<i>Jewelry Artist</i> Podcast: Todd Reed’s Diamond Jewelry

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Think diamonds and you might imagine symmetrically cut colorless stones that throw sparks of colorful light. Think jewelry artist Todd Reed and those who know his innovative designs picture strangely shaped crystals, often translucent or opaque, in shades of gray or tawny tones. His name is synonymous with the use of both kinds in jewelry, as he often mixes them in pieces that are sensationally different.

ABOVE: Todd Reed’s forged silver, tapered tube and diamond bead brooch appeared as a project in Lapidary Journal Jewelry Artist November 2007; photo: Jim Lawson

Learn About Uncut Diamonds from Award-Winning Jeweler Todd Reed

Todd Reed, photo courtesy of the jewelry artist — Todd Reed, photo courtesy of the artist

Hear about Todd Reed’s fascination with naturally shaped diamond crystals and his approach to designing jewelry with them on the Jewelry Artist podcast here with host Katie Hacker. Learn more below in the Q&A with this talented jeweler based in Boulder, Colorado.

Smooth Start with Rough

One-of-a-kind ring with 10.78 ct rough diamond and white brilliant cut diamonds (0.33 ctw) in 18K yellow gold; ring by and photo courtesy of jewelry artist Todd Reed — One-of-a-kind ring with 10.78 ct rough diamond and white brilliant cut diamonds (0.33 ctw) in 18K yellow gold; ring by and photo courtesy of Todd Reed

In his Jewelry Artist podcast interview, Todd mentions having learned a lot about rough diamonds from Jack Greenspan. Hearing that, I immediately wanted to know more, because I had my introduction to uncut diamond crystals from Jack, too, at one of my very first Tucson shows. A pioneer in creating metal-bonded laps, Jack had worked for Crystallite, makers of lapidary equipment using diamond abrasives. Jack was also one of very few diamond crystal collectors at the time.

One-of-a-kind wide cuff bracelet with fancy cut diamonds (10.37 ctw), raw diamond cube (0.01 ct) in 18K yellow gold and sterling silver with patina; cuff by and photo courtesy of jewelry artist Todd Reed — One-of-a-kind wide cuff bracelet with fancy cut diamonds (10.37 ctw), raw diamond cube (0.01 ct) in 18K yellow gold and sterling silver with patina; cuff by and photo courtesy of Todd Reed

MERLE WHITE: Tell us about your first exposure to diamond crystals and your experience with Jack Greenspan.

TODD REED: I met Jack one day when I picked a hitchhiker up and dropped him at Jack’s place outside of Aspen. That may have been 1994, I don’t remember exactly. We met and got on immediately, and he loved to show things in a slow and excited fashion. He would watch your face rather than the stone to see your reaction, his eyes wide each time with excitement. Colored stones, rough and diamonds, the diamonds and stories of them seamed endless. I loved seeing him and [his wife] Elaine in Tucson and learning. He was encouraging of my work and I set up a booth near theirs.

Bar earrings with white brilliant cut diamonds (0.78 ctw) and raw cubes (5.06 ctw) in 18K yellow gold; earrings by and photo courtesy of Todd Reed

Colorado Diamonds

MW: Your own state of Colorado made quite a splash with the discovery of small quantities of gem-quality diamonds at one point. Do you get requests for them from local customers?

TODD: I don’t get many requests for Colorado diamonds anymore. I have a selection of nice diamonds, and back years ago they did get requested quite a bit.

Todd makes more than jewelry with diamonds, such as this hand-raised, footed bowl with white brilliant cut diamonds (0.95 ctw) set around the edge, in sterling silver with patina; photo courtesy Todd Reed

MW: What are they like to work with? Have you been to a source?

TODD: The diamonds were beautiful and colorless as well as colored. I had a good relationship at the time with Jim Miller, who mined the Kelsey Lakes site in the ‘80s, but I have never been there.

Todd Reed’s pin with rose cut diamonds (11.23 ctw) and raw diamond cubes (2.57 ctw) in 18K yellow gold and sterling silver with patina. The piece is one of a kind; photo courtesy Todd Reed

Jewelry Artist Beginnings

MW: How do you get started on a design, and how do you work things out?

Pendant necklace with silver brilliants (12.3 ctw), white brilliants (0.28 ctw), black brilliants 92.33 ctw), 18K yellow gold and sterling silver; necklace by and photo courtesy of Todd Reed

TODD: I start a custom piece with getting as much information from the client as I can about the intention of the piece. I then start drawing with my desires and customer intention to come up with a range of ideas that capture both of these. I hope the client will like one enough to move forward. Then I put a price on a piece, get a deposit, and get the idea in the shop to build.