Jewelry Artist Podcast: Talking Turquoise with Pete Leyba

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Always in style, a birthstone for December, and a go-anywhere kind of gem, turquoise is instantly recognizable, yet as varied as snowflakes falling from the sky. Pete Leyba has been surrounded by turquoise and the jewelry business all his life. He is the expert in this week’s Jewelry Artist podcast episode.

ABOVE: Detail from an extra-large, green turquoise and sterling silver collar by Billy the Kid. You could spot this piece from across the tent at the 2020 Tucson shows | Photo: Terri Haag

Hear Pete Leyba Talking Turquoise on Jewelry Artist Podcast

Join host Katie Hacker and veteran jewelry and turquoise dealer Pete Leyba for this insider’s perspective on the turquoise trade. Listen below and read on for some basics and dynamite images.

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Turquoise Far and Near

Turquoise has been found in many parts of the world and used by such ancient and faraway civilizations as the Egyptians and Tibetans. In the U.S. today, we think immediately of Native American jewelry, whose designs have inspired a variety of Southwest looks.

What’s in a Name?

We think of “turquoise” not just as the name of a gemstone but of certain shades of blue. Like many stones, turquoise owes its color to its chemical composition. For the distinctive blues of turquoise, it’s the copper this stone contains. Other elements sometimes present can push the shade of blue more toward green, and some can push that toward yellow.

Patterns, Too

Commonly called matrix or spiderwebbing, lines of black, brown, or tan give many turquoise stones their distinctive looks. For some people, an unbroken sky blue is the best material. For many other fans, the spiderwebbing is what makes turquoise a favorite gem for jewelry designs.

A Little TLC Goes a Long Way

At 5-6 on the Mohs Scale of Hardness, turquoise isn’t as hard as quartz, nor is it as tough. Quartz is the standard for rings, the kind of jewelry that takes the most abuse when worn. Because it’s a bit fragile to begin with and matrix can make stones more fragile, turquoise is often stabilized to make it more durable. Turquoise is also porous, so you want to keep it away from solutions it could absorb, including soap or lotion. These are all reasons to set this stone with a bezel or other protection, especially if it’s not in earrings, neckpieces, or other jewelry subject to little wear and tear.

Even so, set and worn with care, turquoise can be used in more exposed jewelry items. It is a favorite for rings and bracelets, too. Just don’t wear these pieces when you’re out gardening or at the sink scrubbing pots and pans. Save this kind of jewelry for gentler activities, and it will reward you with years of pleasure and compliments.

Merle White is Editor-in-Chief of Lapidary Journal Jewelry Artist.

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Turquoise in Lapidary Journal Jewelry Artist: