Glossary

Welcome to the Interweave Knitting Terms and Glossary! Our knitting experts do an excellent job at keeping this must-read glossary up-to-date with the latest knitting terms and abbreviations. From the applied I-cord to the whipstitch, our complete knitting glossary will help you master all of the latest and most common knitting terms like a pro. Not only do these knitting definitions help you understand the meaning of knitting terms, but they also provide instructions for how to master new stitches and techniques that help you create wonderful new knitting projects that you’ll be proud to share.

We also enhanced the Interweave Knitting Terms and Glossary with excellent images, diagrams and videos so that you can see first-hand just how to learn the most popular knitting stitches and styles. As your resource for all things knitting-related, we’re happy to help you improve your skills or start from scratch. These knitting terms are excellent for those who are experts in the field and want to grow their knowledge base as well as knitters who are brand-new to fiber arts.

If there are knitting terms that you think should be added to our glossary, please contact us! Click on one of the links below to expand that section of the knitting terms.

Please see our Knitting Abbreviation List for standard knitting abbreviations.

See also:

Interweave Knitting Glossary
Interweave Crochet Glossary

A

Adding New Yarn

Many projects require more than one color of yarn or more than one skein or ball of yarn to complete.

It is best to add new yarn at the beginning of a row so the joining is not visible in the middle of your knitting. To join yarn at the beginning of a row, simply drop the old yarn and pick up the new yarn and continue knitting using the new yarn.

If you are working in the round, try to change yarns at the beginning of a new round. After you have completed your project, weave the ends through the stitches on the wrong side of the work.

B

Knit one stitch, *knit one stitch, insert the left needle into the second stitch on the right needle (Figure 1), pass this stitch over the first stitch and off the needle (Figure 2)—one stitch remains on the right needle and one stitch has been bound off. Repeat from * until the last stitch has been bound off. Break the yarn and pull the cut end through the last stitch to secure it (Figure 3).

Figure 1

Figure 2

Figure 3

A bobble is made by increasing several stitches in one stitch, then working back and forth on just those stitches for a few rows, then decreasing to one stitch. This creates a decorative bump in the fabric. Here is one method:

(K1, yo, k1, yo, k1) into same st—5 sts (Figure 1), turn; p5 (Figure 2), turn; k5 (Figure 3), turn; p2tog, p1, p2tog—3 sts rem (Figure 4), turn; sl 2 as if to k2tog, k1, pass 2 sl sts over—1 st rem (Figure 5).

How to Knit a Bobble - Figure 1
Figure 1

How to Knit a Bobble - Figure 2
Figure 2

How to Knit a Bobble - Figure 3
Figure 3

How to Knit a Bobble - Figure 4
Figure 4

How to Knit a Bobble - Figure 5
Figure 5

C

A traditional cable stitch is formed on an even number of stitches (although some cables are worked over an uneven number). Half of the stitches are slipped onto a cable needle. If the cable is to cross to the right, the cable needle is placed at the back of your knitting. If the cable is to cross to the left, the cable needle is placed at the front. Knit the second half of the stitches and then knit the stitches on the cable needle, taking care not to twist them.

3/3 Right Cross (uses 6 stitches)

Slip 3 sts onto the cable needle and hold in back of the work, k3 from the left needle (Figure 1), then k3 from the cable needle.

Figure 1

3/3 Left Cross (uses 6 stitches)

Slip 3 sts onto the cable needle and hold in front of the work, k3 from the left needle (Figure 2), then k3 from the cable needle.

Figure 2

Insert the crochet hook into a bound-off stitch and pull up a loop (Figure 1). *Insert the crochet hook into the next bound-off stitch, yarn over and draw a loop through the stitch and the loop on the hook (Figure 2). Repeat from * as needed. The completed edging results in a chain on the surface of the knitting (Figure 3).

Crochet Slip-Stitch Edging - Figure 1
Figure 1

Crochet Slip-Stitch Edging - Figure 2
Figure 2

Crochet Slip-Stitch Edging - Figure 3
Figure 3

G

Garter Stitch

When working back and forth, garter stitch is created by knitting every row. The same effect can be achieved by purling every row. If working in rounds, garter stitch is worked by alternating a round of knit stitches with a round of purl stitches. Garter stitch is reversible because it looks the same on both sides. Because the purl ridges occur every other row, it is easy to count rows by twos by counting just the purl ridges.

K

K1, P1 Rib

A rib pattern is created by combining knit and purl stitches. The most common combination is K1, P1 rib, but any combination of knit and purl stitches is possible, including K2, P2 rib or even K3, P1 rib. What’s important to remember when you’re working a rib pattern is to bring the yarn to the back of the work when knitting a stitch and bring the yarn to the front of the work when purling a stitch, making sure to bring the yarn between the needles, not over the right needle. Once the sequence of knit and purl stitches is established on the first row, it is easy to maintain the pattern by working the stitches as they appear on the needle (knitting the stitches that look like knit stitches and purling the stitches that look like purl stitches), rather than referring to the pattern instructions.

Insert the right needle from front to back into the next two stitches on the left needle (Figure 1) and knit them together. The result is a right-slanting single decrease (Figure 2).

How to knit two together (K2tog) - figure 1
Figure 1

How to knit two together (K2tog) - figure 2
Figure 2

This increase is created by knitting into the front and back of a stitch. It is sometimes known as a “bar increase” because of the bump that follows the knit stitch.

Knit a stitch but leave the old stitch on the left needle (Figure 1). Bring the right needle to the back of the work and knit the same stitch through the back loop (Figure 2). Drop the stitch off the left needle (Figure 3).

Knit into Front and Back (k1f&b) - Figure 1
Figure 1

Knit into Front and Back (k1f&b) - Figure 2
Figure 2

Knit into Front and Back (k1f&b) - Figure 3
Figure 3

Hold the needle with the stitches in your left hand and the empty needle in your right hand. The working yarn can be held either in the right hand or the left hand, whichever is most comfortable. With the yarn in back of the needles, insert the right needle into the first stitch on the left needle from front to back (Figure 1), making sure the right needle is under the left needle. Bring the yarn under, then over the right needle from left to right (Figure 2). Bring the right needle with the loop of yarn toward you and through the stitch on the left needle (Figure 3), then drop the old stitch off the left needle (Figure 4).

Knit stitch - figure 1
Figure 1

Knit stitch - figure 2
Figure 2

Knit stitch - figure 3
Figure 3

Knit stitch - figure 4
Figure 4

Place slipknot on left needle if there are no established stitches. *With right needle, knit into first stitch (or slipknot) on left needle (Figure 1) …and place new stitch onto left needle (Figure 2). Repeat from *, always knitting into last stitch made.

Figure 1

Figure 2

L

Leaving a long tail (about 1–2″ [2.5– 5 cm] for each stitch to be cast on), make a slipknot and place it onto the right needle. Place the thumb and index finger of your left hand between the yarn strands so that the working yarn (shown in gray) is around your index finger and the tail end is around your thumb. Secure the ends with your other fingers and hold your palm upwards, making a V of yarn (Figure 1). *Beginning at the base of your thumb, slide the needle up through the loop on the thumb (Figure 2), then over and under the strand on your index finger (Figure 3), and draw the strand through the loop on your thumb (Figure 4). Drop the loop off your thumb, place your thumb back in the V configuration, and tighten the resulting stitch on the needle. Repeat from * as needed for desired number of stitches. The resulting cast-on looks like a backward loop cast-on with one knit row (Figure 5).

Long-Tail Cast-On - figure 1
Figure 1

Long-Tail Cast-On - figure 2
Figure 2

Long-Tail Cast-On - figure 3
Figure 3

Long-Tail Cast-On - figure 4
Figure 4

Long-Tail Cast-On - figure 5
Figure 5

Right-slanting loop CO (also: Backward-loop CO): *Loop working yarn as shown and place it on needle backward (with right leg of loop in back of needle). Repeat from *. See Figure 1

Left-slanting loop CO: *Loop working yarn as shown and place it on needle so right leg of loop is in front of needle. Repeat from *. See Figure 2

Figure 1

Figure 2

M

Click any of the figures below to open them to a larger size.

Make 1 Right (M1R)

Insert the left needle from back to front under the strand between the last stitch worked and the first stitch on the left needle (Figure 1). Knit the strand through the front loop to twist it (Figure 2).

If the instructions say “M1,” use Make 1 knit either direction.

Make 1 Right Slant (M1R) - figure 1

Make 1 Right Slant (M1R) - figure 2

Make 1 Left (M1L)

Insert the left needle from front to back under the strand between the last stitch worked and the first stitch on the left needle (Figure 1). Knit the strand through the back loop to twist it (Figure 2).

If the instructions say “M1,” use Make 1 knit either direction.

Make 1 Left Slant (M1L) - figure 1

Make 1 Left Slant (M1L) - figure 2

Make 1 Right Purl (M1RP)

Insert the left needle from back to front under the strand between the last stitch worked and the first stitch on the left needle (Figure 1). Purl the strand through the front loop to twist it (Figure 2).

Make 1 Right Purl (M1RP) - Figure 1

Make 1 Right Purl (M1RP) - Figure 2

Make 1 Left Purl (M1LP)

Insert the left needle from front to back under the strand between the last stitch worked and the first stitch on the left needle (Figure 1). Purl the strand through the back loop to twist it (Figure 2).

Make 1 Left Purl (M1LP) - Figure 1

Make 1 Left Purl (M1LP) - Figure 2

A mattress-stitch seam joins the vertical edges of two pieces of knitting. With the right side of the knitting facing, use a threaded tapestry needle to join the corners of the two pieces, then pick up one bar between the first two stitches on one piece (Figure 1). Next, pick up the corresponding bar plus the bar above it on the other piece (Figure 2). *Pick up the next two bars on the first piece (Figure 3), then the next two bars on the second piece. Repeat from * to the end of the seam, sometimes picking up one bar if pieces are getting out of alignment (Figure 4). Finish by picking up the last bar (or pair of bars) at the top of the first piece. As you go, tighten the seam stitches to close up the gap between pieces.

How to do the Mattress Stitch - Figure 1
Figure 1

How to do the Mattress Stitch - Figure 2
Figure 2

How to do the Mattress Stitch - Figure 3
Figure 3

How to do the Mattress Stitch - Figure 4
Figure 4

P

With the yarn in front, insert the right needle from back to front into the next two stitches on the left needle (Figure 1) and purl them together. The result is a right slanting single decrease (Figure 2). On the other side of the fabric, a p2tog looks like a k2tog.

How to do P2tog - Figure 1
Figure 1

How to do P2tog - Figure 2
Figure 2

Pick Up and Knit Stitches Along a Horizontal Edge
With the right side of the work facing, *insert the knitting needle into the center of a stitch under the bound-off edge (Figure 1). Wrap the yarn as if to knit and pull the new stitch through. Repeat from * for each picked-up stitch.

Pick Up and Knit Stitches Along a Vertical Edge
With the right side of the work facing, insert the knitting needle from the front to the back between the first two stitches at the selvedge edge of the piece (Figure 2). Wrap the yarn as if to knit and pull the new stitch through. A general rule for picking up stitches along a vertical edge on stockinette stitch is to pick up three stitches for every four rows.

How to Pick Up and Knit Stitches - Figure 1
Figure 1

How to Pick Up and Knit Stitches - Figure 2
Figure 2

To make a pom-pom, cut two cardboard circles the desired diameter of the pom-pom. Cut a hole in the center of each circle. Thread a tapestry needle with yarn and wrap the yarn around both cardboard circles (Figure 1). Continue wrapping until the cardboard circle is completely covered and the center hole is filled in (Figure 2). With sharp scissors, cut around the edge of the pom-pom (Figure 3). Pull the two layers of cardboard apart and insert a doubled strand of yarn between the layers, wrap the yarn around the center of the pom-pom a few times and tie tightly (Figure 4), leaving long ends for attaching the pompom. Remove the cardboard, fluff the pom-pom and trim (Figure 5).

Figure 1

Figure 2

Figure 3

Figure 4

Figure 5

Insert the right needle from left to right into the back of the stitch on the left needle to twist it (Figure 1) and purl the twisted stitch (Figure 2).

Purl 1 Through Back Loop (tbl) - Figure 1
Figure 1

Purl 1 Through Back Loop (tbl) - Figure 2
Figure 2

Hold the needle with the stitches in your left hand and the empty needle in your right hand. The working yarn can be held either in the right hand or the left hand, whichever is most comfortable. With the yarn in front of the needles, insert the right needle into the first stitch on the left needle from back to front (Figure 1). Bring the yarn over the right needle from right to left (Figure 2). Bring the right needle with the loop of yarn away from you and back through the stitch on the left needle (Figure 3), then drop the old stitch off the left needle (Figure 4).

How to do the Purl Stitch - Figure 1
Figure 1

How to do the Purl Stitch - Figure 2
Figure 2

How to do the Purl Stitch - Figure 3
Figure 3

How to do the Purl Stitch - Figure 4
Figure 4

R

Reverse Stockinette Stitch

Reverse stockinette stitch is created by purling on right-side rows and knitting on wrong-side rows (or by purling every round if working circularly).

S

Slip two stitches as if to knit them together (Figure 1), knit the next stitch (Figure 2), insert the left needle from left to right into the two slipped stitches and pass them over the knit stitch. The result is a centered double decrease (Figure 3).

S2kp2 - Figure 1
Figure 1

S2kp2 - Figure 2
Figure 2

S2kp2 - Figure 3
Figure 3

Seed Stitch

Seed stitch is created by alternating knit and purl stitches on every row. The first row is worked the same as for K1, P1 rib, but then subsequent rows are worked by knitting the stitches that look like purl stitches and purling the stitches that look like knit stitches.

Create a pretzel shape with yarn end. Insert needle from right to left under internal bar leading to yarn ball (Figure 1), pull up loop on needle and tighten knot (Figure 2).

Figure 1

Figure 2

With the yarn in back, slip one stitch knitwise, then slip another stitch knitwise (Figure 1). Insert the left needle into the front of these two slipped stitches and knit them together through the back loops (Figure 2). The result is a left-slanting single decrease (Figure 3).

How to do SSK - Figure 1
Figure 1

How to do SSK - Figure 2
Figure 2

How to do SSK - Figure 3
Figure 3

With the yarn in front, slip one stitch knitwise, then slip another stitch knitwise (Figure 1). Return the two slipped stitches to the left needle with the new orientations, then insert the right needle from left to right into the backs of these stitches (Figure 2) and purl them together through the back loops (Figure 3). The result is a left-slanting single decrease (Figure 4).

Ssp - Figure 1
Figure 1

Ssp - Figure 2
Figure 2

Ssp - Figure 3
Figure 3

Stockinette Stitch

Stockinette stitch is created by knitting on right-side rows and purling on wrong-side rows (or by knitting every round if working circularly).

T

Cut pieces of cardboard about 3″ (7.5 cm) wide and as tall as you want your finished tassel to be. Wind a strand of yarn around the cardboard about 20 times. Cut an 18″ (45.5 cm) length of yarn and insert it under all of the strands at the top of the cardboard (Figure 1); pull up tightly and tie securely. Leave long enough yarn ends to attach the tassel. Cut the yarn at the opposite end of the cardboard (Figure 2) and then remove the cardboard. Wrap another length of yarn tightly around the tassel, 1/2″ (1.25 cm) below the top (Figure 3) and tie securely. Trim the ends of the tassel.

How to make a tassel - Figure 1
Figure 1

How to make a tassel - Figure 2
Figure 2

How to make a tassel - Figure 3
Figure 3

Three-Needle Bind-Off
Place the stitches to be joined onto two separate needles. Hold them with the right sides of the knitting facing together and the wrong sides facing out (Figure 1). Insert a third needle into the first stitch on each of the other two needles and knit them together (Figure 2). *Knit the next stitch on each needle together in the same way—two stitches are on the right needle. Pass the second stitch on the right needle over the first stitch (Figure 3). Repeat from * until no stitches remain on the first two needles. Fasten off the last stitch.

How to do the Three-Needle Bind-Off - Figure 1
Figure 1

How to do the Three-Needle Bind-Off - Figure 2
Figure 2

How to do the Three-Needle Bind-Off - Figure 3
Figure 3

Three-Needle Bind-Off (Ridge Version)
Place the stitches to be joined onto two separate needles. Hold the needles parallel with the wrong sides of the knitting facing together and the right sides facing out (Figure 1). Work as for regular three-needle bind-off as follows: Insert a third needle into the first stitch on each of the other two needles and knit them together. *Knit the next stitch on each needle the same way. Pass the second stitch from the tip of the right needle over the first stitch. Repeat from the * until one stitch remains on the third needle (and the other two needles are empty). Cut the yarn and pull the tail through the last stitch. The ridge will appear on the right side of the work (Figure 2).

Three-Needle Bind-Off (Ridge Version) - figure 1
Figure 1

Three-Needle Bind-Off (Ridge Version) - Figure 2
Figure 2

W

When weaving ends into the wrong side of knitted fabric, it is important to weave them in so they are both secure and invisible. Weave in the ends before blocking the piece, then trim the ends to about 1⁄8″ after blocking.

One weaving method that works particularly well on stockinette stitch and garter stitch is to use duplicate stitch. For example, on the wrong side of stockinette stitch, follow the path of about three or four purl stitches (Figure 1). On the wrong side of garter stitch, work as for stockinette stitch, but span two rows for each woven stitch (Figure 2).

To weave in ends on a rib pattern, weave the end first up the right leg of a knit rib (Figure 3), then insert the tapestry needle under both legs of a stitch at the top of the rib column (Figure 4), then weave the yarn down through the left leg of the same knit column (Figure 5).

Weaving in Ends - Figure 1
Figure 1

Weaving in Ends - Figure 2
Figure 2

Weaving in Ends - Figure 3
Figure 3

Weaving in Ends - Figure 4
Figure 4

Weaving in Ends - Figure 5
Figure 5

Y

A yarnover is a stitch made by laying the yarn over the right needle as you work. On the return row, the loop created by the yarnover is worked as you would any other stitch; once worked, it leaves a small opening in the knitting. Each yarnover is an increase of one stitch. In lace knitting, every yarnover is paired with a decrease so that the stitch count remains constant. The decrease may immediately precede or follow the yarnover, appear several stitches away from the yarnover in the same row, or even be worked on an earlier or later row.

The strand that travels over the top of the needle is the yarnover, and it counts as one stitch. Note that the stitch after the yarnover shouldn’t be counted as part of the yarnover.

For all these examples except the alternative wrapping method, bring the yarn between the needles to the front of the work if it is not already there, then bring the yarn over the right needle to the back (this is the yarnover), then, either leave the yarn at the back or bring the yarn between the needles to the front as necessary to work the next stitch.

YARNOVER BETWEEN A KNIT STITCH AND A KNIT STITCH
(WORKING YARN BEGINS IN BACK)
After knitting the stitch before the yarnover, bring the yarn forward between the needles. Then bring the yarn up and over the right needle to the back of the work again, ready to knit the next stitch (Figure 1).

How to do a yarnover - figure 1
Figure 1

YARNOVER BETWEEN A KNIT STITCH AND A PURL STITCH
(WORKING YARN BEGINS IN BACK)
Bring the yarn to the front of the work between the needles. Then bring the yarn over the right needle to the back, then between the needles again to the front, ready to purl the next stitch (Figure 2).

Because the yarnover between a knit stitch and a purl stitch uses more yarn than a yarnover between a knit stitch and a knit stitch, the yarnover holes will be larger. If both types of yarnover will be used in a project, the size differences may be noticeable. The size of the yarnover between a knit stitch and a purl stitch can be adjusted by wrapping the yarn differently to make the yarnover holes smaller, as shown below:

How to do a yarnover - figure 2
Figure 2

YARNOVER BETWEEN A KNIT STITCH AND A PURL STITCH
(ALTERNATIVE WRAPPING METHOD)
Bring the yarn from the back to the front of the work over the right needle (Figure 2a) ready to purl the next stitch. On the next row, it will be necessary to work into the back loop of the yarnover so it won’t be twisted.

How to do a yarnover - figure 2a
Figure 2a

YARNOVER BETWEEN A PURL STITCH AND A KNIT STITCH
(WORKING YARN BEGINS IN FRONT)
Bring the yarn over the right needle to the back (Figure 3), ready to knit the next stitch.

How to do a yarnover - figure 3
Figure 3

YARNOVER BETWEEN A PURL STITCH AND A PURL STITCH
(WORKING YARN BEGINS IN FRONT)
Bring the yarn over the right needle to the back, then between the needles to the front, ready to purl the next stitch (Figure 4).

How to do a yarnover - figure 4
Figure 4

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