Laverne Waddington: Handspun Yarn and Backstrap Weaving
Devin Helmen says, “I have always been a spinner, first and foremost—only afterwards a knitter and later a weaver.” Devin’s weaving journey has always been handspun focused. In the Summer 2019 issue of Spin Off, Devin asked three weavers about their own handspun, handwoven work.
“I bought a big sack of llama fiber from a woman while I was wandering the back roads in highland Bolivia (affiliate link) and learning more about spinning back in 2002. The llama was dry, brittle, filthy stuff, but I didn’t know any better. It was a struggle to clean and prepare and gave me asthma. I spun and plied it and began weaving. Then I dyed some of it with cochineal and spearmint leaves and wove some more. It was high-energy, gnarly stuff. But I just loved the fact that the fiber from that rough old llama living in those tough, dusty conditions up in the highlands became yarn and then some pretty decent cloth.
“I have found that warp-faced weaving is extremely flattering for one’s handspun yarn. I look at things that I have woven with my handspun llama and alpaca fiber and can’t believe that the yarn came from my hands. When the threads are placed as close together as they are in warp-faced textiles, differences in girth and twist are no longer apparent; everything looks wonderfully even.
“Traditional warp-faced woven textiles often have a high-twist warp. However, I soon found that yarn does not need to be ‘over-twisted’ to stand up to the abrasion of warp-faced weaving. The first time I was given some beautifully prepared alpaca to spin, it slipped through my fingers with buttery smoothness—almost like cheating after that tough llama! I felt it would be a crime to put hard twist into the yarn, so I spun it as a softer, balanced yarn. You do need to know how to operate a backstrap loom well to deal with this. The warp needs to be advanced as often as possible so that the heddles and rods are not sitting on any one spot for too long. You need to use the gentlest possible method to raise the heddles and open sheds. Also, you need to get used to the fact that sheds will not open cleanly; extra-gentle effort is needed to clear them.
“I haven’t gone much further with spinning wool or other fibers for my weaving. The process is beautiful, but I never got the same feeling of connection to this land I live in by using beautifully cleaned and prepared fiber that had been given to me by friends or that I have bought at yarn stores or fiber fests. I think that connection is what using handspun brought to my weaving.”
Laverne goes on to discuss her developing interest in handspun cotton singles. Just look at this stunning cloth! Read more from Laverne, Sara Lamb, and Kristin Merritt in Devin Helmen’s article, “Honest Cloth: Spinners on Weaving with Handspun.”
Featured Image: Devin Helmen’s goose-eye twill woven with handspun yarn. Photo by Matt Graves
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