Combing Wool with Milk (yes, it’s a thing)

This morning I wandered out of my office and said to Elizabeth, “We have a huge hole in our coverage! We’ve never published anything on combing milk.”

She looked at me like I was crazy (a daily occurrence) and said, “Milk?” Yes, I said—the elixir that spinners use when combing wool to combat static and tame frizz. Combing milk.

I scoured our indexes and The Alden Amos Big Book of Handspinning and could not find a single entry for that phrase, although I’ve heard it several times. Alden mentions that wool needs to be lubricated for combing, either traditionally with olive oil or with an emulsion of water and oil sprayed from a bottle. I searched a bit further and learned that in fact Spin Off has covered various wool lubricants throughout the years, just not called “combing milk.”

Here’s a partial rundown:

Robin Russo

Robin Russo keeps a spray bottle handy when combing wool. Photo by Joe Coca

Robin Russo keeps a spray bottle handy when combing wool. Photo by Joe Coca

The combing maven calls it “combing oil” in her article in Spin Off Summer 2004.

It would be very frustrating and counterproductive to try to comb fibers without moisture. The static created during combing makes fibers uncontrollable. You can spritz fibers with water or olive oil or you can use a combing oil which combines oil and water. Although I no longer remember the origin of the following recipe, I find it works very well.

1 ounce rubbing alcohol
2 lecithin capsules
3 ounces water
4 ounces olive oil or other vegetable oil

I keep this liquid in a fine spritzer and shake it before using. It may not feel right to put oil back on wool because you go to great lengths to remove lanolin, but oil is necessary to control the static. I do not comb fibers and set them aside to be spun at a later date. I comb one evening and spin the next and continue in that manner until I am ready to use the wool in a project.

I always wash yarns after spinning as part of finishing the skein, and the combing oil is removed at that stage. Even if fiber sits around for a while before it is washed, it will not become tacky (stiff and sticky) the way it does before lanolin is removed.

9 Spinning Gurus

In a “round-table discussion” in Spin Off Summer 1991, coordinator Rita Buchanan posed the question:

Peter Teal recommends treating wool with a mixture of olive oil and water before combing it, to reduce static and friction. Do you do that?
Priscilla Gibson-Roberts:
I have. I’ve tried everything, but I don’t like adding something that I just have to clean out again. Now I just use warm water to control static. I try not to strip out all the grease when I wash a fleece, even though sometimes it gets sticky again and I have to rewash it. I try to only clean what I’m going to use in six weeks or so. That way I can take advantage of the natural oils. I don’t like to work with real dry wool, or to re-oil dry wool.
Lee Raven:
I’ve tried everything, too, but don’t use any treatment now. I’m afraid that oil or other additives might make a gummy build-up on the tines that I’d have to clean off later. I’m very pleased with the results I get by combing wool that’s perfectly clean but still slightly damp. I comb the wool within a few hours of washing it.
Sharron Reese:
I do use oil. I weigh the wool and use the formulas given in Teal’s book [Hand Woolcombing and Spinning]. I want each batch to handle the same. The olive oil can get tacky if you let the combed wool sit too long; if that happens, I put the wool (in a plastic bag) near the heat vent and it loosens up again. Usually I don’t comb more than I’ll spin in a week or so.
Paula Shull:
I don’t add oil. Sometimes I mix 1/4 cup of fabric softener per quart of water in a spray bottle, and spray a real fine mist up in the air and let it fall like rain on the fibers. This works to control static on silk and Merino.
Bill Benham:
If the humidity is low, I use plain water to control static. I’m planning to do some experimenting with machinist’s cutting oil. I know it’s safe to work with, and I think it might improve the handling.
Iris Dozer:
It’s always dry here, and static is a problem, so I’ve run the gamut of oils and treatments. What’s important is to pay attention to the fleece, and to know why you’re doing what you’re doing. Sometimes there’s enough oil left in the fleece after washing that it’s just right to work with. I’ve used olive oil and other oils, and I tried an after-shampoo hair conditioner that’s marketed to African-Americans—it works great and smells good, but it’s expensive. Now I use a Shell product called Dromus B.—it’s a diamond-cutter’s oil that’s water-soluble. It works fine, but to get any, I had to buy a five-gallon drum, so now I have a lifetime supply.
Patricia Emerick:
Static isn’t much of a problem here, but if I’m working with very fine wool, I might use a drop of oil per lock. Usually, I just spritz with water.
Noel Thurner:
A spritzing with water works for me, too. Sometimes I use a technique I learned in Scandinavia: I wrap the wool in a warm damp towel for half an hour or so. The warmth softens the fibers, especially the coarser guard hairs, and makes them behave better. Also, the warmth softens whatever natural oils are left in the fibers after a gentle washing.

Norman Kennedy

And lest you think it’s only for combing wool, Norman Kennedy always brings a bottle of baby oil when he cards wool. In his video From Wool to Waulking, Norman tells the (slightly terrifying) story of all the lubricants he’s used when carding wool.


Feature Image: Photos courtesy of Getty Images.

Learn more about combing wool with these resources!



  1. Peggy O at 5:47 am April 26, 2017

    Much appreciated roundtable discussion. Many thanks.

  2. Sondra G at 5:54 am April 26, 2017

    I’ve read many comments by spinners who fear their combs or carders becoming sticky from using any oil mixtures on the wool. I have used a cotton ball with rubbing alcohol to easily clean the tines of my Valkyrie combs, and have only needed to do that once. A few years ago, I borrowed a friends 2 sets of older hand cards that she’d recently purchased. The cloth and tines were in very good condition, but they were as sticky as all get out. I happened to be at my cabin in cool weather, so I laid the carders very near the wood stove till they were nice and warm, and then repeatedly carded some junky wool I had already planned to discard. That wool became discolored and grubby looking, and each successive batch was cleaner and cleaner. Those tines became so nice and clean, and just whizzed through my lovely clean wool afterward.

  3. Collette B at 8:13 am April 26, 2017

    Since wool is hair, and when studying under Jean Slenker she always recommended baby shampoo for cleaning-unless really horridly full of extra mud & lanolin, I always figured baby oil should be best option. 1 part baby oil to 9 parts water in a sprayer, shake, and you’re good to go. Later I found out my relatives (as well as my grandmother, her siblings, & parents) used same when dealing with wool, flax, or cotton when spinning, or even dressing their home-built loom. With my aunts, uncles, great-grandparents, and my grandmother it was back in the day before I was even a thought and my relatives in E. Europe still to this day.

  4. Vicki A at 9:20 am April 26, 2017

    So . . . nothing about milk? (I would think it could sour.)

  5. Maya T at 11:13 am April 26, 2017

    I’ve found the best product to use is aloe vera (the liquid form that comes in a spray bottle). It’s a natural humectant that adds moisture, but is completely water-soluble and doesn’t leave a gummy or tacky feel. I also use it on my hair if it gets static from dry air.

  6. Jeremy M at 6:04 am December 5, 2018

    As a beginner, I discovered the hard way the need to improve fibre easing, so this is lesson #1. I used to work with a major buyer of machine oils, and Mrs Dozer’s narrative of having to buy a massive amount didn’t ring true – I find it available on EBay in a 1-ltr bottle size, at a far more reasonable cost – it dilutes 1:20 with water in normal use, too, so it’s still quite a lot, but not as bad as it might have been (it does come in 200ltr drum size, iirc…)

  7. Jeremy M at 6:08 am December 5, 2018

    Milk has long been used in engineering as a general term for any white lubricant – it’s an abbreviation of “the milk of human kindness” as something which made the very religious Victorian engineer’s life easier when cutting metals.

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