IWK Fall 2008 Backstage Tweed Jacket

Gallery: Backstage Tweed Jacket by Alina Khasanova

Interweave Knits Fall 2008Notes from Sandi: How much ease is enough for this swingy, beautifully detailed jacket? One way to determine this is to measure a garment you already have that has the fit you’d like this coat to have. Then think of how you want to wear it: Layered, with a sweater or other garments underneath, so it functions as a true outerwear garment? Or more as a fancy “suit jacket,” with just a thin shirt underneath? The former would require more ease, the latter, less. But again, the absolute best guide to fitting a new jacket is to measure what’s already in your closet–provided, of course, that you like the fit!

To help you see how the various amounts of ease work for our Gallery Gals, we included a few extra “playful” shots. Hope this helps!

About the hook-and-eye closures:
This jacket, as designed, is meant to be worn with just a few hooks closed. You can add hook-and-eyes at more frequent intervals or use hook-and-eye tape if you’d like to wear it closed more frequently and eliminate gaping–or leave them out altogether.

As you can see, the same sweater looks very different on different women! We give general suggestions for customization for your inspiration. Only you can choose how you want your sweaters to fit and which customizations will work best for you and your beautiful self!

Some links you  might find helpful:

Measuring yourself and your clothing

About positive and negative ease

Measuring tutorial with photos

 

Backstage Tweed Jacket

Sample garment shown is 36.25″.

Knitting Gallery - Backstage Tweed Jacket Toni
Knitting Gallery - Backstage Tweed Jacket Toni Knitting Gallery - Backstage Tweed Jacket Toni

Toni

Her bust: 33.5″
2.75″ positive ease

The fit is good for a suit-type jacket, but Toni loves to layer it on in the cold months, so she might want to have a bigger size. Would she want the 7.5″ of positive ease that the 41″ would give her? Even for Toni and her layers, that seems like a teensy bit much–6″ would be a better fit, so if there were a 39″ size, that would be great. The hem length seems a little short on Toni, so I’d bring the length down just a bit. Otherwise: I love the sleeve length, the armholes give her plenty of room to move around, and it’s a cute style on her. What about a navy blue for Toni? Pretty.

Knitting Gallery - Backstage Tweed Jacket Kat Knitting Gallery - Backstage Tweed Jacket Kat

Kat

Her bust: 40″
3.75″ negative ease

The sample garment is too small, at least to wear as a jacket. I’d choose the 44″ for Kat so she’d have some room to move around in. I’d also like to see the sleeves be a bit longer, and in the 44″, they are a full inch longer than in the size she’s wearing. Notice that it’s not just the bust area where things are tight–see how it pulls across her upper chest and back? The 44″ would definitely be more comfortable. Another point to note: If she were wearing the proper size, the jacket would be the drapey A-line it was designed to be. Here, it is so tight it conforms to her shape–not that that’s a bad thing, but just something to note.

Knitting Gallery - Backstage Tweed Jacket Debbie
Knitting Gallery - Backstage Tweed Jacket Debbie Knitting Gallery - Backstage Tweed Jacket Debbie

Debbie

Her bust: 34.5″
1.75″ positive ease

I think this is cute on Debbie (but then, what isn’t cute on Debbie?), however, she wouldn’t be able to wear much underneath. The next size up, the 41″, would give her 6.5″ of positive ease, making for a very comfy, loose fit. In the sample garment, you can see that things pull just a bit across Debbie’s upper body–not much, but just a bit, especially when she moves around. (Maybe Debbie ought to stop working out at the gym so much. Those monster muscles of hers won’t fit in the sweaters!) The sleeves are a bit long, so in any size, Debbie would need to shorten them a little, to help her find her fingers when she needs them. The hem length is perfect.

Knitting Gallery - Backstage Tweed Jacket Stefanie

Stefanie

Her bust: 34″
2.25″ positive ease

Take a look at Debbie’s photos, and then look at Stefanie’s. Stefanie has a little more positive ease across the bust than Debbie, but overall, the jacket looks smaller on Stefanie than on Debbie. Stefanie’s shoulders are wider, her torso is longer, and thus her overall proportions are different than Debbie’s. Stefanie could definitely use a larger size–although she’d want to keep the sleeve length pretty much as it is here. Since this is an A-line jacket, it is really important to get a good fit across the shoulders and yoke area, since the entire garment falls (and widens) from there. If you are worried about your fit, again, measure a garment you already have that fits you the way you would like the jacket to fit you (it doesn’t need to be a jacket!). Compare those measurements to the schematics in the pattern, and choose the size that most closely matches your desired measurements.

Knitting Gallery - Backstage Tweed Jacket Erin
Knitting Gallery - Backstage Tweed Jacket Erin Knitting Gallery - Backstage Tweed Jacket Erin

Erin

Her bust: 38″
1.75″ negative ease

For a loose, comfy jacket to be worn as outerwear, Erin could choose the 44″ and be quite happy. For a closer-fitting “suit jacket” look, she could choose the 41″. The sleeves need to be longer, as does the hem. Pretty color on her, though!

Knitting Gallery - Backstage Tweed Jacket Sandi Knitting Gallery - Backstage Tweed Jacket Sandi

Sandi

Her bust: 40″
3.75″ negative ease

The shoulders pulled on this a lot for me, so I couldn’t move around very well. (Who knew I was such a linebacker?) To knit this for myself, I would choose the 44″ for a close “suit jacket” fit and the 47.75″ for a looser “outerwear” fit. I loved the sleeve length, but I think the hem needs to be lower.

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