IWK Fall 2008 Afterthoughts Darts Cardi

Gallery: Afterthoughts Darts Cardi by Theresa Schabes

Interweave Knits Fall 2008As you can see, the same sweater looks very different on different women! We give general suggestions for customization for your inspiration. Only you can choose how you want your sweaters to fit and which customizations will work best for you and your beautiful self!

Some links you  might find helpful:

Measuring yourself and your clothing

About positive and negative ease

Measuring tutorial with photos


Afterthought Darts Cardi

Sample garment measures 34.5" at bust and is shown in the magazine with about 3" of positive ease

Knitting Gallery - Little Blue Sweater Sandi   Knitting Gallery - Little Blue Sweater Sandi


Her bust: 33.5"
1" positive ease

Size: Picture this in sky blue on Toni, or rose pink. Awesome. She could start out with about 10% more stitches at the hem to give her hips some more room, and then decrease down around her waist to get the fit right up top. Darts: I'd move them up about an inch (start an inch earlier and end an inch later) to better emphasize her waist. In other words: Center the darts vertically around her natural waistline. Other stuff: Hem needs to come up about two inches so it sits right at the widest part of her hips. Sleeves are cozy and fine!

Knitting Gallery - Afterthought Darts Cardi Kat   Knitting Gallery - Afterthought Darts Cardi Kat


Her bust: 40"
5.5" negative ease

Size: If Kat wanted a close-fitting top designed to be worn on its own, without anything thickish underneath, this would be stellar. However, as a cardigan-to-go-over-other-stuff, it really is too small–so, depending on the look Kat wanted, she could go for negative ease with the 37", or positive ease with the 42". See how the sweater rides up in front, particularly at center front at the bottom of the button band? That effect would be minimized with a larger size, particularly one with positive ease. Darts: Um, rather perfect, methinks. Other stuff: Hem length is perfect. Sleeves are perfect. (I vote for just giving Kat this sweater, what do y'all think?)

Knitting Gallery - Afterthought Darts Cardi Debbie   Knitting Gallery - Afterthought Darts Cardi Debbie


Her bust: 34.5"
Zero ease

Size: This size just barely fits Debbie across the bust, and doesn't fit her at all across the hips. So here's an interesting challenge: How can Debbie get a sweater which will close all the way down, but not be too baggy at the bust? One solution: She could compare her hip size, plus ease, to the finished measurements on the schematic and find a hip measurement that is closer to hers (plus ease). Let's say that Debbie's hips were 39"; to get a nice bit of ease, she could cast on the number of stitches for the 42", and work some decreases at her waist to get to the proper stitch count for the 37" (which would fit her at the bust with a similar amount of ease as at her hips). The decreases would be in the area covered by the darts, so they wouldn't be noticeable. Darts: I think these could be moved up an inch or so–started an inch later and finished an inch later, in other words–in order to match Debbie's own curves–again, centered over her waistline. Other stuff: Hem could be an inch shorter; sleeves ditto.

Knitting Gallery - Afterthought Darts Cardi  Stef   Knitting Gallery - Afterthought Darts Cardi  Stef


Her bust: 34"
0.5" positive ease

Size: Perfect as a stand-alone main garment. If she wants a looser cardigan for layering, she would probably want the next size up (37"). Darts: Beautiful! This is very flattering on Stefanie. Other stuff: The only thing I'm noticing is that the shoulders seem to be falling off Stefanie's shoulders just a bit. She could widen the shoulder area by a half-inch to an inch in order to help things stay on better.

Knitting Gallery - Afterthought Darts Cardi  erin   Knitting Gallery - Afterthought Darts Cardi erin


Her bust: 38"
3.5" negative ease

Size: If Erin wanted this look, instead of a loose-cardigan-look, then I'd say the size was perfect. However, for an actual cardigan-to-wear-over-stuff, she would probably need the 42". But what if that's too loose? Well, this sweater does have DARTS in it, after all…and the darts are worked after the sweater is sewn up and ready to try on! So…she could work up the sweater, sew it together, try it on…and see how much she wanted to take it in. If need be, she could work a couple more darts than called for in the pattern, and scootch all the darts closer together, so the extras would fit. Extra darts = a closer fit. Voila!(Note that the reverse is true: Fewer darts, spaced further apart, equals a looser fit.)

Knitting Gallery - Afterthought Darts Cardi  Sanid   Knitting Gallery - Afterthought Darts Cardi  Sandi


Her bust: 40"
5.5" negative ease

Size: Eek! Tightness. Note the distortion of the stitchwork over The Girls, the gaps in the buttons when buttoned, and the overall appearance of Sandi Holding Her Breath And Turning Blue. To make this sweater with a bit of positive ease, as shown in the magazine, I'd go for the 42" size. Darts: It's really hard to tell if the darts need adjustment, because the sweater is overall too small here. I'm going to guess from how the sweater fits on all the other girls, plus how it fits the magazine model, that I would want to have the darts come up an inch or so higher so that they are centered on my natural waist. Other stuff: I would check the shoulder width in the larger size to make sure it was wide enough to cover my bra straps. The sleeve length is good, but the hemline needs to come up a bit.

Knitting Gallery - Afterthought Darts Cardi  Bertha   Knitting Gallery - Afterthought Darts Cardi  Bertha


Her bust: 34"
0.5" positive ease

Size: I LOVE how this looks on Bertha. I might (might!) have continued the waist darts up another inch or so, to emphasize her long, graceful waist curves, but that's just personal preference.

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