BEGINNER Articles 9 min read

How to Read a Knitting Pattern

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A knitting pattern is a roadmap that can guide you in the process of creating your project — whether it’s an accessory, a sweater, a home-décor item, or a toy. However, if you’re a newer knitter, even a beginner knitting pattern can seem less like a roadmap and more like a collection of strange abbreviations and confusing terms. With a little experience and practice, you’ll be able to read a knitting pattern without any problems!

Patterns are divided into sections that follow a logical order and usually include the following:

  • Level of difficulty/complexity of the project
  • Dimensions of the completed project
  • Materials needed (such as yarn, needles, notions)
  • Gauge of the project
  • Notes that provide information about construction or things to keep in mind as you work the project
  • Stitch patterns, written or charted (or both)
  • Detailed instructions for working the project, beginning at the cast-on and ending with the finishing details
  • For garments, schematics that give an idea of the size and shape of each separate piece of the project and include the measurements of each piece

Here’s a little more information about each of these elements:

Level of Difficulty

This gives you a general idea of how simple or complex the project is to work and how difficult the knitting pattern is to read and follow. The difficulty level is based on various attributes found in the pattern, such as the types of stitches used, the complexity of the shaping, the detail of the instructions, and more.

Our example pattern for learning to read a knitting pattern is the Calcite Pillow from Quick + Easy Knits.

At Interweave, we choose difficulty levels based on the project, rather than on the experience level of the knitter:

  • Basic Projects use simple stitches and may include basic increases and decreases.
  • Easy Projects may include simple stitch patterns, colorwork, and/or shaping.
  • Intermediate Projects may include involved stitch patterns, colorwork, and/or shaping.
  • Complex Projects may include complex stitch patterns, colorwork, and/or shaping using a variety of techniques and stitches simultaneously.

All the projects in Quick + Easy Knits are either basic or easy. They’re suitable for all knitters, from an ambitious beginner who just finished their first scarf to the most experienced knitter in the world who wants a relaxing project.

Finished Size

The finished size of the project is usually listed at or near the beginning of the pattern. For projects that come in multiple sizes, all the sizes are listed in the same order throughout (unless there are areas where some sizes are spelled out separately).

An example of the size for a project that is in only one size, such as a scarf, is written as follows:

FINISHED SIZE: 14″ wide and 72″ long.

For projects with more than one size, like a sweater, all the sizes are listed in order. For example:

FINISHED SIZE: 34 (38, 42, 46, 50, 54, 58, 62, 66)” circumference at underarm. Sample shown measures 38″; modeled with 4″ of positive ease.

The size outside the parentheses is the smallest size, and all the other sizes are contained within the parentheses in ascending order. For patterns with multiple sizes, it’s a good idea to go through the pattern before you begin knitting and highlight the numbers for the size you are making. In areas where sizes are spelled out separately, make sure that you locate your size before working these sections. If only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.

Calculating “Ease” to Choose the Right Size

For garments especially, note that the finished size refers to the garment size, not the wearer’s body size. The difference between the finished garment size and the body size is called “ease.” Ease can be positive or negative, depending on the desired fit of the garment. For example, the
Amber Pullover is shown with 7″ of positive ease, meaning the garment is 7″ larger around than the model.

The Amber Pullover from Quick + Easy Knits is modeled with 7″ of positive ease, meaning the garment is 7″ larger around than the model.

To choose your size for the example sweater, measure the circumference of your chest at the underarm, add 7″, then choose the size that’s closest to the measurement you get. You may prefer to knit a sweater that fits more tightly or loosely than the garment in the pattern photo — it’s up to you!

Yarn

Most patterns call for a specific yarn. Typically, the yarn information includes the yarn company, the yarn name, the fiber content, the length in yards and meters, the weight in ounces and grams, the color(s), and the number of balls or skeins required for each size.

If a pattern uses more than one color, these colors are often labeled using the following letters:

  • MC: main color
  • CC: contrasting color (which can be combined with a number if there is more than one contrasting color: CC1, CC2, etc.)
  • A, B, C, etc.

When purchasing more than one skein of the same color, make sure to check the labels for the dyelot number, in addition to the color number. Skeins that have the same dyelot number were all dyed in the same batch, so the skeins will be closer in color than those from different dyelots. Skeins from different dyelots—even if they have the same color number and look the same when comparing individual skeins—can look noticeably different in the completed project.

You can use the specific yarn listed in a pattern or you can substitute a different yarn of a similar thickness and fiber. Check out this article for more information on substituting yarns.

Needles

There are different types of knitting needles, including straight, circular, and double-pointed. The type of needle you need for a project is usually specified in the pattern. All these types of needles come in different lengths, so make sure you are using the correct length of needle for the project.

Common knitting needle materials include metal, wood, bamboo, and plastic. The material can affect the level of comfort and sometimes even the gauge. Experiment with different needle materials until you find the one that is best for you.

Knitting needles come in different sizes based on the diameter of the needle. The needle size is indicated by a number and a metric diameter. The United States uses a numerical system for sizing needles (sizes 9in this example), but the rest of the knitting world uses the metric system (5.5 mm here). The pattern will call for the specific needle size that the designer used for the project, but the more important thing is to get the same gauge; this may require changing the needle size (see the Gauge section below).

Notions

Your project may require other tools or supplies that will be listed separately.

These may include:

  • Stitch markers: These are small rings that you place on the needle to help keep track of where you are in your knitting. You can also use small loops of yarn as markers.
  • Cable needles: This is a short needle to hold stitches as you’re working a cable.
  • Stitch holders: These look like giant, dull safety pins; their job is literally to hold stitches that will be used later. Waste yarn also works well for holding stitches.
  • Tapestry needle: This is a blunt sewing needle with a large eye for seaming and weaving in your ends.
  • Waste yarn: Extra yarn that isn’t part of your project. Smooth yarn, such as cotton, in a contrasting color usually works best.
  • Buttons or zippers: The pattern will tell you how many and which size you need.

Gather all the notions you need and keep them in a pouch with your project; that way, you have them whenever you need them. It’s also helpful to have scissors and a tape measure handy as you’re working on your project.

Gauge

Gauge is the number of stitches and rows per inch. The gauge is usually given over the stitch pattern that is used in the project.

To check that you can achieve the gauge called for in the pattern, you will need to knit a swatch. Start with the needle size called for in the pattern, then adjust the needle size if necessary.

Working the Gauge Swatch

The gauge in the pattern is usually given over 4 inches, but you should make the swatch 50% larger so you can measure 4″ in the center of the swatch. To do this, multiply the number of stitches in 4″ by 1.5 and cast on that number of stitches (adjusting as needed for the pattern stitch multiple). For example, if the recommended gauge is 20 stitches over 4 inches, you should cast on 30 stitches for your swatch—i.e., 20 stitches x 1.5 = 30 stitches. Work your swatch in the stitch pattern until it is 6″ tall, then bind off.

It’s important to block the swatch the same way that you will block your project because blocking affects the gauge. If you’re planning to wash your project at some point, wash your swatch the same way. Take the gauge both before and after blocking and note both. Gauge often changes during blocking, and you don’t want any surprises after you finish your project!

If the blocked gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, change your needle size accordingly. For example, if you’re getting more stitches in 4 inches, your stitches are too small; go up a needle size. If you’re getting fewer stitches, the stitches are too large, and you should go down a needle size.

It’s perfectly okay if you don’t end up using the same needle size that the pattern designer used—in fact, this is very common. Correct gauge is more important than using the needle size specificed in the pattern!

Notes

A pattern may have a section with information you need to know to complete your project. This may include the following:

Construction

  • Example: The body of this cardigan is worked back and forth in one piece from the lower edge to the underarm, then the upper fronts and back are worked separately. Stitches for the sleeves are picked up around the armhole and the sleeves are worked in the round from the top down.
  • Example: This rectangular shawl is worked back and forth in rows from the bottom up.

Needle type

  • Example: A circular needle is used to accommodate the large number of stitches.

Charts

  • Example: Cable crosses are worked on wrong-side rows so that every right-side row of the shawl is knitted.

Shaping

  • Example: The collar is worked at the same time as the main body and uses cable decreases for the front-neck shaping.

Additional things to keep in mind

  • Example: The sample scarf used almost all of the fourth skein of yarn. Consider purchasing an extra skein as insurance.
  • Example: Break yarn at each color change.

It’s important to read the Notes section carefully before you start the pattern to prevent any unpleasant surprises later on.

Stitch Patterns Used

Less-common abbreviations and terms, as well as special stitches and stitch patterns (if written out and not charted), are included in this section. Some examples are how to work a particular decrease or increase, or a stitch pattern such as seed stitch.

Instructions for Working the Project

Once you have all your tools and have checked your gauge, you’re ready to start the project. Pattern writers present the instructions in a logical order, beginning with the cast-on and ending with the final finishing touches.

It helps to familiarize yourself with the most common abbreviations and terms, especially because many of them won’t be defined in the pattern. Here are some of the most common knitting pattern abbreviations.

Knitting Jargon Explained

You may see some of these commonly-used terms in a pattern:

Work even, work even in patt:

Continue what you are doing without increasing or decreasing. You’ll often find this phrase right after you’ve worked armhole shaping (bind-off and decreases).

Work stitches as they appear:

This means that if the next stitch looks like a knit stitch, you knit it, and if it looks like a purl stitch, you purl it.

* . . . ; rep from *:

This combination of asterisk and semicolon is shorthand for telling you to repeat something, e.g., k2, p2; rep from * 4 more times” tells you to work the k2, p2 sequence a total of 5 times.

Ending with a WS row:

The last row you work should be a wrong-side row. The next row will be a right-side row.

Ending with a RS row:

The last row you work should be a right-side row. The next row will be a wrong-side row.

With RS facing:

As you hold your knitting, you’ll be looking at the right side of your project.

Place marker:

Use markers to help you keep track of groups of stitches. To place a marker, put a purchased marker (a little ring) or tie a piece of yarn on your needle, and carry on. Whenever you come to the marker, simply slip it from the left needle to the right needle.

Place stitches on holder:

Stitch holders hold your live stitches while you work on another section. Slip stitches purlwise from the needle onto the holder and fasten it so the stitches can’t slide off. When you’re ready to work those stitches, slip them back onto the needle.

Bind off in patt:

As you bind off stitches, work in the established stitch pattern, i.e., knit the knit stitches and purl the purl stitches.

Every other row:

Sometimes your pattern will tell you to work an increase or decrease every so often. Most patterns ask you to work decreases or increases on right-side rows. Every other row means working the increases or decreases on every right-side row; “every fourth row” means you’ll work the increase or decrease on the first right-side row, work 3 rows even, then work the increase or decrease again on the next row (right side).

Other Things You Might See in a Pattern

These visual elements will help you visualize how the pattern maps onto the pieces of knitted fabric you’re creating.

Charts

A chart uses symbols instead of text to represent a stitch pattern.

The chart shows the stitch pattern as seen from the right side of the work.

Schematics

A schematic is a scale drawing of the pieces of the pattern. Relevant measurements are indicated on the schematic.

A schematic provides you with:

  • An overview of the size and shape of the piece;
  • A point of reference for determining the fit of a garment;
  • A template for modifying the size of the piece; and
  • Measurements for blocking the piece.

It’s important to review the schematic before embarking on a project. Using the shape and measurements of the schematic, determine whether changes are needed to achieve your desired fit.

An easy way to determine whether modifications to the pattern are needed is to compare the measurements of an existing well-fitting garment to the measurements shown on the schematic.

Schematics are often presented as follows:

Read here about how to use these numbers to find your size.


And that’s it! You’re ready to start your new project. Just remember to get your supplies together, MAKE A SWATCH (and block it!), and follow the directions. With a little practice, you’ll be able to read a knitting pattern with ease and tackle any project.

More Beginner Resources


Try Your New Skills on These Basic Patterns

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