Interweave+ Membership - Monthly How to Knit a Folded Picot Hem
It’s often the little things that make a simple garment uniquely yours. I love replacing ribbing with a folded picot hem. It is a subtle, delicate detail that can elevate a sweater or hat to better than basic. And it’s surprisingly easy to do! Let me show you how.
What is a Picot Hem?
A picot hem is a double layer of knitted fabric used as the finished edge of a garment. A row of eyelets at the fold line creates a tiny scallop along the edge.
Where to Use a Folded Picot Hem
A folded picot hem can be used in any place where you might normally use ribbing, seed stitch, or garter stitch as a border. The collar, cuffs, and lower edges of sweaters are common placements for a picot hem. Socks and mittens look great with a picot hem at the cuff. And a picot hem at the brim of a lacy knitted hat is a lovely touch.
Since the folded picot hem is most often worked in stockinette stitch (as illustrated here), it will not draw in the way a ribbed border does. If your edge needs the extra elasticity that ribbing creates, or if you’re relying on ribbing to draw in a too-wide neckline, for example, then a picot hem may not be a great choice.
Planning Your Folded Picot Hem
The folded picot hem can be made at both a cast-on edge and a bound off edge. It is easily worked either in the round (as shown below) or flat in rows. If working in the round, you’ll need an even number of stitches. If working flat, you’ll need an odd number of stitches.
To avoid bulk, the hem facing (the part that folds to the wrong side) is worked on a needle a size or two smaller than the needle you’ll use for the rest of the garment.
Step-by-Step Instructions for a Picot Hem at a Cast-on Edge
1
Using the smaller needle, cast on the required number of stitches. You’ll need to get into these stitches later, so if you use a long-tail cast-on as I did, be sure to cast on loosely. A provisional cast on also works well. Work in stockinette stitch for 1–1½”; for this sample, I knit 10 rounds (Photo 1). If you’re working in rows, end with a purl row.
2
If you’re working in the round, with an even number of stitches: *Yo, k2tog; rep from * to end of round (Photo 2).
If you’re working in rows, with an odd number of stitches: K1, *yo, k2tog; rep from * to end of row.
3
Change to the larger needle and work in stockinette stitch until the piece is the same length from eyelets to needle as it is from cast-on to eyelets. Because you’ve changed needle size, therefore likely changing your row gauge, this will probably be a round/row or two less than you worked before the eyelets. For my sample, I knit 9 rounds (Photo 3).
4
Return to the cast-on edge. If you used a provisional cast-on, remove the waste yarn and place the stitches on your smaller needle. If you used a long-tail cast-on, use your smaller needle to pick up the edge loop at the base of each cast-on stitch (Photo 4). You should end up with the same number of stitches on each needle. If you’re working in the round, be sure the beginning of the round is in the same place on both needles.
5
Bring the smaller needle up behind the larger needle, folding the piece at the eyelets (Photo 5).
6
Use the larger needle to knit the two edges together as follows: *Insert needle through the first stitch on the front needle, then through the first stitch on the back needle, and knit these two stitches together; rep from * to end of round (Photo 6).
Note that on the sample the stitches picked up from the cast-on edge are mounted backward (the right-hand leg of each stitch is sitting in back of the needle, not in front), so I need to knit those stitches through the back loop to avoid twisting them.
7
The picot hem is complete, and I’m ready to continue with my project (Photo 7). The folded picot hem looks beautiful on both sides.
Step-by-Step Instructions for a Picot Hem at a Bound-off Edge
1
To make a folded picot hem at the end of your piece, instead of the beginning, knit to the desired length for the finished piece. Change to the smaller needle and work the eyelet round/row as in Step 2 above. Continuing with the smaller needle, work in stockinette stitch for 1–1½” (Photo 1). Notice that I’ve used a removeable stitch marker to mark the beginning of the round at about the spot where the folded hem will attach.
End with a purl row if you’re working flat. Cut your yarn, leaving a long tail—about double the length of the finished edge. If you’re working on a big piece, don’t worry. You can work with a shorter, more manageable tail and join in more yarn when your tail runs out.
2
Thread your tail onto a tapestry needle. Fold the piece at the eyelet row/round. On the wrong side of the work, identify the first stitch of the row/round that just meets the stitches on your needle (Photo 2). In the photo, it’s the stitch just to the left of the marker and just above the first stitch on the left needle.
3
Bring your tapestry needle through the first stitch on the knitting needle, then through the stitch you identified in the Step 2 (Photo 3). Draw the yarn through, taking that stitch off the knitting needle. Don’t pull tight; just take up the slack.
4
Keep going, sewing that last round/row to the wrong side of the piece stitch by stitch (Photo 4). Take care to follow the same row or round of stitches on the wrong side all the way across—if you wander from row to row, your hem will not lay flat. Maintain a relaxed tension in your sewing so you don’t impede the stretchiness of your hem. When you reach the end, weave in the tail.
My sample has become a warm headband! Find some inspiring projects featuring the folded picot hem in the links below.
Where would you use a picot hem? Let us know in the comments!
Thank you to Ancient Arts Yarns for providing the yarn used for these samples. This sample was made with Herlig.
Sandi Rosner is the technical content editor for all things yarn at Interweave. When she isn’t knitting, she usually has her nose in a book. You’ll find new technical content from Sandi nearly every week at www.interweave.com.
Projects Featuring Folded Picot Hems
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