How to Adjust Your Sweater Patterns for Gauge Differences

The simplest way to follow a pattern and achieve the result that the designer envisioned is to knit at the gauge specified in the pattern. However, even when we use the same yarn and the needle size called for, the gauge we produce isn’t always spot on. Throw in yarn substitutions and we need to think about how gauge and sweater construction work together.

While it’s relatively easy to determine what pattern size to choose to achieve the desired the chest size, body circumference is not the only measurement that goes into achieving a good fit. Let’s look at three of the most popular sweater shapes—raglan, circular yoke, and drop shoulder—and examine the areas to consider when deciding how to alter patterns to work with your own specific gauge.

Stitch Gauge vs. Row Gauge

There are two elements of gauge: the stitch gauge and the row gauge. A variation in stitch gauge will affect the circumference of the chest and sleeves. A variation in the row gauge will change the length of the body, sleeves and yoke (upper chest and shoulder area) of the sweater. If you have more stitches or rows per 4″ than is specified in the pattern, your finished sweater will be smaller than expected. If you have fewer stitches or rows per 4″ than the specified gauge, your finished sweater will be larger than expected.

Many of us find we can match either stitch gauge or row gauge, but we can’t seem to match both. In this case, use the needle size that lets you match the stitch gauge. It’s usually easier to adjust the pattern to match your slightly-off row gauge than to re-calculate stitch counts to match your personal stitch gauge.

Adjusting for Row Gauge in the Lower Body and Sleeves

For most sweater patterns, adjusting the length of the body below the armholes is simple: just work more or fewer rows to get the length you want.

If your pattern has tapered sleeves, you may need to change the frequency of the increase or decrease rows to adjust the sleeve length. Work fewer rows between shaping rows if your gauge is larger (fewer rows or rounds to the inch) than the pattern specifies. Work more rows between shaping rows if your gauge is smaller (more rounds or rows in each inch) than the pattern calls for.

Adjusting for Row Gauge in Yokes and Shoulders

Where things get more complicated is when you have to consider how your gauge difference will impact the fit in the shoulders and upper chest. In particular, your change in row gauge will impact how your sleeves attach to the shoulders. These modifications will call for a change in the pattern itself.

Raglan

A raglan sweater has either increases (if worked from the top down) or decreases (if worked from the bottom up) arranged in four more-or-less straight lines from the underarm to the neck.

The yoke area of your raglan may need a length adjustment if your row gauge differs from the pattern. If your gauge is larger (fewer rows or rounds to the inch), omit some of the plain rows between the shaping rows. If your gauge is smaller (more rows or rounds to the inch), add plain rows between the shaping rows. These adjustments should be made toward the bottom of the yoke, near the underarms. Variations in the angle of the shaping lines are less conspicuous in this area than if they occur near the neck.

If your raglan is knit in pieces and seamed, rather than knit in the round, be sure to make identical adjustments in both the sleeve caps and the upper body.

Circular Yoke

The circular-yoke sweater features increases or decreases regularly spaced around the yoke between the neck and underarm, creating a yoke shape that is indeed circular.

You can adjust the length of a circular yoke in much the same way you would for a raglan. Add or remove length from the yoke by working more or less rows or rounds between shaping rows/rounds as needed.

Drop Shoulder

Drop shoulder sweaters, although one of the simplest shapes, can pose the biggest challenges when adjusting for a different gauge. The circumference of the top of the sleeves, which is governed by the stitch gauge, must match the armhole, which is governed by row gauge.

If the sleeves for your sweater are worked separately and sewn in place, consider making the sleeves first, even if the pattern isn’t written in that order. When knitting the body, make sure the length of the armhole on both back and front is equal to half of the top of the sleeve. Work more or fewer rows as needed to make the armhole the appropriate length.

Related: How to Determine Sleeve Length for Drop Shoulder Designs

You’ve Got This!

Small variances in gauge don’t need to derail your knitting plans, and you don’t have to settle for a less than perfect fit. A few easy adjustments are all you need to create a sweater you’ll be proud to wear.

Theresa Shingler is a Welsh knitwear designer living and working in the English Midlands. She has a passion for texture and form and loves to combine both in thoughtful patterns for wearable knitwear. She loves to take inspiration from the world around her—from the natural world to the architecture of the built landscape—and use it to inform her knitting practice. Theresa can be followed on Instagram @theresashinglerknits.