An Education in Grafting Lace Edgings: Edging Pattern 7

So far in our series on grafting lace edgings, we’ve covered how to create:

• a picot selvedge with purl stitches
• a slip stitch selvedge at the beginning of a row
• twisted stitches
• single and double yarnovers
• single and double decreases

Just like the first edging in our series on grafting lace edgings, the seventh edging is a garter-stitch-based edging with a picot selvedge at the right-hand side. In this case, however, the picot selvedge is worked with knit stitches, instead of purl stitches.

This lace pattern is another two-sided pattern, which means that yarnovers and decreases are worked on both right-side and wrong-side rows.

For the grafting, I used Rows 1 and 2 of the lace chart (Row 1 for the grafted row itself and Row 2 for the provisional cast-on row). I chose those two rows because they have the fewest stitches (and the fewest decreases), of any of the other rows.

As with the series on grafting two-sided lace, the live stitches will be held on waste yarn until the grafting is complete because this is much easier than grafting lace on the needles. Make sure to use cotton in a contrasting color for the provisional cast-on so that you can clearly see the main-color stitches. The lace swatches can be worked in two separate pieces: one piece that begins with a provisional cast-on, and another that ends with live stitches. Use a heavier-weight waste yarn (also in a contrasting color) to hold the live stitches of the lower piece to prevent the stitches from sinking down into the stitches in the row below, which makes it difficult to retrieve them.

Keep the stitches on the waste yarn as they are being grafted.

Quick refresher:

• Knitwise = point of tapestry needle faces away from you (tip of needle can point either to the right or to the left, depending on the orientation of the stitch on the waste yarn).
• Purlwise = point of tapestry needle faces toward you (tip of needle can point either to the right or to the left, depending on the orientation of the stitch on the waste yarn).
• The dotted lines on the grafting chart indicate the spaces between stitches on the upper piece. If there is no dotted line (or yarnover) separating letters on the upper row of the chart, the steps are both worked into the same loop.
• The yarnover symbols on the upper row of the grafting chart indicate the placement of the yarnovers that were worked on the provisional cast-on row.

THE GRAFTING SEQUENCES

Five grafting sequences are used to graft this edging: Sequences C, F, G, L, and U.

If you want to practice the sequences (for this and other edgings) on stockinette stitch, I’ve set up two practice swatches for this purpose. Sequence C can be found in Practice Swatch 1 and Sequences F and G can be found in Practice Swatch 2. (Sequences L and U aren’t included in the practice swatches.)

The most important sequence to practice is Sequence C, which is a basic garter-stitch graft with four steps: Steps 1 and 4 create a knit stitch on the lower piece and Steps 2 and 3 create a purl stitch on the upper piece.

Most of the other sequences (all except for F, which is a knit version of Sequence G) are simply variations of Sequence C.

Sequence F creates a knit stitch on the upper piece and a yarnover on the lower piece. Working Sequence F at the edge creates the decorative picot selvedge.

Sequence G uses only Steps 2 and 3 of Sequence C and skips Steps 1 and 4 (to create a purl stitch on the upper piece and a yarnover on the lower piece).

For Sequence L, Steps 1 and 4 of Sequence C are worked through two stitches instead of one, creating a k2tog on the lower piece.

For Sequence U, Steps 1–4 of Sequence C are worked first, then Step 5 is worked over the same two stitches as Steps 2 and 3 to create a p2tog on the upper piece. The yarnover on the lower piece is created by skipping steps on the lower piece.

WORKING THE UPPER PIECE

The Provisional Cast-On

Because the lace pattern is two-sided, it will be necessary to work a yarnover on the provisional cast-on row (which forms the base for Row 2 of the lace chart). Row 2 of Edging Pattern 7 contains only a single yarnover; the remaining 16 stitches (counting the decrease as a single stitch) are cast on provisionally. There is no need to differentiate between knit and purl stitches, or to work decreases on the provisional cast-on row (pattern Row 2) because these will be created during the grafting.

I’ve provided different options for casting on provisionally so you can choose your preferred method:

Crochet Chain Method

1. With crochet hook and cotton waste yarn, chain about 23 sts. Break yarn and pull tail through last st.
2. Turn chain over so the bumps in the back of the chain are visible. With knitting needle and working yarn, beginning in 3rd st from last st of chain, pick up and knit sts in the chain, placing the yarnover from Row 2 of the chart as foll (reading chart Row 2 from left to right, counting the decrease symbol as one picked-up st): pick up and knit 2 sts, yo and skip a chain, pick up and knit 14 sts—17 sts.

Alternate Crochet Chain Method

1. With crochet hook and cotton waste yarn, work 17 chain sts onto a knitting needle.
2. With working yarn, work as foll: k2, yo, drop a chain st from needle, k14—17 sts.

Waste Yarn Method

1. With cotton waste yarn, cast on 16 sts using any method. Work in St st for about 1″, ending with a RS row. Break waste yarn.
2. With WS facing and working yarn, k2, yo, k14—17 sts.

Work the Lace Chart

Work Rows 3–32 of the Pattern 7 chart once, then work Rows 1–32 as many times as desired. Bind off.

LOWER PIECE

Cast on 16 sts using any method and work Rows 1–32 of the Pattern 7 chart as many times as desired, ending with Row 32. Break the yarn, leaving a long tail for grafting. Place these sts on a strand of waste yarn.

GRAFTING THE EDGING

Start by threading the cast-on tail onto a tapestry needle and running it through to the wrong side of the work to create an extra half loop at the edge. This half loop makes it possible to work all four steps of the last grafting sequence.

HOW TO FOLLOW THE GRAFTING CHART

The grafting chart is worked from right to left and (unlike a regular stitch chart) both rows of the chart are worked at the same time. I print out the grafting chart so I can check off each sequence as it’s worked. That way, if I get interrupted mid-graft, I know that I have to start with the first unchecked sequence.

GRAFT THE STITCHES

Thread the working yarn onto a tapestry needle.

Work Sequence F once:

Step 1: Insert tapestry needle purlwise into yarnover at edge of upper piece. Make sure not to pull the yarn too tightly so that the size of the yarnover loop will be the same as the others along the selvedge.

Step 2: Insert tapestry needle knitwise into next stitch on upper piece.

Sequence F completed.

Work Sequence L once:

Step 1: Insert tapestry needle purlwise into 2 stitches on lower piece.

Step 2: Insert tapestry needle knitwise into stitch on upper piece (into same loop as for Step 2 of Sequence F).

Step 3: Insert tapestry needle purlwise into next stitch on upper piece.

Step 4: Insert tapestry needle knitwise into same 2 stitches on lower piece, following the path of the grafting yarn back through the stitches.

Sequence L completed.

Work Sequence C once:

Step 1: Insert tapestry needle purlwise into stitch on lower piece.

Step 2: Insert tapestry needle knitwise into stitch on upper piece.

Step 3: Insert tapestry needle purlwise into next stitch on upper piece.

Step 4: Insert tapestry needle knitwise into stitch on lower piece, following the path of the grafting yarn back through the stitch.

Sequence C completed.

Work Sequence G once:

Step 1: Insert tapestry needle knitwise into stitch on upper piece.

Step 2: Insert tapestry needle purlwise into next stitch on upper piece.

Sequence G completed.

Work Sequence C nine times:

Work Sequence U once:

Note: Sequence U ends just before yarnover on upper piece (the yarnover worked on the provisional cast-on row).

First, work another Sequence C (Steps 1–4 of Sequence U).

Step 5: Then, insert tapestry needle knitwise, then purlwise into same two stitches on upper piece as for Steps 2 and 3 of first part of sequence.

Sequence U completed.

Work Sequence L once:

Note: Sequence L is worked on other side of yarnover on upper piece.

Step 1: Insert tapestry needle purlwise into 2 stitches on lower piece.

Step 2: Insert tapestry needle knitwise into stitch on upper piece (on other side of yarnover).

Step 3: Insert tapestry needle purlwise into next stitch on upper piece.

Step 4: Insert tapestry needle knitwise into same 2 stitches on lower piece, following the path of the grafting yarn back through the stitches. It helps to fold the lower piece forward so you can see both stitches.

Sequence L completed.

Work Sequence C once:

Remove the waste yarn. Block the stitches to even out the grafted stitches.

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Grafting Lace Edgings in Projects

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