An Education in Grafting Lace Edgings: Edging Pattern 1

Did you catch the introduction to this series on grafting lace edgings? Don’t forget to read that information prior to jumping into the below.

The first edging in our series on grafting lace edgings is a simple, garter-stitch-based edging with a picot selvedge at the right-hand side.

 

grafting lace edgings

The lace pattern is two-sided, which means that yarnovers and decreases are worked on both right-side and wrong-side rows.

For the grafting, I used Rows 18 and 1 of the lace chart (Row 18 for the grafted row itself and Row 1 for the provisional cast-on row). I chose those two rows because Row 18 has only one yarnover/k2tog pair, making it the easiest row to graft. Row 1 was used by default (because it’s the row above Row 18).

As with the series on grafting two-sided lace, the live stitches will be held on waste yarn until the grafting is complete because this is much easier than grafting lace on the needles. Make sure to use cotton in a contrasting color for the provisional cast-on so that you can clearly see the main-color stitches. The lace swatches can be worked in two separate pieces: one piece that begins with a provisional cast-on, and another that ends with live stitches. Use a heavier-weight waste yarn (also in a contrasting color) to hold the live stitches of the lower piece to prevent the stitches from sinking down into the stitches in the row below, which makes it difficult to retrieve them.

grafting lace edgings

Keep the stitches on the waste yarn as they are being grafted.

Quick refresher:

• Knitwise = point of tapestry needle faces away from you

• Purlwise = point of tapestry needle faces toward you

• The dotted lines on the grafting chart indicate the spaces between stitches on the upper piece.

• The yarnover symbols on the upper row of the grafting chart indicate the placement of the yarnovers that were worked on the provisional cast-on row.

THE GRAFTING SEQUENCES

Four grafting sequences are used to graft this edging: Sequences C, G, K, and L.

I recommend that you practice the sequences on stockinette stitch before using them on the edging, and I’ve set up two practice swatches for this purpose. Sequences C and G can be found in Practice Swatch 1 and Sequence K can be found in Practice Swatch 2. (Sequence L isn’t included in the practice swatches.)

The most important sequence to practice is Sequence C, which is a basic garter-stitch graft with four steps: Steps 1 and 4 create a knit stitch on the lower piece and Steps 2 and 3 create a purl stitch on the upper piece.

All the other sequences are simply variations of Sequence C.

For example, Sequence G uses only Steps 2 and 3 of Sequence C and skips Steps 1 and 4 (to create a purl stitch on the upper piece and a yarnover on the lower piece). Working Sequence G at the edge creates a decorative picot selvedge.

For Sequence K, two Sequence C’s are worked so that the second sequence slants to the right over the first, creating a p2tog on the upper piece. (Because the stitches are grafted with the right side of the work facing, a k2tog that was worked on wrong-side Row 1 is worked as a p2tog when grafting.)

And for Sequence L, Steps 1 and 4 of Sequence C are worked through two stitches instead of one, creating a k2tog on the lower piece.

WORKING THE UPPER PIECE

The Provisional Cast-On

Because the lace pattern is two-sided, it will be necessary to work yarnovers on the provisional cast-on row (which forms the base for Row 1 of the chart). Row 1 of Edging Pattern 1 contains 3 yarnovers; the remaining 16 stitches (counting each decrease as a single stitch) are cast on provisionally. I’ve provided different options for casting on provisionally so you can choose your preferred method:

Crochet Chain Method

1. With crochet hook and cotton waste yarn, chain about 25 sts. Break yarn and pull tail through last st.

2. Turn chain over so the bumps in the back of the chain are visible. With knitting needle and working yarn, beginning in 3rd st from last st of chain, pick up and knit sts in the chain, placing the yarnovers from Row 1 of the chart as foll (reading chart Row 1 from left to right, and counting each decrease symbol as one picked-up st): pick up and knit 3 sts, yo and skip a chain, pick up and knit 10 sts, yo and skip a chain, pick up and knit 1 stitch, yo and skip a chain, pick up and knit 2 stitches—19 sts.

Alternate Crochet Chain Method

1. With crochet hook and cotton waste yarn, work 19 chain sts onto a knitting needle.

2. With working yarn, work as foll: k3, yo, drop a chain st from needle, k10, yo, drop a chain st from needle, k1, yo, drop a chain st from needle, k2—19 sts.

Waste Yarn Method

1. With cotton waste yarn, cast on 16 sts using any method. Work in St st for about 1″, ending with a RS row. Break waste yarn.

2. With WS facing and working yarn, k3, yo, k10, yo, k1, yo, k2—19 sts.

Work the Lace Chart

Work Rows 2–18 of the Pattern 1 chart once, then work Rows 1–18 as many times as desired. Bind off.

WORKING THE LOWER PIECE

Cast on 18 sts using any method and work Rows 1–18 of the chart as many times as desired, then work Rows 1–17 and cut the yarn, leaving a long tail for grafting. Place these sts on a strand of waste yarn.

GRAFTING THE EDGING

Start by threading the cast-on tail onto a tapestry needle and running it through to the wrong side of the work to create an extra half loop at the edge. This half loop makes it possible to work all four steps of the last grafting sequence.

HOW TO FOLLOW THE GRAFTING CHART

The grafting chart is worked from right to left and (unlike a regular stitch chart) both rows of the chart are worked at the same time. I print out the grafting chart so I can check off each sequence as it’s worked. That way, if I get interrupted mid-graft, I know that I have to start with the first unchecked sequence.


GRAFT THE STITCHES

Thread the working yarn onto a tapestry needle.

Work Sequence G once:

Step 1: Insert the tapestry needle knitwise into the yarnover at the edge of the upper piece. Make sure not to pull the yarn too tightly so that the size of the yarnover loop will be the same as the others along the selvedge.

Step 2: Insert the tapestry needle purlwise into the next stitch on the upper piece.

Completed Sequence G.

Work Sequence L once:

Note: Sequence L ends just before a yarnover on the provisional cast-on row.

Step 1: Insert tapestry needle purlwise into first 2 stitches on lower piece.

Step 2: Insert tapestry needle knitwise into stitch on upper piece (into the same loop as for Step 2 of Sequence G).

Step 3: Insert tapestry needle purlwise into next stitch on upper piece, ending just before yarnover on provisional cast-on row.

Step 4: Insert tapestry needle knitwise into same 2 stitches on lower piece, following the path of the grafting yarn back through the stitches.

Completed Sequence L. The next sequence (Sequence K) will be worked on the other side of the yarnover on the upper piece.

Work Sequence K once:

Note: Sequence K is worked between two yarnovers on the upper piece.

Step 1: Insert tapestry needle purlwise into stitch on lower piece.

Step 2: Insert tapestry needle knitwise into stitch on other side of yarnover on upper piece.

Step 3: Insert tapestry needle purlwise into next stitch on upper piece, ending just before next yarnover on upper piece.

Step 4: Insert tapestry needle knitwise into stitch on lower piece.

First Sequence C completed.

Step 5: Insert tapestry needle purlwise into next stitch on lower piece.

Step 6: Insert tapestry needle knitwise, then purlwise into same two stitches on upper piece as for first part of sequence.

Step 7: Insert tapestry needle knitwise into stitch on lower piece.

Completed Sequence K.

Work Sequence C nine times:

Note: The first Sequence C is worked on the other side of the yarnover on the upper piece.

Step 1: Insert tapestry needle purlwise into next stitch on lower piece.

Step 2: Insert tapestry needle knitwise into stitch on other side of yarnover on upper piece.

Step 3: Insert tapestry needle purlwise into next stitch on upper piece.

Step 4: Insert tapestry needle knitwise into stitch on lower piece to complete first Sequence C.

Then work eight more Sequence C’s for a total of nine.

Work Sequence K once:

Work Steps 1–7 of Sequence K, ending just before last yarnover on upper piece.

Work Sequence C three times:

Note: Work first Sequence C on other side of yarnover on the upper piece.

Work last two sequences.

Remove the waste yarn. Block the stitches to even out the grafted stitches.

Haven’t started at the beginning of this series on grafting lace edgings?

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(Header Image: Maria’s Veil by Lisa Jacobs from Interweave Knits Winter 2017, is a beautiful example of a project that includes grafting a lace edging.)


Lessons in Lace to Amp Up Your Skills!

 

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