Finished Object: The Cate Cardigan

When I received knitscene’s Fall 2018 edition, I knew I was in trouble. Editor Hannah Baker so completely knocked this issue out of the park, that there wasn’t anything in the edition I didn’t want. Throw in the fact that my daughter (a non-knitter… sigh) felt the exact same way and there could only be trouble. To date, I have bought yarn for at least three projects in this issue and am seriously trying to control myself against buying more. My daughter ended up choosing the Cate Cardigan, so that was the project I started with this fall.

I wasn’t able to get my hands on the recommended yarn; the yarn shop across the parking lot from the office simply didn’t carry it… and I may have mentioned my little issue with wanting yarn NOW in a previous post, so I opted to use Cascade’s Heritage (affiliate link) instead. The colors and yarn were a near perfect match to the Lorna’s Laces Shepherd Sock the pattern called for. The sock yarn also made for a lightweight yet surprisingly warm knitted fabric that makes for a nice three-season garment.

I’ll admit, I had some concerns here; this is a full cardigan knit in little tiny yarn with little tiny needles. My first thoughts were – this is going to take freaking forever! What I found was that the pattern is pretty straightforward and knit in reverse stockinette stitch, so it works up quickly and is perfect knitting while you are watching football or binge watching the latest season of The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel on Amazon (affiliate link). You really just need to be careful to maintain a consistent gauge here because it will become VERY obvious if you don’t. (For me this means no fourth quarter knitting while watching the Broncos!)

A few things to be aware of with this pattern as you knit: it has been a long time since I have had to do an alternating cable cast on, not sure I would choose this one again. While I like that it gives a knit two, purl two feel to the rib from the get-go, it is just more labor intensive than I like my cast-ons to be. I’ll admit, I don’t have a lot of patience and prefer to get knitting as quickly as possible… so this could just be me. Next, blocking happens while your work is still on stitch holders. This was a first for me and I will just warn all of you readers out there: make sure that your stitch holders are securely fastened. I don’t recommend agitation at all here, I swished my work a bit in my Eucalan bath (affiliate link) and one of the holders came undone. Let’s just say that some colorful language ensued. Also, as you are assembling the sweater, you’ll have to pay special attention to setting the sleeves into the armholes… this required a bit of pinning and easing magic on my part.

I also changed things up a bit as I put the cardigan together. The body is reverse stockinette, but I went for a textural difference in the sleeves and exposed the stockinette (knit) side instead of keeping with reverse stockinette like the pattern calls for. I loved the look, so give it a try and see which you like better. The results were an adorable lightweight cardigan I know my daughter will be wearing over and over again.

If you love this pattern, check it out here, but I would seriously recommend buying the whole issue of knitscene for a little more money. I think you will be as tempted as I to knit absolutely everything from this edition.

Pattern Details

DESIGNER Kerry Bullock-Ozkan

DIFFICULTY Intermediate

FINISHED SIZE 34¾ (37¾, 42, 46, 50, 54)” bust circumference, buttoned.

YARN (affiliate links) Lorna’s Laces Shepherd Sock: #60 waistcoat (MC): 2(2, 3, 3, 3, 3) skeins; #65 putty (CC1): 1 (1, 2, 2, 2, 2) skeins; #38 brick (CC2): 2 (2, 3, 3, 3, 3) skeins. I used Cascade’s Heritage yarn instead to nice effect.

NEEDLES (affiliate link) Sizes 1 (2.25 mm) 32” circular. Size 2 (2.75 mm): 24″ circular.

NOTIONS (affiliate links) Markers (m); removable m; stitch holders (4!); tapestry needle and five ¾” buttons.

NOTES This cardigan is worked back and forth in pieces from the bottom up and seamed. Waist shaping occurs on the back only. Don’t break your yarn at color changes; instead carry the yarn up the side of your work until it is needed again. Bring new color under color just used.


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