An Education in Grafting Lace Edgings: Edging Pattern 2

Take a look at the introduction to this series, in addition to the blog depicting Edging Pattern 1, to get the full story on grafting lace edgings!


The second edging in our series on grafting lace edgings is a stockinette-stitch-based edging with a slip-stitch selvedge at the right-hand side and a garter-stitch selvedge at the left-hand side.

 

Unlike the first lace edging, this is a one-sided lace pattern, which means that the yarnovers and decreases are worked on the right-side rows only and the wrong-side rows are “plain” rows (containing only knit and purl stitches).

For the grafting, I used Rows 1 and 2 of the lace chart (Row 1 for the grafted row itself and Row 2 for the provisional cast-on row). In this pattern, no two rows are harder or easier to graft than any other two rows, so I simply chose the first two rows of the chart.

Keep the stitches on the waste yarn as they are being grafted.

Quick refresher:

• Knitwise = point of tapestry needle faces away from you (tip of needle can point either to the right or to the left).

• Purlwise = point of tapestry needle faces toward you (tip of needle can point either to the right or to the left).

• The dotted lines on the grafting chart indicate the spaces between stitches on the upper piece.

THE GRAFTING SEQUENCES

Seven grafting sequences are used to graft this edging: Sequences A, C, D, F, M, N, and O.

I recommend that you practice some of the sequences before using them on the edging. Sequences A, C, D, and F can be found in Practice Swatch 1. (Sequences M, N, and O aren’t included in the practice swatches.)

lace grafting

Sequence M is worked just as for Sequence A, except the needle is drawn through two stitches on the lower piece, instead of just one stitch:

Sequence N creates a slip stitch at the selvedge. Notice in the illustration that the working yarn is coming from the second stitch on the lower piece, instead of from the first stitch. Before working Sequence N, it’s important to leave the last stitch of the last wrong-side row unworked.

Sequence O is worked just as for Sequence M, except the needle is drawn through three stitches on the lower piece, instead of just one stitch:

UPPER PIECE

The Provisional Cast-On

The provisional cast-on forms the base for Row 2 of the lace pattern. There’s no need to differentiate between knit and purl stitches on the cast-on row (that will be done during grafting). Here are three different methods for casting on provisionally for the edging:

Crochet Chain Method

1. With crochet hook and cotton waste yarn, chain about 24 sts. Break yarn and pull tail through last st.
2. Turn chain over so the bumps in the back of the chain are visible. With knitting needle and working yarn, beginning in 3rd st from last st of chain, pick up and knit 18 sts in the chain.

Alternate Crochet Chain Method

1. With crochet hook and cotton waste yarn, work 18 chain sts onto a knitting needle.
2. With knitting needle and working yarn, knit across all sts.

Waste Yarn Method

1. With cotton waste yarn, cast on 18 sts using any method. Work in St st for about 1″, ending with a RS row. Break waste yarn.
2. With WS facing and working yarn, k18.

Working the Lace Chart

Work Rows 3–16 of the Pattern 2 chart once, then work Rows 1–16. Bind off.

LOWER PIECE

Cast on 17 sts and work Rows 1–16 of the chart 2 times (do not work last st of Row 16 on 2nd repeat). Break the yarn, leaving a long tail for grafting. Place these sts on a strand of waste yarn.

GRAFTING THE EDGING

Start by threading the cast-on tail onto a tapestry needle and running it through to the wrong side of the work to create an extra half loop at the edge. This half loop makes it possible to work all four steps of the last grafting sequence.

HOW TO FOLLOW THE GRAFTING CHART

The grafting chart is worked from right to left and (unlike a regular stitch chart) both rows of the chart are worked at the same time. I print out the grafting chart so I can check off each sequence as it’s worked. That way, if I get interrupted mid-graft, I know that I have to start with the first unchecked sequence.

GRAFT THE STITCHES

Thread the working yarn onto a tapestry needle.

Work Sequence N once:

Step 1: Insert tapestry needle purlwise into slip stitch at edge of lower piece. Notice that the point of the tapestry needle is facing to the right.

Step 2: Insert tapestry needle from right to left under both legs of slip stitch on upper piece.

Step 3: Insert tapestry needle knitwise into slip st on lower piece.

The completed grafted slip st.

Work Sequence C once:

Step 1: Insert tapestry needle purlwise into stitch on lower piece.

Step 2: Insert tapestry needle knitwise into stitch on upper piece (using front leg of slip st on upper piece).

Step 3: Insert tapestry needle purlwise into next stitch on upper piece.

Step 4: Insert tapestry needle knitwise into stitch on lower piece.

Completed Sequence C.

Work Sequence F once:

Step 1: Insert tapestry needle purlwise into stitch on upper piece.

Step 2: Insert tapestry needle knitwise into next stitch on upper piece.

Work Sequence M once:

Step 1: Insert tapestry needle purlwise into two stitches on lower piece.Step 2: Insert tapestry needle purlwise into stitch on upper piece.

Step 3: Insert tapestry needle knitwise into next stitch on upper piece.

Step 4: Insert tapestry needle knitwise into same two stitches on lower piece.

Completed Sequence M.

Work Sequence A four times:

Step 1: Insert tapestry needle purlwise into stitch on lower piece.

Step 2: Insert tapestry needle purlwise into stitch on upper piece.

Step 3: Insert tapestry needle knitwise into next stitch on upper piece.

Step 4: Insert tapestry needle knitwise into stitch on lower piece to complete first Sequence A.

Then work three more Sequence A’s for a total of four.

Work Sequence F once:

Step 1: Insert tapestry needle purlwise into stitch on upper piece.

Step 2: Insert tapestry needle knitwise into next stitch on upper piece.

Work Sequence O once:

Step 1: Insert tapestry needle purlwise into three stitches on lower piece.

Step 2: Insert tapestry needle purlwise into stitch on upper piece.

Step 3: Insert tapestry needle knitwise into next stitch on upper piece.

Step 4: Insert tapestry needle knitwise into same three stitches on lower piece.

Completed Sequence O. Note how the top stitch aligns with the right-most stitches of the two-stitch right diagonal line above and below.

*Work Sequence A once:

This Sequence A aligns with the diagonal line of knit stitches above and below.

Work Sequence F once:

This Sequence F aligns with the right-diagonal line of yarnovers above and below.

Repeat From * once More:

This Sequence A forms the lower point of a motif.

The second Sequence F complete.

Work Sequence D once:

Step 1: Skip first stitch on lower piece and insert tapestry needle purlwise into second stitch.

Step 2: Insert tapestry needle purlwise into first stitch on lower piece.

Step 3: Insert tapestry needle purlwise into stitch on upper piece.

Step 4: Insert tapestry needle knitwise into next stitch on upper piece.

Step 5: Insert tapestry needle knitwise into same two stitches on lower piece.

The ssk decrease looks twisted when it’s on the waste yarn. The second photo shows the decrease with the waste yarn removed.

Work Sequence F once:

Work Sequence C 2 times:

Remove the waste yarn. Block the swatch to even out the grafted stitches.

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