Ask the Experts: How Do I Convert Instructions for a Stepped Bind-Off to Short-Rows

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Barb recently wrote to us and asked: Could you do an article on using short-row shaping as a substitute for a stepped/sloped bind-off in a knitting pattern?

Above: Substituting short-row shaping for a stepped bind-off is easy!

We’ve talked a lot in recent weeks about short-rows, including detailed how-tos for German Short-Rows, Wrap & Turn Short-Rows, and Yarn Over Short-Rows. We also talked about how short-rows are used in shaping parts of a garment.

In addition, we discussed why a stepped bind-off can make for lumpy shoulder seams and how to smooth out those bumps. In this article, we’ll put it all together to help Barb (and you!) take charge of her knitting and use the technique she prefers for any pattern.

The Stepped Bind-Off

The directions for shoulder shaping on the back of a sweater often read something like this:

• Starting with a right-side row, bind off 5 stitches at beginning of next 6 rows.
• Bind off remaining stitches.

Using a swatch 40 stitches wide, this produces shaping like the photo above. The back neck edge is 6 rows taller than the lowest point of the shoulder, and each of those steps is 2 rows tall.

The Same Shaping with German Short-Rows

Starting with the same 40 stitches, I substituted German Short-rows for the stepped bind-off to produce the swatch shown below. I’ve bound off the final row of stitches, ready for a horizontal mattress stitch shoulder seam, but you could just as easily put those stitches on holders and join the shoulders with a 3-needle bind-off.

The center of the swatch (above), which represents the back neck edge, is 6 rows higher than the lowest point of the shoulders, but those 2-row steps have been smoothed into a gentle curve by the use of short-rows.

Take a Closer Look: Convert a Stepped Bind-Off to Short-Rows

In the diagram below, the top chart shows that stepped bind-off. The bottom chart shows the same shaping worked with German Short-rows.

Note that the German short-row shaping starts on Row 10, a wrong side row. This is 3 rows earlier than the first bind-off row in the stepped bind-off shaping. Because we’ve got a couple of full-width rows worked after the short-rows are complete, if we don’t start the shaping early the piece will end up too long.

Here is how we’d write the instructions represented by the Short Row Shaping chart:

• Short-row 1 (WS—this is Row 10 on the chart) Work to last 5 stitches, turn.
• Short-row 2 (RS) Make double stitch (DS), work to last 5 sts, turn.
• Short-row 3 DS, work to 4 stitches before DS, turn.
• Short-rows 4–6 Repeat Short-row 3 three more times.
• Short-row 7 (WS) DS, work to end, working DSs as single stitches.
• Next row (RS—this is Row 17 on the chart) Work to end, working DSs as single stitches.
• Next row (WS) Work to end.
• Bind off all stitches.

Notice that while we’re working our short-rows in 5-stitch increments, the instructions say “work to 4 stitches before DS”. The double stitch counts as the 5^th stitch.

I’ve worked these swatches and written the instructions in stockinette stitch for the sake of clarity, but you can use this process for just about any stitch pattern. And while our example was made using German Short-rows, the same thinking applies to any short-row method.

Do you have a knitting or crochet question I can help you answer?

Be like Barb! Write to me at knitting@goldenpeakmedia.com or crochet@goldenpeakmedia.com and put Ask The Expert in the subject line. You just might see the answer in an upcoming newsletter!

Sandi Rosner
Technical Content Editor, Yarn

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Master Short-Row Shaping