How to Knit the Folded-Method Tubular Cast-On

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The tubular cast-on family is beloved for its polished look—similar to ready-to-wear garments. They’re also stretchy, comfortable against the skin, and fun and interesting to work. But not all tubular cast-ons are the same; there are three main varieties for different looks and different purposes: the folded-method tubular cast-on, the yarnover method, and the Italian method (also known as the long-tail method).

Larissa Gibson’s series on tubular cast-ons gives you an option for every application. In Part 1, you’ll learn the folded method for a variety of ribbing patterns. You’ll start with K1, P1 ribbing with even and odd stitch counts, then K2, P2 ribbing and K3, P3 ribbing.

In Part 2, you’ll learn the yarnover method and its variations. Part 3 will walk you through the make-one method. Finally, in Part 4, you’ll learn the Italian method.

Related: Interweave Editors Share Their Favorite Cast-Ons

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Learn the Folded Method for Tubular Cast-Ons

Folded-Method Tubular Cast-On for K1, P1 Rib (even number of sts)

With a double-pointed needle, smooth cotton waste yarn, and using the crochet provisional method, cast on half the final number of stitches desired. With working yarn, [knit 1 row, purl 1 row] 4 times.

Carefully remove the waste yarn and place the cast-on stitches onto a second double-pointed needle (Figure 1), ending with the half loop at the edge of the fabric (Figure 2). Make sure you have the same number of stitches on each needle. Bring the needle with the cast-on stitches up behind the working needle, with wrong sides together.

Work in k1, p1 rib as follows:

• Row 1 (RS) *K1 from front needle, p1 from back needle (Figure 3); rep from * to end.
• Row 2 (WS) *K1, p1; rep from * to end.
• Work 4 more rows in rib patt, then BO all sts (for swatch).

Notice the smooth transition from the stockinette-stitch face of the tubular edge into the ribbing; it is almost undetectable. The edge looks like stockinette stitch, but it doesn’t roll back on itself. When paired with ribbing, the edge draws the ribbing in a bit without sacrificing elasticity.

Most tubular cast-ons will use various techniques to produce the same lower edge as this swatch, give or take a few rows of stockinette stitch. The more rows of stockinette you have, the easier it is to fold the edge over and the more prominent the double-layered edging will be. With fewer rows, less fabric is drawn in, and the edge looks less and less like stockinette.

The swatches in this series of articles are worked over a consistent number of stockinette rows to better compare the results, but the number of rows worked both in stockinette stitch and rib can be varied as desired.

Folded-Method Tubular Cast-On for K1, P1 Rib (odd number of sts)

The folded method works equally well over an odd number of stitches.

To calculate the initial cast-on stitch count, add one to the final number of stitches desired and divide that number by two. Proceed as for an even number of stitches, but when removing the waste yarn, don’t pick up the last half loop at the edge of the fabric; there will be one stitch fewer on the back needle than on the front. Work in k1, p1 rib as follows:

• Row 1 (RS) *K1 from front needle, p1 from back needle; rep from * to last st, k1 from front needle.
• Row 2 (WS) *P1, k1; rep from * to last st, p1.
• Work 4 more rows in rib patt, then BO all sts.

You can work other rib patterns in a similar manner.

Folded-Method Tubular Cast-On for K2, P2 Rib (multiple of 4 sts)

Cast on stitches as for an even number of stitches (over a multiple of 4 stitches). Work in k2, p2 rib as follows:

• Row 1 (RS) *K2 from front needle, p2 from back needle; rep from * to end.
• Row 2 (WS) *K2, p2; rep from * to end.
• Work 4 more rows in rib patt, then BO all sts.

Folded-Method Tubular Cast-On for K3, P3 Rib (multiple of 6 sts)

Cast on stitches as for an even number of stitches (over a multiple of 6 stitches). Work in k3, p3 rib as follows:

• Row 1 (RS) *K3 from front needle, p3 from back needle; rep from * to end.
• Row 2 (WS) *K3, p3; rep from * to end.
• Work 4 more rows in rib patt, then BO all sts.

Folded Method Variation for a Smoother Look

In the previous two swatches, there is a slight distortion in the fabric as two or three consecutive stitches are worked from each needle. The distortion will be less noticeable if you work fewer rows of stockinette stitch before starting the rib pattern, but there’s another option. No rule says that stitches on the front needle must be knitted and stitches on the back needle must be purled.

Working the k3, p3 rib while alternately working one stitch from the front needle then one stitch from the back will eliminate the distortion (although the rib face won’t grow out of the stockinette-stitch edge, as in the previous versions).

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In the next installments in this series, we look at other ways to work a tubular cast-on. They use different techniques but produce virtually the same cast-on edge as the folded method. First up is the yarnover method, then the make-one method, and then we cover the Italian or long-tail method.

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Larissa Gibson explores her interest in the details of textile construction as a technical editor for Interweave Knits and other knitting publications.

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Originally published in Interweave Knits Winter 2017. Published to web 1/25/2018.

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