Better Sweaters: Choose Size YOU

What size should I make? This is one of the first questions we face when beginning a new knitting or crochet project. Patterns typically direct you to choose a single size for your entire body based on the circumference of one body part. But we know this is not always the path to a great fit. With so many variations in body shape and infinite combinations of length and circumference, getting the right fit for you requires a different approach.

In this article, we’ll look at the elements of a good fit. We’ll learn how to measure accurately, and which measurements are key to fitting a sweater. Instead of choosing your sweater size based on your full chest or full bust measurement, we’ll find the best way to choose size YOU!

A Very Brief History of Sizing

Prior to the development of standard sizing in the mid-1900’s, most sweaters were custom made. We made sweaters to fit our bodies based on our measurements. Efforts to create commercially produced clothing and patterns that fit more people has resulted in a system of standard sizing that doesn’t fit most of us. If we approach each pattern with the assumption that a single size won’t fit us, we can learn to adapt the system to fit our own bodies.

Shoulder On

If a sweater fits well in your shoulders, it will look and feel like it fits you well, even if the fit in the rest of the body is a bit off. Because of the way sizing standards work, we can assume that sweater patterns are built for a 2-inch difference between our upper torso and our full chest. If a designer has used a different method for sizing, they will make it very clear in the sizing information.

What is the upper torso measurement? This is the single most important measurement in choosing which size to use as your starting point. The upper torso (sometimes called high bust) is the measurement around your body at the upper chest, way up in your armpits, above your breasts.

Choosing a size that will fit your shoulders well is simple: choose a chest/bust size based on your upper torso measurement, then look to see if your other measurements fit within that size. Sometimes the best fit for you is a hybrid size—blending between 2 or 3 sizes to create a custom fit.

Let’s look at an example:

Both of these sweaters have set-in sleeve construction. The one on the left shows what happens when you choose a size based on your full chest/bust measurement instead of your upper torso. Notice how the seam where the sleeve meets the shoulder hits several inches down the upper arm. The shoulders don’t fit properly. This has a domino effect through the armhole, waist and hip. Note the fabric bunching at the waist. There is also significant excess fabric under the arm, making it very uncomfortable to wear.

Related: 6 Types of Sweater Armholes

The sweater on the right is a smaller size in the shoulders. I chose/drafted this sweater based on my upper torso measurement. I’ve added bust shaping in the front and modified the rest of the body so that it fits better everywhere.

The Key to Good Fit is Good Measurements

Taking accurate measurements is the key to good fit when you’re making sweaters. If the measurements you’re using don’t accurately reflect your body’s dimensions, you’ll be making fit decisions based on faulty information.

Here are some tips for taking accurate measurements:

Which Measurements Do You Need?

You can find a comprehensive list of body measurements on my website, along with tips on how and where to measure. You’ll need to refer to the schematic diagram in the pattern to see how your body measurements relate to the dimensions of the sweater. At a minimum, here are the measurements you’ll need:

Key Measurements for Sweaters

Text

Full Chest/Bust: Compare your full chest/bust measurement to your upper torso. If your full bust is more than 2″ larger than your upper torso you may need additional bust shaping in the front of the sweater.

Waist: If the pattern is shaped at the waist, compare your waist measurement to the waist circumference shown in the schematic. You may want to alter, or even omit, the waist shaping.

Hips: Compare your hip measurement to the circumference at the lower edge of the sweater as shown on the schematic.

Biceps: Compare your bicep measurement to the circumference of the sleeve at the upper arm as shown on the schematic. This is a commonly overlooked fit point that makes a big difference in the comfort of the sweater.

Adjusting Patterns to Your Measurements

In comparing your full list of measurements with the schematic from your pattern, you might find that the lengths of sleeves, hemlines, and even the space between armhole and waist are not quite right for you. Make a note of the adjustments you want to make to this pattern.

Knitting and crocheting your own sweaters is a sort of superpower. You don’t have to settle for garments made to fit some hypothetical “average” body. You can custom make sweaters that fit your body perfectly!

This is the second article in a series on Better Sweaters! Go back to Part 1 for tips on choosing sweaters that you’ll love to wear, and then move on to Part 3 to learn all about ease. In Part 4, we talk about swatching for gauge to get the fabric you love to fit your unique size, then move on to Part 4 for tips on swatching and designing from your fabric.

Originally published 8/11/2022. Updated 10/16/2023.