100 Knits: the Tucker Sweater
Sometimes, you need a little nudge from the universe to get going on a project. I loved the Tucker Sweater when it first came out in Interweave Knits Fall 2015. Simple lines, a beautiful cabled yoke, a heavier yarn—what’s not to love? I bought yarn for it a few years ago, but for some reason it never made it onto my needles. When this pullover turned up again in 100 Knits, I took it as a sign: it’s time to cast on.
Cabled yokes are always so beautiful; I’m sure many of you have made a Tangled Yoke Cardigan. Horizontal cables are so clever; they may look like they’re worked from side-to-side, but they’re worked from the bottom up, just like the rest of the sweater. They seemingly appear out of nowhere, weave around the yoke, then disappear into nothingness. It’s such an ingenious and lovely technique.
Recently, I’ve been experimenting with different sweater shapes. My pullovers are usually pretty fitted, but lately I’ve been drawn to a boxier silhouette. I like the idea in theory, but not so much in execution; baggy sweaters look cute on other people, but I just feel like I’m wearing an oversized sweatshirt. After some trial and error, I found the ideal style for me is more of an A-line shape: still fitted at the bust, but with a bit of positive ease at the waist. It’s a more forgiving style that still shows off some curves—the best of both worlds! My plan is to cast on for a larger size and only work the decreases for the waist shaping, ending up with a smaller size at the bust. I should end up with about 2” of negative at the bust and about 3–4” of positive ease at the waist.
I love the original oatmeal color; however, my sweater will be gray. I’m making my sweater out of Cloudborn Fibers Wool Bulky Naturals in Flax Heather, a lovely steely gray. It’s an Aran-weight yarn made of 100% highland wool. Highland wool comes from Corriedale-cross sheep living in Peru; it’s the perfect mix of softness and durability. The thicker yarn also means it should come together in a jiffy.
Instead of making a gauge swatch, I jumped right in and started on the sleeve. Since the Tucker Sweater is worked from the bottom up, I can use a sleeve as a swatch. I’ve made it just past the cuff; once I get about 6” into the stockinette stitch portion, I’ll block it and check the gauge. Wish me luck on getting the correct gauge!
Make the Tucker Sweater and more!