Grafting a Knitted Cable Pattern Top-to-Bottom

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The prospect of grafting a cable pattern makes some knitters very nervous, even those who might otherwise feel comfortable with grafting. If you are one of these knitters, perhaps it will ease your fear (at least a little) if I tell you that, even though cables can sometimes make a pattern look complex, the basic structure of most cable patterns is composed entirely of knit and purl stitches. So, while the cables can’t be discounted completely (because they will have some effect on the grafting), the grafting process itself is relatively simple, consisting of just four grafting steps for stockinette stitch and four steps for reverse stockinette stitch (that are the reverse of the steps for grafting stockinette stitch).

There is, however, one important thing that needs to be considered when grafting a ribbing or cable pattern, and that is the knitting direction—in relation to the grafted row—of both pieces that are being joined together. The knitting direction is important because it will determine whether the pattern will have a half-stitch jog at the point where the two pieces are joined or whether the pattern will be aligned vertically. The knitting direction will also determine the order in which the grafting steps are worked. This order will change, depending on whether the stitches are grafted top-to-top or top-to-bottom.

Knitting Direction When Grafting Knit and Purl Stitches

With top-to-top grafting, live stitches on the last row of each piece are joined together, so both pieces are oriented toward the grafted row (and in the opposite direction from each other). With top-to-bottom grafting, the live stitches on the last row of one piece are joined to a provisional cast-on row (usually from the same piece of knitting, as for a cowl). In this case, the direction of knitting moves toward the grafted row on one piece and away from the grafted row on the other piece, so the knitting direction on both pieces is the same. When a ribbing pattern (or any ribbing-based pattern) is grafted, there will only be a jog in the pattern if there is a change of direction, as there will be when stitches are grafted top-to-top. Thus, there shouldn’t be a jog when stitches are grafted top-to-bottom.

In this article, we’ll focus primarily on grafting cable patterns top-to-bottom. We’ll look at how the stitch patterns on both pieces will align vertically, with no jog, and how the grafting steps should follow this vertical alignment of the stitches. We’ll also see how grafting creates two pattern rows, even though only one physical row is added. Finally, we’ll see how the distortion caused by working cables near the cast-on row can be mitigated by using waste yarn to secure the cast-on stitches and how running a lifeline through the cast-on stitches before removing the waste yarn can keep the cast-on stitches oriented correctly when placing them onto the knitting needle in preparation for grafting.

The cable patterns used for the swatches in this article are from two of the projects in Interweave Knits Spring 2020, the Devonshire Beanie and the Arctic Headband. 

Both patterns involve grafting cable patterns top-to-bottom. The cable pattern used on the brim of the Devonshire Beanie (see photo below) has 12-stitch cables on every eighth row, with seven rows of plain ribbing between the cable rows (Chart 1). A single stitch at each edge is worked in garter stitch (which requires its own four-step grafting sequence). 

The cable pattern used in the Arctic Headband (see photo below) has cables on every right-side row. The center section of the headband consists of one-over-one knit/purl cables on a reverse stockinette stitch background (Chart 2). At each side, there is a pair of one-over-two cables, with a single elongated slipped stitch crossing over two knit stitches.

Grafting the Cable Patterns Top-to-Bottom

The two swatches shown above were grafted in the center (the yarn tails at the left-hand side of each swatch indicate the position of the grafted row). For each swatch, live stitches on the last row of the lower half were grafted to the bottom of the provisional cast-on stitches on the upper half. When grafting stitches top-to-bottom (with both sets of stitches held on parallel knitting needles), it’s important that the provisional cast-on stitches be held on the back needle so that the knitting direction will remain consistent on both pieces, including the grafted row. Otherwise, there will be a jog in the pattern despite the fact that the stitches are being grafted top-to-bottom.

Order of Steps When Grafting Top-to-Bottom

Grafting instructions that are written for top-to-top grafting will have a repeated four-step grafting sequence that follows the half-stitch jog in the pattern: The first and second steps are worked over two stitches on the front needle, and the third and fourth steps are worked over two stitches on the back needle, with the fourth step located a half-stitch to the left and a row above the first step.

However, when stitches are grafted top-to-bottom, the grafting steps should follow the vertical alignment of the stitch pattern, with all four steps worked in the same vertical column of stitches. 

In this case, the first step is worked on the front needle, the second and third steps are worked over two half-stitches on the back needle, and the fourth step is worked in the same stitch on the front needle as the first step. Working the grafting steps in this way—rather than working them as for top-to-top grafting—greatly simplifies the grafting process and makes the steps much easier to memorize.

Once the knitting direction and the order of the grafting steps have been established, the next thing to think about when grafting a cable pattern—as opposed to grafting a plain ribbing pattern where every row is the same—is the placement of the grafted row (and the provisional cast-on row above it) within the pattern’s row repeat.

Grafting Creates Two Pattern Rows

It seems counterintuitive, but even though only one physical row is added during grafting, two pattern rows are created. The grafted row itself counts as a pattern row, and the intersection of the grafted row with the provisional cast-on row above it creates a second pattern row. This is why the grafting charts must have two rows: The lower row represents the pattern that is created when grafting the stitches on the front needle, and the upper row represents the pattern that is created when grafting the stitches on the back needle.

Inserting the Grafted and Provisional Cast-on Rows into the Cable Pattern

When grafting a cable pattern top-to-bottom, it isn’t necessary to start the pattern from Row 1 after casting on the stitches. (After all, the whole point of grafting is to join two pieces so that the join is completely invisible, with no discernible beginning or end.) However, although there is a certain amount of flexibility when it comes to deciding which pattern rows to use for the grafted row and the provisional cast-on row, there are some factors that should be taken into account: 

• The grafted row and the provisional cast-on row need to be inserted into the cable pattern as two consecutive rows: one right-side row for the grafted row and the following wrong-side row for the provisional cast-on row. 
• Choose the two simplest rows possible, such as two non-cabled rows. 
• Place the two rows as far away from a cable row as possible. If the cable rows are far enough apart, the grafted and provisional cast-on rows should be centered between two cable rows, where there will be minimal distortion. 
• If there are cables on every right-side row, the right-side cable row should be assigned to the grafted row. It will be necessary to rearrange the cable stitches before grafting them in their new configuration—a process that is similar to cabling without a cable needle. If there are a different number of cables in each right-side row, choose a row with the fewest cables. 

Example 1:

The cable pattern used for the Devonshire Beanie brim (Chart 1) has seven plain ribbing rows between cable rows. Of these seven plain rows, two can be used for the cast-on and grafted rows. This limits the possibilities to Rows 1 and 2; 5 and 6; 7 and 8; 9 and 10; 13 and 14; and 15 and 16. Of these six pairs of rows, Rows 7 and 8 and Rows 15 and 16 are the farthest from the cable rows, so either of these pairs will work. In the pattern, Row 15 was designated for the grafted row and Row 16 was designated for the provisional cast-on row. Thus, after stitches are picked up in the waste yarn chain for the cast-on, the pattern begins with Row 1 and ends with Row 14 before grafting. 

Example 2:

On the Arctic Headband, Rows 1, 5, 9, and 13 of the Cable chart (Chart 2) each have six cables, Rows 3 and 11 each have 10 cables, and Rows 7 and 15 each have only four cables. This narrows our choice of grafting-row pairs down to Rows 7 and 8; and 15 and 16. In the pattern, Rows 15 and 16 were chosen for the grafting and provisional cast-on rows, respectively. Thus, just as for the Devonshire Beanie brim, the pattern begins with Row 1 after the provisional cast-on and ends with Row 14 before grafting.

Cables Can Distort the Cast-On Stitches

Another thing that needs to be considered when grafting a cable pattern top-to-bottom is the distortion that occurs when cables are worked near the cast-on edge. Even if the cables are worked a few rows away from the cast-on edge, they may still cause the edge to fold over on itself in places, particularly if the cables are very wide, as they are in the Devonshire Beanie. 

Using waste yarn when casting on provisionally—rather than placing the cast-on stitches onto the cable of a circular needle, for example—can help to hold the stitches firmly in place while still being flexible enough to allow for the “waffling” that occurs at the cast-on edge. When picking up the cast-on stitches in preparation for grafting, it will be necessary to flatten out the edge wherever the folds occur to ensure that no stitches are missed.

Using Waste Yarn for the Provisional Cast-on

There are a couple of ways to cast on provisionally using waste yarn, but I prefer to crochet a chain with waste yarn and then pick up stitches into the back of the chain with the working yarn. (Some people find it easier to work the chain directly onto the needle and then knit across the stitches with the working yarn. Either method is fine and will achieve the same result.) Use a cotton waste yarn for the cast-on that is sturdy enough to hold the stitches securely to minimize distortion. When working across the waste yarn stitches, don’t work them in pattern because doing so will make the waste yarn more difficult to remove. (And there’s no need to work this row in pattern because the pattern will be created when the stitches are grafted.) Using waste yarn that is a very different color than the working yarn and knitting across the waste yarn stitches on a wrong-side row will make it easier to see the cast-on stitches when placing them onto the knitting needle. 

I don’t recommend using Judy’s Magic Cast-on or the Turkish Cast-on when grafting cable patterns. Judy’s Magic Cast-on will add an extra row of stockinette stitch that can disrupt the cable pattern. And, while the Turkish Cast-on will not result in an extra row, the stitches tend to be large and loose, and they may shift out of their correct order when you graft them.

Placing the Cast-On Stitches onto the Needle

When placing the cast-on stitches onto the knitting needle in preparation for grafting, it’s important to remember that you’re working with the bottom of a row of stitches, instead of the top, so the loops will look very different—particularly with a cable pattern. Some of the stitches will be half-knit/half-purl wherever there are purl-to-knit transitions. 

Stitches may cross on top of each other. 

And stitches may even be oriented with the left leg of the stitch in front of the needle, when other stitches are oriented the opposite way. Resist the temptation to “fix” stitches that don’t seem correct as you are placing them onto the needle. As you pick up the stitches, insert the tip of the knitting needle into each cast-on loop before removing the waste yarn from the stitch because the stitch may twist once it’s no longer anchored by the waste yarn.

As additional insurance against picking up stitches incorrectly, insert a lifeline (using a color that is different from the waste yarn used for the chain) into the stitches before picking them up and removing the waste yarn. That way, you can simply follow the lifeline through each stitch as you place it on the knitting needle, without even thinking about how it’s oriented. Leave the lifeline in until after the stitches are grafted so that if you make a mistake, you can simply undo the grafted stitches without losing any stitches in the process.

Inserting a Lifeline

With the right side of the work facing, insert the tapestry needle from right side to wrong side into each working-yarn loop on the chain, beginning with the half loop at the very edge. 

Continue working across the row from right to left, making sure to spread out the cast-on stitches wherever there is a cable twist so that no loops are missed. 

Some of the working-yarn loops under the cables may look more vertical than horizontal. 

As you go, count the loops to make sure the lifeline is going through exactly the same number of loops as the number of stitches that were cast on.

Once the lifeline is in place, undo the waste yarn chain beginning with the last chain worked.

Place the stitches on the needle, following the path of the lifeline through each stitch. 

When all the stitches have been placed on the needle, thread the cast-on tail onto a tapestry needle and create an extra stitch on the knitting needle. You will need this extra stitch in order to work all four grafting steps for the last stitch.

Grafting the Stitches

To graft, hold the knitting needles parallel, with the wrong sides together, the needle holding the provisional cast-on stitches in back, and the needle with the grafting yarn in front. Then work four grafting steps for each stitch, depending on whether you’re working stockinette stitch, reverse stockinette stitch, or garter stitch. Once all the stitches are grafted, remove the lifeline, weave in the ends, and admire your perfectly grafted cable pattern!

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