5 Ways to Use Agate in Your Jewelry Designs

Agate is a form of chalcedony, which is found nearly everywhere in the world. Agates are varied in color and are striped or spotted, and many people believe they symbolize balance and serenity. Agate is an affordable, abundant, and colorful alternative to May’s birthstone. Find inspiration in five designers’ approaches in May’s Alternative Birthstone Project Collection. Each of these agate jewelry designs is available on its own or as part of the collection.

1. Spotlight the Unusual

Kaily agate was discovered in Mexico by John F. Heusler and is named for one of his daughters. It is an unusual agate variant with a mixture of effects. John says the stone shown here is unusual even among other specimens of Kaily agate because it has areas of banding, plumes, and even embedded crystals. Create a custom bezel to highlight a special stone and add complementary accents such as touches of gold, as in the Kaily Agate Pendant project.

2. Combine Freeform Stones

Marilyn Mack fell in love with coquina agate at one of the Tucson gem shows, and it inspired her to create the one-of-a-kind Coquina Pendant. She incorporated natural golden drusy agate and citrine to create an organic look.

According to Marilyn, “The (coquina) stone is made up of the remains of ancient sea creatures, composed mainly of calcium carbonate and phosphorus, mostly from seashells and coral, mixed with fine sand and mud. It comes from the coastline of India, where over time shoreline wave action has mixed the sediment and arranged it into animated, golden strokes and swirls against a background of rusty, reddish-brown.”

3. Make a Chain

Botswana agate is characterized by fine bands and deep, luminous colors. It is prized among agates and has been used in adornments for thousands of years. Kylie Jones was inspired to create delicate chain maille to reflect the striking patterns of the Botswana agate stones in her dramatic Byzantine Botswana Necklace design. Learn to create your own chain maille sections like these or use this pattern to inspire your own soldered-chain designs.

4. Frame It

Agate slices are commonly available in a wide variety of colors, with unique banding and striking transparency. Erica Stice created the Picture in a Frame Pendant to spotlight the see-through quality of the stone slice, which is customizable to highlight an agate slice from your own collection. Erica built minimal attachments for the agate so it would be as transparent as possible. Patterned wire provides a gorgeous backdrop and is also easily customizable to use any patterned wire you have on hand.

5. Bezel It

Mark Ramsour created this open-back bezel setting to highlight the translucent quality of a spectacular agate cabochon. Mark has been fascinated with agate since he was a child when it seemed impossible that light could pass through a slab of rock. The Classic Agate Cuff bracelet project explores the creation of simple appliques created without a pitch bowl, in a practical process he calls “stump repoussé.” 

Agate is a captivating alternative to emerald for May birthstone jewelry. Its range of colors and patterns, combined with its affordability, makes it an appealing choice. With its versatility, jewelry designers can craft agate stones into various jewelry pieces, including rings, pendants, and bracelets that showcase its natural beauty. Whether you’re drawn to its earthy tones or mesmerized by its intricate bands, agate birthstone jewelry is distinctive option for those seeking an alternative to emerald.

What will you make with your favorite agate?