Tips for Setting Small Gemstones: Rubies and More

✓Let the Interweave Knits Winter 2024 issue transport you to a winter wonderland of cozy knits! This remarkable edition features 14 extraordinary projects to immerse yourself in the uniqueness of specially crafted yarns.

Setting small gemstones such as rubies in handmade jewelry designs requires precision and attention to detail. Jewelry maker Allyson Ullmer says, “Most folks are shocked when they find out rubies and sapphires are the same mineral, corundum. Corundum is pretty strong on the Mohs Hardness Scale and is a great choice for a commitment or engagement ring.”

Here are five tips to help you achieve a beautiful and secure setting for rubies and other small gemstones.

Wavellite Pendant jewelry project by Lexi Erickson — Wavellite Pendant by Lexi Erickson

Easy Colla Wood Pendant jewelry project by Lexi Erickson — Easy Colla Wood Pendant by Lexi Erickson

Midnight Black Drusy Pendant jewelry project by Lexi Erickson — Midnight Black Drusy Pendant by Lexi Erickson

Tips for Setting Small Stones

1

Choose the right setting: There are several setting styles suitable for small stones, such as bezel, prong, pave, and channel settings. Consider the size, shape, and cut of the stone, as well as the overall design of your jewelry piece, to determine the most appropriate setting style.

2

Prepare the stone and setting: Ensure that both the stone and the setting are clean and free from any debris or oils that may affect the setting process. You may need to adjust settings, such as enlarging the inside of a tube setting for example.

3

Use the right tools: Invest in quality jewelry-making tools that are specifically designed for stone setting. Some essential tools for setting small stones include tweezers, prong pushers, bezel rollers, and setting burrs. But homemade tools are also practical. Metalsmith Lexi Erickson uses a toothpick with a bit of wax on the tip for picking up and moving small, faceted stones.

4

Secure the stone: Regardless of which setting style you use, you will need to ensure that the stone is firmly held in place. For prong settings, carefully position the prongs over the stone and use a prong pusher to bend them gently but firmly over the stone’s edges. In bezel settings, ensure that the metal wraps around the stone evenly, providing a secure fit. Take your time to make any necessary adjustments to ensure a snug fit.

5

Finishing touches: After setting the stone, inspect the setting for rough edges and take time to address them. Use a polishing cloth to give the setting a final shine.

Veiled Horizon Gem necklace in ruby and rose gold by Kristen Baird Jewelry

Designing with Small Stones

Jeweler Kristen Baird advises, “When setting small stones, especially colorless stones like diamonds, I always keep a towel on my lap and a piece of white paper under my bench pin. That way, if the stone accidentally goes flying, there’s a better chance I won’t lose it! When designing with small stones, brightly colored gems like rubies can pack a big punch when paired with contrasting metals. I love setting melee rubies in yellow or rose gold bezels or teeny-tiny prongs for a major pop of color in a tiny package.”