Learn Chain Maille Jewelry Making: How to Make a Flower Unit (Möbius) Bracelet
Whenever I start to do something that I consider a challenge, I try to break it down into smaller achievable parts. I find that if I don’t, I’ll talk myself out of learning, and that’s never a good idea! So I finally made my peace with chain maille jewelry by making simple achievable parts: flower units.
Chain Maille Jewelry How-To
In her five-star-rated book Chain Maille Jewelry Workshop, Karen Karon shares how to make basic chain maille jewelry units and then shows how to expand them and/or combine them into more complex, advanced chain maille jewelry designs. Reading Karen’s book, I learned that all of those complicated-looking, intricate chain maille designs were built from basic (achievable!) units that are actually pretty easy to make!
I’m especially drawn to the flower-like Möbius, because the jump rings in this design resemble the stacked petals of roses, ranunculus, and camellias that I love. Here’s how to make the chain maille Möbius design, also known as the Flower Unit or Rosette, and how to expand this simple component into chain maille jewelry like earrings and a Byzantine chain maille bracelet. For added flair, Karen writes, “You can enhance this project by using colored or textured wire to create the flowers.”
Chain Maille Jewelry Making: Building a Flower Unit
from Chain Maille Jewelry Workshop by Karen Karon
The Flower Unit, also known as a Möbius or Rosette, is a versatile chain maille jewelry design component that can be mixed with other weaves as a design element or simply connected into a chain. Experiment with different-size jump rings to make units and chains with different looks.
Prepare Jump Rings
1. Prepare enough open and closed jump rings to make the number of units you need. Flower Units are most commonly made using 1 closed jump ring and 2 open jump rings.
Make a Flower
2. Thread 1 open jump ring onto 1 closed jump ring and close it (FIG. 1).
3. Holding these 2 (blue/orange) jump rings together, thread another open (yellow) jump ring through them both using a TE connection and close it (FIG. 2).
4. Arrange these jump rings into the flower shape (FIG. 3).
Connect Flower Units to Make a Chain
Simply connect units to make a chain–even with Flower Units of different sizes! The size of the jump rings you need to connect the units will depend on the size of the jump rings used to construct them. The connecting jump rings need to be large enough to contain two of your Flower Units, side by side, providing just enough space to keep them in proper position without restricting movement.
5. Thread 1 or 2 open jump rings through the center of 2 Flower Units, depending on your design preference, and then close the open jump ring(s) (FIGS. 4 and 5).
6. Continue joining Flower Units to make a flower chain (FIG. 6).
This pretty flower unit can stand alone for simple earrings, too, which are great companions for the bracelet.
In Chain Maille Jewelry Workshop, Karen also shows how to combine the versatile Flower Unit with the Byzantine weave to create a Byzantine Rose Chain. “A popular variation on the straight Byzantine weave is to combine it with a Flower Unit (or a Rosette, as these units resemble a rosebud) to produce the Byzantine Rose weave,” Karen writes. “These flower units are incorporated into the weave at evenly spaced intervals to produce this elegant Byzantine variation.”
You can learn to build other basic chain maille jewelry-making units and how to combine them into more advanced weaves and chains with Karen’s book, Chain Maille Jewelry Workshop. There are projects for every skill level in this informative book, so you can start with those smaller achievable basics and then build them into more complex designs. Then voila! You’re a chain maille jewelry maker.