Beginning Wire Jewelry Making Tips: Which Gauge to Use & More

When you start working with wire to make jewelry, it feels like there’s a lot to learn about it. For instance, there are several hardnesses, different gauges, numerous shapes, and various metals. Even after you grasp that the higher number gauges are thinner wire and lower number gauges are thicker wire, there’s still always the questions about which wire gauge works best for which elements.

One of the questions about wire jewelry making I get the most is what gauge is best for ear wires. (The answer is 20 gauge.) Once you make wire jewelry for a couple years, it starts to become second nature, just as it is when you’re learning anything.

A wire gauge is an essential jewelry making tool for determining which wire is perfect for your jewelry making project.

A wire gauge is an essential tool for determining which wire is perfect for your project.

Wire Jewelry Making Primer

Here are some basics to know when working with wire.

  • The diameter of wire is known as the gauge. In the United States, the standard is Brown & Sharpe, also known as American Wire Gauge.
  • The diameter of wire in inches or millimeters is translated into a numeral from 0-34. The higher the number, the thinner the wire. Most findings are made from gauges ranging from 14g-24g. Working with heavier gauge wire is more difficult by nature.
  • Additionally, jewelry suppliers will sell wire in three hardnesses: dead soft, half hard, and full hard. All wire will get harder and stiffer as you work with it (that’s called work hardened). So if you’re going to be weaving or coiling wire, you should work with dead soft. But if you’re making head pins or ear wires, you want it to already be stiffer, so that it maintains its shape. In that case, it’s best to buy half hard.
  • Remember, you can always harden wire more by tumbling or hammering with a nylon or rawhide mallet. Nylon and rawhide will harden without flattening.

visual wire gauge chart

Wire Gauges for Ear Wires and Other Findings

Making simple findings is one of the easiest things you can do in wire jewelry making, and by far the most useful. Imagine the money you can save if you never have to buy head pins, ear wires, jump rings, and hooks! Some general rules for the wire gauge to use for each are:

Make perfectly matched ear wire sets in minutes with the Tip of the Year!

Don’t miss the ear wire tip of the year!

Ear wires:

18g-22g  (Some people can’t tolerate a wire as fat as 18g, and 22g must be very hard to hold its shape. I find 20g half hard to be perfect for ear wires)

Examples of the different sizes and shapes of head pins you can create with different wire gauges.

Some examples of the different sizes and shapes of head pins you can create with different wire gauges.

Head pins:

18g-24g  (Of course, your bead holes will determine the size headpin you need. Pearls need the finest gauge for the tiny holes)

Jump rings:

16g-22g  (Again, your particular project will determine how thick a jump ring you need. The finer the gauge, the less secure they’ll be)

Hook clasps:

14g-18g  ( Heavier gauge wire will make a chunkier, more substantial hook clasp. Hooks made with finer gauges should be tumbled or hammered to stiffen them)

Make perfect ear wires by bending the wire around a Sharpie marker.

One great tip? You can make perfect ear wires by bending the wire around a Sharpie pen

Once you’re comfortable with making your own simple findings, you can create beautiful jewelry with custom clasps and ear wires. And you never have to run out of jump rings and head pins again. Keep reading for 4 expert wire finishing tips.

Now you’re ready to dive into the sumptuous wire jewelry making designs in Step by Step Wire Jewelry. Each issue offers over 14 new projects for every skill level. Why not treat yourself to full year of issues with the Step by Step Wire Jewelry CD Collections?


Learn to make great wire jewelry with these expert resources!

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