How to Improvise a Hat with Stash Yarn

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Knowing how to quickly work up a hat without a pattern using yarn from your stash is a great tool for creating last-minute gifts. I will walk you through the process of knitting a basic hat when you have yarn, but no pattern. To demonstrate the process, two Interweave staffers picked yarn from their stashes and knitted the hats shown here!

Knitting a Hat from Stash Yarn

Step 1: Pick Your Yarn

A 100-gram skein is typically plenty to make a knit hat for an adult.

Version 1 (green): Plymouth Yarn Homestead Tweed, an Aran-weight yarn.
Version 2 (red): Brooklyn Tweed Quarry, a bulky-weight yarn.

Step 2: Do a Gauge Swatch

First, check the ball band for the recommended gauge and needle size. But this is just a starting point. You should also knit a swatch (or more than one) with your stash yarn and adjust the needle size until you achieve a gauge that feels right to you for the hat.

Gauge swatches should be knitted in the same manner as you will be knitting the hat. However, knitting a swatch in the round could take as much time as knitting an entire hat, so you can fake an in-the-round gauge swatch on your circular or double-pointed needles.

Knitting a fake in-the-round swatch

Knit across a right-side row, but do not turn the work. Slide the stitches back to the right-hand tip of the needle and strand the working yarn very loosely across the back (let it drape), then knit across the stitches again. Repeat this process until you have several inches in length. Measure across the center, avoiding the edges, which will be sloppy. If your stitch gauge is not within 1 stitch over 4″ of your desired gauge, change the needle size and swatch again.

• The gauge recommended on the ball band for the Version 1 yarn is 16 sts/4″.

Version 1 desired gauge: 17 sts/4″, or 4.25 sts/in.

• The gauge recommended on the ball band for the Version 2 yarn is 12–14 sts/4″.

Version 2 desired gauge: 13 sts/4″, or 3.25 sts/in.

Step 3: Calculate the Size of the Hat

If it’s available, measure the head you are knitting for. Measure the head circumference just above the ears.

The body of a basic beanie-style hat is typically knit to a smaller circumference than the head so that it stretches to fit snugly, but comfortably. Usually, 10 percent negative ease is about right, or about 2″ for an adult-sized hat. Some people prefer an even snugger fit, while others prefer a looser fit, closer to the circumference of their head. (A knit hat larger than the head circumference will slide down over the eyes.) The style of hat and how it is worn can factor into fit preference. The photographed model has a 22¼” head and is shown wearing one hat (the green one) that is smaller than her head (19¾”) and another hat (the red one) that is the same circumference as her head (22¼”).

Next, measure from the base of the earlobe over the head to the base of the other earlobe.

Hat circumference = head circumference × 0.9.

Hat length = earlobe to earlobe measurement / 2.

If you can’t measure the recipient’s head, use these measurements:

Average adult head = 22″ circumference and 16″ earlobe to earlobe.

Large adult head = 24″ circumference and 18″ earlobe to earlobe.

22″ × 0.9 = 19¾” hat circumference; 16″ / 2 = 8″ hat length.

24″ × 0.9 = 21½” hat circumference; 18″ / 2 = 9″ hat length.

You don’t have to hit these measurements exactly, but try to get as close as possible, depending on your gauge and stitch pattern.

Version 1 desired hat measurements: 20″ circumference, 8″ tall.

Version 2 desired hat measurements: 22″ circumference, 9″ tall.

Step 4: Plan the Hat

For a basic knit hat, plan for the ribbing to be about 30% of the total length, the stockinette portion to be about 40%, and the crown decreases to be about 30%. Again, these are just starting points and proportions can be shifted as desired.

Version 1 actual hat length: 2¼” ribbing, 3½” hat body, 2½” crown (8¼” total length).

Version 2 actual hat length: 2½” ribbing, 3½” hat body, 3″ crown (9″ total length).

For the cast-on number, multiply your stitch gauge per inch by the desired hat circumference, then round this number, depending on the ribbing pattern used (the circumference will change slightly as a result). Round to the nearest even number if you want to use 1×1 ribbing. Round to the nearest multiple of four if you want to use 2×2 ribbing.

Version 1 hat: 20″ × 4.25 sts/in = 85 sts. 2×2 ribbing will need a multiple of four stitches: 84 sts/4.25 = 19¾”.

Version 2 hat: 22″ × 3.25 sts/in = 71.5 sts. 1×1 ribbing will need an even number of stitches: 72 sts/3.25 = 22¼”.

Step 5: Start Knitting

For the ribbing, cast on for the hat in your stash yarn using a needle two sizes smaller than the needle you swatched with. When the ribbing is the desired length, change to the larger needle and work in stockinette stitch until the hat is ready for the crown decreases.

Step 6: Calculating the Crown

The crown is the trickiest part of the knit hat. We have to figure out the number of stitches to decrease each time, as well as how many decrease rounds and plain rounds we will work.

A common method of working the crown is to divide the stitches into eight equal decrease groups, with the last two stitches of each group worked as a k2tog. This eliminates eight stitches per decrease round, and the resulting effect is eight spiraling lines of decreases.

If the number of stitches we start with isn’t a multiple of eight, we’ll have to work a set-up decrease round before dividing the hat into eight equal groups.

Version 1 hat: 84 sts / 8 = 10, with a remainder of 4 stitches. Each decrease group will start with 10 stitches. A set-up round with 4 decreases is needed.

Version 2 hat: 72 sts / 8 = 9. No set-up round is needed. Each decrease group will start with 9 stitches.

The decrease groups get smaller by one stitch each decrease round. The final round results in one stitch remaining in each group. The total number of decrease rounds is therefore one fewer than the number of starting stitches in each group.

Version 1 hat: Starts with 10 stitches in each decrease group; 9 decrease rounds needed.

Version 2 hat: Starts with 9 stitches in each decrease group; 8 decrease rounds needed.

When the number of crown decrease rounds is fewer than the number of rounds needed for the desired crown length, we will knit some plain rounds to make up the difference.

Version 1 round gauge: 23 rnds/4″, or 5.75 rnds/in. The Version 1 crown is 2½” long.

2½” × 5.75 rnds/in = 14.375 crown rounds, rounded to 14.

Out of 14 crown rounds, there is one set-up round and nine decrease rounds, so four additional plain rounds are needed. These plain rounds are worked after each of the first four decrease rounds.

Version 2 round gauge: 17 rnds/4″, or 4.25 rnds/in. The Version 2 crown is 3″ long.

3″ × 4.25 rnds/in = 12.75 crown rounds, rounded to 13.

Out of 13 crown rounds, eight are decrease rounds, so five additional plain rounds are needed. These plain rounds are worked after each of the first five decrease rounds.

Step 7: Working the Crown

Use the crown calculation to determine how to divide the first (non-set-up) decrease round into groups.

Version 1 hat: Version 1 has 80 stitches after the set-up round, or 10 stitches in each of the eight groups. The last two stitches of the group are worked as a k2tog, so the first decrease round is:

*K8, k2tog; rep from * to end—8 sts dec’d.

Version 2 hat: Version 2 has 72 stitches, or nine stitches in each of the eight groups, so the first decrease round is:

*K7, k2tog; rep from * to end—8 sts dec’d.

In each subsequent decrease round, the number of stitches knitted before the decrease will be one fewer than in the previous decrease round.

TIP: You may want to place markers to divide the stitches into groups before starting the crown decreases. Use a different color for the end-of-round marker. When working a decrease round, knit until there are two stitches before the marker and then work the k2tog.

Once you learn the process for improvising a hat, you’ll be able to turn any skein of stash yarn into a custom-made gift, without a pattern!

VERSION 1: Aran-Weight Stash Yarn Hat

Finished Size 19¾” circumference and 8¼” high.
Yarn Plymouth Yarn Homestead Tweed (90% wool, 10% Donegal wool yarn; 191 yd [175 m]/3½ oz [100 g]): #0529 Marsh, 1 skein.
Needles Size 7 (4.5 mm): 16″ circular (cir). Size 9 (5.5 mm): 16″ cir and set of double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
Notions Marker (m); tapestry needle.
Gauge 17 sts and 23 rnds = 4″ in St st on larger needle.

HAT

With smaller cir needle, CO 84 sts. Place marker (pm) and join in the rnd. Work in k2, p2 rib for 2¼”. Change to larger cir needle. Work in St st until piece measures 5¾” from CO.

Shape crown:
Note: Change to dpn when necessary.
Next rnd [K19, k2tog] 4 times—80 sts rem.
Next rnd [K8, k2tog] 8 times—72 sts rem.
Next rnd Knit.
Next rnd [K7, k2tog] 8 times—64 sts rem.
Next rnd Knit.
Next rnd [K6, k2tog] 8 times—56 sts rem.
Next rnd Knit.
Next rnd [K5, k2tog] 8 times—48 sts rem.
Next rnd Knit.
Next rnd [K4, k2tog] 8 times—40 sts rem.
Next rnd [K3, k2tog] 8 times—32 sts rem.
Next rnd [K2, k2tog] 8 times—24 sts rem.
Next rnd [K1, k2tog] 8 times—16 sts rem.
Next rnd [K2tog] 8 times—8 sts rem. Break yarn and draw tail through rem sts. Pull tight to gather sts and fasten off on WS.

Finishing

Weave in ends. Block.

VERSION 2: Bulky-Weight Stash Yarn Hat

Finished Size 22¼” circumference and 9″ high.
Yarn Brooklyn Tweed Quarry (100% American Targhee-Columbia wool; 200 yd [183 m]/3½ oz [100 g]): Garnet, 1 skein.
Needles Size 8 (5 mm): 16″ circular (cir). Size 10 (6 mm): 16″ cir and set of double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
Notions Marker (m); tapestry needle.
Gauge 13 sts and 17 rnds = 4″ in St st on larger needle.

HAT

With smaller cir needle, CO 72 sts. Place marker (pm) and join in the rnd. Work in k1, p1 rib for 2½”. Change to larger cir needle. Work in St st until piece measures 6″ from CO.

Shape crown:
Note: Change to dpn when necessary.
Next rnd [K7, k2tog] 8 times—64 sts rem.
Next rnd Knit.
Next rnd [K6, k2tog] 8 times—56 sts rem.
Next rnd Knit.
Next rnd [K5, k2tog] 8 times—48 sts rem.
Next rnd Knit.
Next rnd [K4, k2tog] 8 times—40 sts rem.
Next rnd Knit.
Next rnd [K3, k2tog] 8 times—32 sts rem.
Next rnd Knit.
Next rnd [K2, k2tog] 8 times—24 sts rem.
Next rnd [K1, k2tog] 8 times—16 sts rem.
Next rnd [K2tog] 8 times—8 sts rem. Break yarn and draw tail through rem sts. Pull tight to gather sts and fasten off on WS.

Finishing

Weave in ends. Block.

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This article appeared in Interweave Knits Gifts 2019. Header photo caption: VERSION 1: Aran-Weight Hat; VERSION 2: Bulky-Weight Hat. Updated 9/23/2021.

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Originally posted on September 30, 2019; updated on September 24, 2020.

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