How to Read a Crochet Pattern

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My mom taught me to crochet around the age of 5 years old. The odd thing is that she never once called a crochet stitch by it’s assigned name, nor did she ever learn to read a pattern. So, she taught me how she was taught, which involved memorable phrases and looking at photos of completed projects.

“Once, twice, three loops, and through” was how I learned to half double crochet (hdc). And an endless granny square blanket, that got bigger and bigger with each round, was one of the first projects I learned to make. No pattern required.  

As my crochet knowledge has expended and traditionally written patterns have become a way of life for me, my mom’s curiosity has grown. She sees the things I make and wants to know how to make them. However, when I share the pattern with her, she says “I can’t read that.” I tell her, “Yes you can!” We sit together and I translate. With each new pattern she attempts, her confidence is growing. Now I’m getting questions like “does this mean I…” rather than reading it to her and explaining.

I imagine my mom isn’t the only one who finds reading crochet patterns intimidating. If you’re like her, having someone break it all down and explain how to read it will go a long way!  

How to Read a Crochet Pattern

The first step in understanding how to read a crochet pattern is learning what you can expect to see when you open a pattern file. If you’re learning online that pattern file will be a PDF. If you’re learning at home that file may be printed in a magazine or part of a kit you purchased.   

Download the Sketch Set pattern (for free!) and follow along.  

Basic Sections of a Crochet Pattern 

While every pattern publisher has a style unique to them, there are several parts of a pattern that are standard across this industry. Every pattern you try should include these basic sections: 

Finished size – This is the size you can expect your project to be when you’re done making it.  

Yarn – Every pattern should tell you the yarn that is used in the example shown in the photos. It should also tell you how much yarn you need and how many colors.  

Hook size – Everyone crochets a little differently. Some crochet tightly, some crochet loosely. The pattern should tell you the hook size used to make the sample. The note that says to “adjust the hook size to achieve gauge” is your reminder that you might want a larger hook if you’re a tight crocheter. Or a smaller hook if you’re a loose crocheter.  

Gauge – All good patterns list gauge. This is the number of stitches and rows it takes to get to a set size using the yarn and hook called for. If your gauge is different from the pattern, the finished size of your project will be different.   

Notes – Special considerations for a pattern are listed in the notes. For example, if it is reversible a note might read, “The finished project is reversible.” Or it may say something like, “Visit our glossary for techniques you don’t know.” 

Pattern Instructions 

After the basics you’ll find the pattern instructions. It’s the good stuff. The part that tells you exactly how to make the project shown. For space, the vast majority of patterns use abbreviations to communicate the instructions. And that’s where things get tricky. Learning to read abbreviations takes practice.  

The way I’ve been teaching my mom to read the shorthand of crochet patterns is to read it out loud to her without the abbreviations and explain each step. When learning to read crochet patterns, you might find it helpful to do the same and take notes on the pattern that write out those abbreviations.  

This is how I would read the first few rounds of the Pencil case pattern to my mom: 

How it is Written 

Set-up rnd: Make an adjustable ring, 6 sc in ring, pm in first sc, pull end to tighten ring, do not join throughout. 

Rnd 1: (RS) 2 sc in each sc around—12 sc. 

Rnd 2: [Sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc] around—18 sc. 

What it Says 

Set-up round = The first round is a set-up round. It’s going to get you ready to start the first round.  

Make an adjustable ring = Make an adjustable ring. (Pretty straight forward!)

6 sc in ring, = make a single crochet in the ring. Now, make 5 more. You want 6 single crochets total.

pm in first sc, = Place a stitch marker in your very first single crochet. This is going to tell you when you get to the beginning/end of a round.  

pull end to tighten ring = This is part of the magic of an adjustable ring. You pull the tail, and the ring tightens.  

do not join throughout. = For this project, you’re not going to slip-stitch into the first stitch of the previous round to “close” the round. Instead, you’re basically going to create a coil. When you get to the end of each round, you’ll want to move your stitch marker up to be in the first stitch again.  

Rnd 1: (RS) = Now you’re ready for round 1. The side that’s facing you is the right side. It’s the outside of the pencil case.  

2 sc in each sc around = Single crochet in the top of the first stitch of the previous round. And then do another one in the same first stitch. That will be two single crochets in the top of that stitch. Now do that all the way around. You want to put two single crochets in the top of all 6 stitches.  

—12 sc. = When you get back to the stitch marker, you should have 12 single crochets total for that round.  

Rnd 2: = You guessed it. You’re starting a new round. Remember, you should have moved your stitch marker to the first stitch of this new round.  

[Sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc] around = This section is in brackets, that means you’re going to repeat something. In this case, you’re going to work a single crochet in the top of the next single crochet. (Easy!) Now, work two single crochets in the top of the next stitch. You’ll repeat those three stitches all the way round. One single crochet, then two single crochet in one. One singles crochet, then two single crochet in one.  

—18 sc. = When you get back to the stitch marker, you should have 18 single crochets in that round.  

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It may sound like reading and talking through the pattern instructions in this style is rudimentary. But it can be helpful when you’re just starting! If you still find yourself challenged when reading your first (or twentieth) crochet pattern, ask a friend to show you what each abbreviation means. In no time you’ll be looking up how to read crochet charts.

—Kerry Bogert 
Content Manager, Yarn 

Featured image: Source – Getty Images 

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