Haptical Scarf

Author

Tanja Osswald

Introduction

The scarf is called “haptical” because of the haptical aspects of the texture ; the rows of crochet feel a little hard, while the long strands of yarn are soft to the touch.

The idea to this scarf is based on the knitted Clapotis from knitty.com. This scarf looks similar, but of course, transferring knitted looks into crochet makes the actual pattern something totally different. Plus, this scarf is rectangular.

Many thanks to Otterwise, JoAnn and especially Sanhita for proofreading!

Materials List

Material – ca. 300g of sock yarn (420m/ 100g), 3mm crochet hook (if you are living in the US: use size C or D, as required, depending upon how loose or tight you crochet and the thickness of the yarn you are going to use!!)

Finished Size

Mine is 40cm x 120cm, done with 200g of sock yarn.It can be made like a shawlette by making it wider and longer.

Gauge

Not important, you see what you get while you are working on it.

One eesc row should be about as long as the esc row plus sc rows between.

Notes

Special stitches:

Elongated sc (esc) – Insert hook in next stitch, yarn over, draw loop through, yarn over, draw hook through one loop, yarn over, draw hook through both loops. It is like making an sc with a chain in the middle of the stitch.

Extra elongated sc (eesc) –Similar to making an esc, but draw the fist loop long, so you have a loop of about 3-4cm length (that is about as much as four rows of esc).

Increase eesc – [(eesc1, ch1) x3, eesc1] into the same stitch

Increase eesc at the beginning of a row – Replace the first eesc by pulling the loop of the turning chain to the size wanted.

Decrease eesc – (draw loop, yarn over, skip a st) x3, draw loop, pull yarn through all four loops

Decrease eesc at the beginning of a row – Instead of drawing the first loop, pull the loop of the turning ch to the size wanted.

The Pattern

Ch 2
Row 1 – work 2 esc into second ch from hook, ch1,
Row 2 – turn, work 2 esc in each stitch, ch1,
Row 3 – turn, work 2 esc in first stitch, 1 esc into each st till the last st, 2 esc into the last st. ch 1 (6 sts)
Row 4 – turn and repeat Row 3 (8 sts),
Row 5 – turn, increase eesc, ch1, (eesc1, ch1) till the last st, increase eesc into the last stitch, ch 1. Note: This row will be rather long and floppy; you decrease the extra fixing chains in the next row.
Row 6 – turn, work (one sc into each eesc and one sc into each chain space) in the increase eesc section of the previous row (You’ll have 7 sc here).
work 1 sc into 1 ch and 1 eesc together (in the eesc 1, ch 1 section of previous row) ,
work (one sc into each eesc and one sc into each chain space) in the increase eesc section of the previous row (You’ll have 7 sc here).
(20 sts)
Rows 7 – 10

– esc into all sts , increase one at each end of the row.

Repeat from Row 5 to Row 10, until the piece is of desired width (one of the short sides of the triangles is the width of your scarf/ shawlette).

Then continue with the repeating of Row 5 to Row 10, but decrease one st at one side and increase one st at the other side of the row (decrease for esc: work two esc together), until scarf is of the desired length.

For the ending continue in pattern, but decrease on both ends, till the last st.

Fasten off.

If you want to use up all your yarn, it is advisable to weigh the scarf after the increase section, to give you an estimate of how much yarn you will need to finish it at the end. If you start with full skeins, you can as well note how much rows you got from the first skein, and reverse the count at the end of the scarf.