Faux Skins Bins
by Anne Frost
I have two kids with lots of little things that need to be organized. I made a trip to the craft store for some baskets and I needed medical attention after seeing the prices stores were charging for plain, boring baskets. So, I decided to come up with some on my own using some scrap yarn from my stash. I added the fun fur to make them, well, fun for my kids to use.
Though the instructions given are for a set that would be appropriate for holding changing table supplies, I’ve made these in various sizes from change holders (3×1 inches) to Lego holders (8×10 inches). To change the size, simply adjust the number of rows on the bottom and sides. These will work with any type of worsted weight yarn and fun fur combo. Just make sure that the hook is several sizes smaller than recommended on the label on the worsted weight yarn. This will ensure that the basket is stiff enough to hold the contents.
- 1 skein fun fur/eyelash yarn. Example used Stylecraft Eskimo (50g, 98yds/90m) in ParmaViolet, 1 skein.
- 1 skein 4-ply light worsted weight yarn that matches at least one of the colors in the fun fur. Example used Caron Simply Soft (6oz, 330yds/302m) in Lt. Country Blue, less than 1 skein.
- size D-3 hook
- size C-2 hook
- Stitch marker or a piece of scrap yarn in contrasting color
The gauge is unimportant as long as you work as tightly as you can without damaging the yarn. The tighter you can make it, the sturdier the container will be.
Pattern is written using US conventions
Ch = chain
Sc = single crochet
Foll = following
Sl st = slip stitch
While this pattern is not technically difficult, the fact that you are using a hook that is too small for the yarn will probably result in sore fingers. If this is a problem, work on it a little bit at a time, or wrap the “grip” section of your hook in several layers of tape to make it wider and softer on your fingers. (Ed. note: We wrote about a nifty grip in the blog a few months back.)
With worsted weight yarn, ch 2.
Round 1: 8 sc in 2nd ch from hook. (8 stitches)
Round 2: Mark the beginning of the round with a stitch marker or piece of contrasting scrap yarn. (Before you begin each row, move the marker.) Do not ch 1 before starting this row. You will be working in a spiral. Work 2 sc in each sc around to marker. (16 stitches)
Round 3: *1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in foll sc.* Repeat * to * until you reach your marker. (24 stitches)
Round 4: *1 sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in foll sc.* Repeat * to * until you reach your marker. (32 stitches)
Round 5: *1 sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in foll sc.* Repeat * to * until you reach your marker. (40 stitches)
Round 6: *1 sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in foll sc.* Repeat * to * until you reach your marker. (48 stitches)
Round 7: Work 1 sc in the back-loop only of each sc around.
Round 8: Add eyelash yarn by drawing a loop through with your first stitch. As you work this round, crochet over the tail of the eyelash yarn so you don’t have to weave it in later. With worsted and eyelash yarn held together, work 1 sc in each sc around.
Rounds 9-24: Work 1 sc in each sc around.
If you want to have the inside eyelash-free, carefully trim away the hairs on the inside with a small pair of scissors.
Cut the strand of worsted yarn, leaving a 1” tail.
Switch to the C hook, and with the eyelash yarn, work 2 sc in each sc around. Work over the tail of the worsted yarn as you go.
Snip the eyelash yarn, leaving enough of a tail to weave in.
Weave in the end.
With a soft bristle brush like a toothbrush or a baby hairbrush, gently rub the sides of the container back and forth to fluff the eyelashes.
Follow the directions above for rounds 1-24.
Round 25: Ch 1, turn. Work the following in front loop only: *Sc in first 3 sc, 2 sc in following sc.* Repeat * to * all the way around.
Round 26: Working in both loops, * sc in first 4 sc, 2 sc in following sc.* Repeat * to * all the way around.
Round 27: *1 sc in first 5 sc, 2 sc in following sc.* Repeat * to * all the way around.
Follow directions for Finishing Off above.
With worsted weight yarn, ch 16.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd chain from hook and each remaining chain. Ch 1, turn.
Rows 2-24: Sc in each sc across, ch 1, turn.
Row 25: Sc in each sc across, ch 2, turn so you are working down the length of the piece. * Work 1 sc in each row of the side. Ch 2 *. Turn so you are working along the bottom of the piece. Work 1 sc in each ch of starting chain, ch 2. Turn so you are working along the final side. Repeat * to *.
Row 26: Sl st to 1st stitch of last row. Ch 1. Sc in back loop only of same stitch. Sc in back loop only of row. When you reach a corner, ch 2, skip ch-2 from previous round, sc in back loop only of next side. Continue this the entire way around the piece. At the end of the 4th side when you ch 2, pull the eyelash yarn through with the worsted as you make your second chain.
Round 1: Mark corner with a stitch marker or piece of scrap yarn. *Sc in 1st sc and in all sc until you reach a corner. Ch 2, skip ch-2 from previous round. Turn so you are working on the next side. * Repeat * to * all the way around.
Rounds 2-4: Repeat round 1.
Round 5: *Sc in 1st sc and all sc until you reach a corner. Ch 1, skip ch-2 from previous round. Turn so you are working on the next side. * Repeat * to * all the way around.
Follow directions for Finishing Off above. Working 2 sc in each sc and chain space around.
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