7 Tips for a Custom Fit Crochet Sweater

Is it crochet sweater weather yet? I’m ready to start crocheting and wearing crochet sweaters. Fall temperatures will be here before we know it, so let’s go ahead and get started. One of my favorite things about crocheting my own sweaters is the fact that I can customize them for a perfect fit.

If you are perfect off the shelf (or straight from the crochet pattern) measurements count yourself lucky. I’ve always had to modify sweater patterns for a perfect fit on my short torso. I have friends who have to modify sleeve depth or bust size. But crocheting your own sweater allows you to make custom modifications for a sweater that looks like it was crocheted just for you–because it was.

The first step for a custom fit is to take accurate measurements. In addition to your bust and waist, write down measurements for arm length, the length of your torso, your armhole depth and any other measurement where you have difficulty with sweater fit. You might want to take measurements off of a sweater or top that fits you really well.

4 Tips for Choosing the Perfect Sweater Pattern

Once you have your list of ideal measurements, you need to pick your crochet sweater pattern. Choose your pattern and write down or mark this important information.

1. The crochet sweater construction. Is the sweater crocheted in one piece from the top down or worked in the round from bottom up? Is it worked in multiple pieces and seamed or worked from side to side? The method of construction will dictate many of your options for customization.
   
2. Locate the pattern schematic. The schematic should give you the measurements for the crochet sweater if worked according to the pattern. This information is invaluable because it gives you a general roadmap for where you need to make customizations. Do you need one size for the bust but another for the waist and hip measurements? What is the armhole depth for the pattern? Take note of where you need to make alterations.
   
3. Take note of the stitch pattern. Is the sweater worked in single or double crochet (very easy to modify), a lace pattern (a little more difficult but still doable) or even in joined motifs (there are a few tricks for these)?
   
4. The gauge swatch measurements. You can’t get away with skipping the gauge swatch when you want to make customizations. If you are making changes, you want to make sure that you are working from the correct size to begin with. It is also helpful to be able to see how smaller sections of the stitch pattern translate to measurements.

3 Ways to Modify a Crochet Sweater for a Perfect Fit

Armed with your measurements, crochet pattern and notes, it is time to start planning your customizations. Here are three options for modifying crochet sweater patterns for the perfect fit.

1. Too long or too short.

If a sweater is too long or too short, you can delete or add rows. This is easiest to do with top down crochet sweaters like those in Doris Chan’s Top Down Seamless Crochet video workshop. When you crochet from the top down, you can try the sweater on and check your fit as you crochet. If you are working from the bottom up or in pieces that will be seamed together, your gauge swatch becomes critical. Use your gauge swatch, schematic and written pattern to determine where you need to decrease or increase rows. Is there waist shaping? Should the alteration happen above or below that shaping? If you are lengthening the armhole, add rows to the armhole area of the pattern. Remember to keep in mind your neckline and how these modifications will affect the neckline. If you are crocheting sweater pieces, make sure you work the same modification on the front and back pieces.

2. Adding additional shaping at the bust or hip.

Need a little more room at the bust or hip of your crochet sweater? Or maybe you need to nip the waist in just a little bit more. There are actually several options for you. The easiest option is to increase or decrease stitches for a few rows at the bust or hips. If you are increasing for the bust, you won’t want to make those increases on the back of the sweater. For larger increases, you can also work short rows to add additional material. Short Rows in Crochet: Learn Shaping and Texture Techniques with Jennifer Raymond is a great introduction to crochet short rows.

3. Shaping motif crochet sweaters.

But what if your crochet sweater is composed of crochet motifs? Adding or decreasing rows of motifs would make a very dramatic difference, probably too dramatic. Your answer might be additional gauge swatches. How much of a difference does going up down one crochet hook size make? How about two sizes? Don’t make the size change too dramatic or it will be difficult to join your smaller or larger motifs to their normal sized counterparts.

Don’t settle for a poorly fitting crochet sweater. Customize it for the perfect fit and create a stylish and warm wardrobe before the temperatures of fall begin to cool.

Happy crocheting,
Toni