Crochet Finger Puppets – Fairy Tales at Your Fingertips (Some Assembly Required)

---

Author

by Melissa Mall

Introduction

When I was young we had a set of little, simple finger puppets that my mom would pull out of her purse for us to play with when we had to sit still and be quiet. You know, at the doctor’s office, at church, in the car… Now that I’m a mom, I decided that I wanted to make a set. I grew increasingly frustrated, however, with the absolute lack of good finger puppet patterns available. “Come on, people!” I thought. “How hard can it be to design such a little thing?” At which point I bonked myself on the forehead and pulled out some yarn.

I was right – it was easy.

These free finger puppet patterns are great for using up bits and pieces of yarn that are too big to just (gasp!) throw away, but too small to use for a larger project. (Can’t even get a potholder out of it? No problem.) They’re also a fantastic use for all of that yucky, stiff, worsted weight yarn you bought when you started crocheting and didn’t know better — of course, if you bought a lot of it, you’re going to have to make a finger puppet army, aren’t you? At any rate, the crocheting in this pattern is simple — almost all single crochet, and so suitable for the beginner who is sick of granny squares and scarves, but hopefully interesting enough to make a fun diversion for the more experienced crafter. I know it was for me!

Materials List

• Yarn: No specifics here! Small amounts of various colors in 4-ply worsted weight. Clean out that closet! (I used Red Heart Super Saver.)
• US G-6 hook (4.25mm)
• A yarn needle
• A teeny amount of stuffing or fiberfill.

Gauge

12 sc x 16 rows = 4”x4”

Notes

US terminology used throughout:
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
dec = decrease
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
lp = loop
rnd = round
sk = skip
sl st = slip stitch
st = stitch

All decreases in these patterns are worked by drawing up a loop from each of the next 2 stitches, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops. Join the end of each round with a slip stitch to the first st in the round.

The Pattern

Dragon

What could be cooler than a dragon? Follow these instructions and he’ll be spouting flames in no time!

Body

The dragon is made with my Big Finger Base, which in your own designs and variations would be suitable for elephants, giants, papa bears, etc. You know big stuff.

(I used a dark green yarn for this.)

To begin, ch 4, join in a ring with a sl st. Ch 1.

Round 1: Sc 6 times in the ring. Join rnd, ch 1.

Round 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12 sc total). Join rnd, ch 1.

Note: now would be a good time to weave in and clip your beginning tail of yarn, as once you get to the bottom, you likely won’t be able to get at it.

Round 3: Sc in each sc around. Join rnd, ch 1.

Round 4-12: Rep Row 3.

Round 13: Sc in first two sc, sc dec over next two sc, *sc in next two sc, sc dec over next two sc*, rep from * to * around (9 sc total). Join rnd with a sl st to the first sc. Finish off and weave in ends.

Nose

(Use same yarn as for body.)

To begin, ch 4, join in a ring with a sl st. Ch 1.

Round 1: Sc 8 times in the ring, join rnd, ch 1.

Round 2 & 3: Sc in each sc around (8 sc total). Join rnd, ch 1.

Round 4: Sc in each sc around. Finish off, leaving enough of a tail to sew the nose on (I usually leave at least 8″).

Sew nose to body, using a little wad of filling to stuff it.

Ears (make 2)

(Use same yarn as for body.)

To begin, ch 4. Sl st in second ch from hook, sc in next ch, dc in next ch.

Finish off, leaving a tail of yarn to sew it on with. Sew ears to head.

Neck Ridge

(You can use the same yarn as for the body or a contrasting color: I used a red yarn for this)

To begin, ch 8. Sl st in the 7th ch from hook, rep 6 times for a total of 7 ch-7 loops.

Finish off, leaving a tail of yarn to sew it on with. Sew down center back.

Tongue

I threaded a piece of red yarn through the bottom of the nose and tied a series of square knots to the desired length and then clipped the ends.

A series of chain stitches sewn on would have a similar effect.

To finish, embellish with yarn or embroidery floss as desired.

---

Knight

What else could be next but a knight in crocheted armor? My husband pointed out that he has no sword, but dashing good looks and a spiffy crest should be enough to scare off that dragon… right?

Body

The knight is made with my Medium Finger Base, suitable for people, medium-sized animals, mama bears, etc. A good, generic finger puppet size.

(I used a tan yarn for this.)

To begin, ch 4 and join in a ring with a sl st. Ch 1.

Round 1: Sc 5 times in the ring. Join rnd, ch 1.

Round 2: 2 sc in each sc around (10 sc total). Join rnd, ch 1.

Note: now would be a good time to weave in and clip your beginning tail of yarn, as once you get to the bottom, you likely won’t be able to get at it.

Round 3: Sc in each sc around . Join rnd, ch 1.

Round 4-10: Rep row 3.

Round 11: Sc in each sc around (10 sc total) . Join rnd, ch 1. Finish off and weave in ends.

Helmet

(Use a contrasting color – I used gray.)

To begin, ch 4 and join in a ring with a sl st. Ch 1.

Round 1: Sc 5 times in the ring. Join rnd, ch 1.

Round 2: 2 sc in each sc around (10 sc total) . Join rnd, ch 1.

Row 3: Sc in each of next 8 sc, leaving the last 2 sc of the rnd unworked. Ch 1, turn.

Row 4: Sc in each sc. Ch 1, turn.

Round 5: Sc in each sc, ch 6. Join with a sl st to the first sc of the row. (It should look kind of like an itty-bitty football helmet at this point.)

Round 6: Ch 1, sc in same sc and in each of the next 7 sc for a total of 8 sc. Begin working in ch: sc in first ch, hdc in next ch, 2 dc in next ch, hdc in next ch, sc in last ch. Join to first sc with a sl st. Finish off, leaving a tail of yarn to sew helmet to body but don’t sew it on yet.

For the plume, use a second contrasting color (I used red).

Ch 10, sl st in 9th ch from hook. Ch 12, sl st in 12th ch from hook, then sl st in the very first ch from previous loop.

Finish off, leaving enough yarn to sew plume to center top of helmet, pointing towards the back. The larger loop belongs above the smaller one.

Sew helmet to head.

Armor

(Use same yarn as for helmet.)

Row 1: Ch 5, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch thereafter (4 sc total). Ch 1, turn.

Row 2: 2 sc in first sc, sc in each of next 2 sc, 2 sc in last sc. (6 sc total) Ch 1, turn.

Row 3: Sc in each sc across. Ch 1, turn.

Row 4: Sc in each sc across. Finish off, leaving a tail of yarn long enough to sew the armor to the body.

Sew armor to center front of body, with Row 1 at the top, and Row 4 even with the bottom of the body.

Cape

(Use same yarn as for the plume.)

Row 1: Ch 13, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch thereafter (12 sc total). Ch 1, turn.

Row 2-4: Sc in each sc across. Ch 1, turn.

Row 5: Sc in each of first 2 sc, hdc in each of next 2 sc, dc in each of next 4 sc, hdc in each of next 2 sc, sc in each of last 2 sc. Finish off and weave in ends.

Sew to body centered in the back with Row 1 at the top and Row 5 at the bottom. Be careful to overlap the edges of the armor in front.

For cloak chain, use another contrasting color (I used yellow).

Ch 7 and finish off, leaving a tail of yarn. Sew to top corners of cape at each end of chain: Trim or conceal yarn ends so that it looks neat.

To finish, embellish with yarn or embroidery floss as desired.

---

Noble Steed

Every knight needs his trusty steed to help him out– and who can say which is more handsome?

Body

Make a medium finger base, as for knight. (I used white.)

Nose

Using same color as for body, ch 4, join in a ring with a sl st. Ch 1.

Round 1: Work 6 sc in the ring. Join rnd, ch 1.

Round 2: Sc in each sc around (6sc total). Join rnd, ch 1.

Round 3: Sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in each of next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in last sc (8 sc total). Join rnd, ch 1.

Round 4: Sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in each of next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc. (10 sc total). Join rnd, do not ch.

Row 5: Sl st across next 5 sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 6: Dc in first sl st, 2 dc in next st, dc in each of the next 2 st, 2 dc in next sl st, dc in sc from row 4. (8 dc total)

Finish off, leaving a tail of yarn long enough to sew nose to body — about 8 to 10 inches of yarn. Stuff the end of the nose with a small amount of filling and sew to body so that the center of row 6 nearly meets the center of the body’s 1st rnd.

Ears (make 2)

Ch 4, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, sl st in last ch, ch 1. End off, leaving a tail of yarn. Sew to head, curved side facing forward.

Mane

Ch 15, fasten off. Cut 15 5-inch strands of yarn; thread one piece through each ch and knot at the base.

*Note* Do not make a square knot, rather hold the ends together and knot as one strand.

Sew mane down center back of body and up between the ears.

Trim to desired length. I found that pressing it to one side gave him a dashing look. It also helped if I moistened the yarn of the mane a bit.

Bridle

In a contrast color, ch 13; sl st in 1st ch to form a ring.

Ch 20 and, being careful not to twist the chain, attach with a sl st to the ch-13 ring, opposite the beginning of the ch-20. Fasten off.

In the 5th ch from the ch-13 ring, attach yarn and ch 11; attach with a sl st in 5th ch on the other side of the ch-20 loop. Finish off, leaving a long tail of yarn, about 12 inches. Weave in loose ends (excluding the long tail) and sew to head around all of the various straps.

To finish, embellish with yarn or embroidery floss as desired.

---

Damsel

Every damsel should be so lucky — ruffles… braids… a pointy hat… What else could you possibly wish for?

Body

The damsel is made with my Little Finger Base, ideal for babies, children, small animals, baby bears, and ladies. Little stuff.

(I used white yarn for this.)

To begin, ch 4 and join in a ring with a sl st. Ch 1.

Round 1: Work 4 sc in the ring. Join rnd, ch 1.

Round 2: 2 sc in each sc around (8 sc). Join rnd, ch 1.

Note: now would be a good time to weave in and clip your beginning tail of yarn, as once you get to the bottom, you likely won’t be able to get at it.

Round 3: Sc in each sc around. Join rnd, ch 1.

Round 4-8: Rep row 3.

Round 9: Sc in each sc around. Join rnd, finish off, and weave in ends.

Dress

(Use yarn of any desired color for dress – I used light blue.)

To begin, ch 17.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch thereafter (16 sc total). Ch 1, turn.

Row 2: Sc in first sc, sc dec across the next 2 sts, *sc in each of next 4 sc, sc dec across the next 2 sts* twice; sc in last sc (13 sc total). Ch 1, turn.

Row 3: Sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc, *sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc. Rep from * across, ending with 1 sc remaining, sc (19 sc total). Ch 1, turn.

Row 4: Sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, *sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc. Rep from * across, ending with 1 sc remaining, sc (31 sc total). Ch 1, turn.

Row 5: Sc in first sc, 3 sc in next sc *sc, 3 sc in next sc. Rep from * across, ending with 1 sc remaining, sc, (61 sc total). Do not ch, turn.

Row 6: Sl st in first sc, *ch 5, sk 3 sc, sl st in 4th sc. Rep from * across. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Wrap around body and sew on (obviously, the ruffled end goes DOWN), being sure to at least tack it down to the top of row 3.

I accented the dress with a ‘belt’ of darker blue yarn.

Hair

(Use a contrasting color for this, suitable for hair – I used yellow.)

Ch 4, sl st in 4th ch from hook. *Ch 5, sl st in 4th ch from hook.* Rep from * to *. *Ch 20, sl st in 19th ch from hook.* Rep from * to * 3 times.

Join to the very first ch with a sl st, so that you have formed a ring of loops.

Reversing direction (so that you are going back the way you came), ch 20, sl st through the middle of the base of the last ch-19 lp. *Ch 20, sl st between the next two ch-19 lps. Ch 20, sl st through the middle of the base of the next ch-19 lp.*

Rep from * to * twice. Sc through the base of the ch-4 lp, repeating twice through the next two ch-4 lps. (3 sc)

Using the ring of loops as a base, evenly space 6 sc around so that you end next to the sc made in the first ch-4 lp. Join rnd. (9 sc total)

Skipping the first sc, make 4 sc decreases around the ring.

Finish off leaving a tail of yarn sufficient to sew the hair to the head. Weave yarn through the last 4 sts and pull tight so that there is no hole in the ‘scalp.’

Sew hair to head.

Hat

(Use the same color as for the dress.)

Row 1: Ch 3, 3 dc in 3rd ch from hook. Ch 2, turn.

Row 2: 2 dc in first dc, dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc (5 dc total). Ch 2, turn.

Row 3: Dc in first dc, 2 dc in next dc, dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc, dc in last dc (7 dc total). Ch 2, turn.

Row 4: 2 dc in first dc, dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc, dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc, dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc. (11 dc total)

Finish off, leaving enough yarn to sew the hat together. But don’t do that yet!

For streamers, use a contrast colored yarn (I used a darker blue).

Ch 20, fasten off. Rep 2 times.

Trim all yarn ends so that the chains look neat, and sew to the wrong side of the hat with the streamers sticking out of the small end.

Sew hat so that it forms a cone, streamers coming out the top, and sew the hat to the head.

Embellish with yarn or embroidery floss as desired.

There now, isn’t she pretty?