Convergence Top: A Few Top Tips

Are you crocheting the fabulous Convergence Top by Linda Skuja from the cover of the Spring 2014 issue of Interweave Crochet?

Here are a few top tips to get you started.


Instead of working a starting chain, then a row of double crochet, work them both at the same time! A row of foundation double crochet is stretchier than a chain, and, to my mind, less pesky than working into a chain.

If you haven't done fdc before, you can learn how to do it right here.

You'll want to work the number of fdc given in parentheses at the end of Row 1 (rather than working the number of chains given at the beginning, because that number includes the ch 3 for the first dc). So, for the first size, you'll work 67 st.

Instead of working a Ch 3 at the beginning of a row, I like to work a linked double crochet (ldc). This eliminates the slight gap at the beginning of the row.

You can learn how to do that here.

Note that you work only the first stitch as an ldc. The rest of the row is regular dc.

ALSO: on row 9, add one stitch to the first stitch count. So, for instance, for the first size, you will work in 34 st instead of 33 st (this is because when you work a ch 3, it counts as the first st and you skip that st)

Whether you work ch 3 or work an ldc, slide a stitch marker into the first stitch, so you don't "lose" it on the next row.

And, yes, I do use all those stitch markers on the short rows. It's very easy to confuse a sl st with a ch 1 at the end of the short row. The markers make stitching back a snap.

I also use a stitch marker to mark how far across I need to crochet on Rows 11, 13, and 15. That way, I can just merrily stitch along without stopping to count.

When you're working a sl st in a ch, insert your hook between the top two loops and the bottom ridge loop (rather than just into the chain space). This is tidier.

Slip stitch loosely in all instances! You will need to work into those sl st later.


When you work the row of dc, insert the hook under the two loops of the sl st (NOT just one loop and NOT picking up a loop from the previous row).

ALSO: After working Row 18 (first row of dc after sl st), count your stitches!

After you work the row of dc, the sl st row will be more apparent on one side than another (see the ridge under the blue row at top, and the reverse side, which shows no ridge). And after you work the second short-row section, you'll notice that the ridge is on the opposite side. So you will have just one ridge on the outside (or inside, if you choose).

I kind of like this. If you do not like, you'll need to adapt. After the second slip-stitch row, break the yarn and work the next row of dc starting from the other end of the row. This will put both ridges on one side of the fabric.

NOW, you will have to decide if that is the inside or the outside of the garment.

THEN, because the Front is a mirror image of the Back, you will have to reverse your preference for the back. So, after the FIRST row of sl st, break the yarn and work the dc from the opposite site. For the second row of sl st, follow the pattern as written.

Confused? It's somewhat clearer when you work the pattern. Really.

So, there are your top tips! Stay tuned for another blog on how to get a custom fit for the fabulous Convergence Top.



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