Betty’s Tunisian Tee: Finding the Stitches

Remember the advice to never start a new pattern late at night? I'm pretty sure I gave that advice myself during the last crochet-along. Too bad I didn't listen to myself. I had the first base triangle about a third of the way done when I realized that I had missed half of the second set-up row. Oh well, practice makes perfect right, and I did notice that my stitches were more even on the second go-round.

I am using Cascade Yarns Cotton Rich DK in a beautiful sunny yellow. This cotton and nylon yarn lacks the shine of the Stitch Diva Studios Studio Silk used for the original sample. However, I think I will like the memory the nylon brings to the table, and the yarn, made up of 3 two-plys, has great stitch definition.

I also used a foundation single crochet in place of the original chain and single crochet row. The foundation single crochet has more elasticity than a chain, great for the hips. But in order to begin the first set-up row on the right side, I had to fasten off and join the yarn at the beginning of the row.

Let's talk about the first base triangle. You will notice that the return passes worked for the base triangle vary from the normal return pass which begins by yarning over and drawing through one loop. Make sure you yarn over and draw through two loops for each return pass stitch on the base triangle. This is what creates the angle for the right side of your triangle. Now we can look at exactly which stitches to work in. If you want to see larger versions of any of the photographs, just click on them.

  Beginning with Row 2, you will be working at an angle to the original chain. The loop on your hook counts as the first stitch, so insert your hook between the vertical bars of the second stitch from the hook. Try turning your work so that the stitches you are working in (i.e. the left side of the triangle you are creating) are straight and the original chain angles. I didn't do this for the photographs, but found that this really helped for my first few rows. When I tried to work into the stitch while keeping the original chain flat I found that the vertical bars of the stitches tried to masquerade as horizontal bars.
     
 

Pick up a loop in each stitch across, remembering to work a Tunisian knit stitch in a previous Tunisian knit stitch and a Tunisian purl stitch in a previous Tunisian purl stitch.

     
  I found that it is the last three stitches that can be a bit tricky.The third to last stitch might look like the last stitch of the row, but don't worry. Just pick up a loop in this stitch.
     
  The second to last stitch is actually the last stitch you picked up on the previous row. It looks like the row end. Insert your hook here just as you would on a row end and pull up a loop. I found that counting each loop I picked up helped me. After this stitch, you should have picked up as many loops as stitches you worked in the last row.
     
  The final stitch of the row in worked in the set-up row. This is the stitch that makes sure your triangle continues to grow across the original set-up rows.
     

As you begin working not only Tunisian knit stitches but Tunisian purl as well, you may notice that the Tunisian purl stitches aren't quite as tall as the Tunisian knit, giving the left edge a bit of a wave. Don't worry this will block out.

Let me know if still have questions about where to work the stitches as well as any areas you would like to see a blog about.

Best wishes,

 

 

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