Make a Cabochon Bezel with Right-Angle Weave
Making an open-backed bezel for a cabochon has certain advantages over making one using bead embroidery techniques. If you’re using a transparent or translucent cabochon, stitching an open-backed bezel for it will allow light to pass through it and make it brighter. Or when using a transparent cabochon, you don’t want the color of the bead embroidery backing to show through, it makes more sense to stitch an open-backed bezel for it.
You can make beaded bezels with peyote stitch and brick stitch, but I recently started using right-angle weave for some of my open-backed bezels. Using a strip of right-angle weave to create a bezel results in a better fit and a tighter bezel around your precious cabochons!
- 1 gram of size 11o seed beads in one or more colors to match or contrast with cabochon
- 1 gram of size 15o seed beads in color to match or contrast with cabochon
- 6 lb. Fireline or beading thread of your choice
- Size 12 beading needle
- Scissors of thread cutter
- Chain nose pliers (optional, but helpful)
Step By Step Directions:
Step 1. Start by making a strip of right-angle weave to fit around the bezel. Use four beads for each unit. For the last unit, you’ll only need to add one bead to the top and one bead to the bottom of the strip to join the ends. If the bezel is slightly loose, that’s okay — you can tighten it later.
Step 2. Exiting from one of the beads on the outer edge of the bezel, pick up another size11o bead and stitch through the next bead on the outer edge of the bezel. Fill in each space between beads in the right-angle weave bezel with another bead. I used a contrasting color for this row so that I could see where I was stitching.
Make a step-up at the end of the round like you do when working in tubular even-count peyote stitch.
Step 3. Working in peyote stitch, add a round of size 15o beads between each of the size 11o beads that you just added in the previous round.
Keep your tension tight as you work. Insert the cabochon into the bezel.
Step 4. Flip the cabochon and bezel over, and start stitching a round of 11o beads in between the beads along the outer edge of the strip of right-angle weave. Again, keep your tension tight as you stitch.
Step 5. Make a step up at the end of the round, and add a second round with the size 15o seed beads. Continue to work with a tight tension to make a secure bezel.
Step 6. A right-angle weave bezel is easy to embellish! Add fringe beads like magatamas or drop beads, pearls, or crystals.
Right-angle weave bezels are also easier to join together when stitching up several components for a beaded necklace or beaded bracelet. The spaces between the beads in the right-angle weave units make it easier to work your needle into the beads!
Have you tried making right-angle weave bezels? Share your tips with us in the comments below!
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