| Introduction – From casual to formal, the
kimono shape has transcended time and for centuries has been a fashion cornerstone
for peasantry and nobility alike.
Kimono Basics
– The Japanese kimono is a timeless garment that is based on the simplest
construction involving nothing but rectangular pieces of cloth.
Design Your Own Kimono – The basic rectangular
shape of a kimono makes it the easiest of all garments to design for knitting.
Katsuri Sodenashi – Ikat is the Malay word known
worldwide for the process call katsuri in Japanese.
Dogi (Vest) – Stunningly beautiful striped patterns
have woven their way through kimono fashion for centuries.
Indigo Noragi – Indigo is a common dyestuff, but
the colors it produces are anything but commonplace.
Waves – Uchikake is an elegant outer robe worn
unbelted over kimono, a style that originated during the Muromachi period. In
a blending of attributes of various time periods of kimono history, this kimono
has clean graphic images of water in kata suso with a hint of the formal padded
hem of the uchikake.
Reeds & Grasses – During the Edo period (1600-1867),
the chonin, or urban artisans and merchants, expanded their wealth through commerce
in the burgeoning seaport of Osaka in western Japan. This is when the sogisode
emerged, an excessively long sleeve design with machete-shaped curved outer sleeves.
Noragi – Noragi, literally field wear, were rural
garments woven from bast (plant) fibers such as hemp and ramie, known collectively
in Japan as asa.
Suikan – The Kamakura period in the late twelfth
century was an age of military efficiency rather than courtly luxury. This kimono
has a simple texture and unusual shape.
Iki – The Meiji Restoration (1868-1912) marked
a return to understated elegance following an era of colorful flamboyance and
extravagance. This expression of style called iki emphasized muted colors and
elaborate but barely visible woven patterns.
Dofku – Dofku were short jackets worn by samuri
generals over their amor on the battlefield or over kosode at home for relaxation.
Komon – Komon are small, textural pattern repeats
worked in a single color or small-scale stencil-resist designs worked in subdued
colors.
Medallions & Scrolls – During the Kamakura
period (1185-1333), extremely skilled artisans wove rich brocade fabrics featuring
small repeating patterns.
Haori with Crests – A wafuku jacket, or haori,
is shorter version of kimono that originated for males. The exquisite hand of
the bamboo fiber in this knitted version lends itself well to the formal type
of kimono.
Fan Kimono –
Hitoe, similar to the older term katabira, is an unlined robe. In modern terms,
it is reserved for the summer months and is made of cotton or silk.
Bold Chevron – Noh drama emerged in its present
form in the late fourteenth century. Textile artists for Noh theater combined
themes from nature and used geometric shapes with extraordinary sensitivity, at
times bold and others delicate.
Water & Sky – Japanese architecture harmonizes
with the environment, weather, and geography. This kimono is a blend of pale natural
colors that represent the reflection of sunlight as water trickles over a rocky
steambed.
Taiko Happi – Happi coats originated as Japanese
loose overcoats of unlined cotton with the family crest or emblem on the upper
back. They were everyday short coats worn by workers with somewhat fitted pants
for men or with very loose pants and aprons for women.
Kabuki Theater
– Kabuki theater originated from kabuki odori, a kind of dance performed
in Kyoto in the early Edo period (seventeenth century). The rich opulence of the
stage found its way into everyday wardrobe.
Samurai Jinbaori – The jinbaori started as surcoats
worn over armor by military commanders during the Warring States period from the
late fourteenth to the nineteenth century.
Glossary
Resources
Bibliography
Index
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