Interweave Knitting Terms & Glossary

Welcome to the Interweave Knitting Terms and Glossary!

Our knitting experts do an excellent job at keeping this must-read glossary up-to-date with the latest knitting terms and abbreviations. From the applied I-cord to the whipstitch, our complete knitting glossary will help you master all of the latest and most common knitting terms like a pro. Not only do these knitting definitions help you understand the meaning of knitting terms, but they also provide instructions for how to master new stitches and techniques that help you create wonderful new knitting projects that you’ll be proud to share.

We also enhanced the Interweave Knitting Terms and Glossary with excellent images, diagrams and videos so that you can see first-hand just how to LEARN THE MOST POPULAR KNITTING STITCHES AND STYLES. As your resource for all things knitting-related, we’re happy to help you improve your skills or start from scratch. These knitting terms are excellent for those who are experts in the field and want to grow their knowledge base as well as knitters who are brand-new to fiber arts.

If there are knitting terms that you think should be added to our glossary, please CONTACT US! Click on one of the links below to expand that section of the knitting terms.

Please see our KNITTING ABBREVIATION LIST for standard knitting abbreviations.

Learn about knitting terms below:

1 – ∞

Work to where you want the ­buttonhole to begin, bring yarn to front, slip one purlwise, bring yarn to back (Figure 1). *Slip one purlwise, pass first slipped stitch over second; repeat from * one (two, three, four) more time(s). Place last stitch back on left needle (Figure 2), turn. Cast on three (four, five, six) stitches as follows: *Insert right needle between the first and second stitches on left needle, draw up a loop, and place it on the left needle (Figure 3); repeat from * two (three, four, five) more times, turn. Bring yarn to back, slip first stitch on left needle onto right needle and pass last cast-on stitch over it (Figure 4), work to end of row.

figure 1.
figure 2.
figure 3.
figure 4.

[Sl 1 kwise wyb] 2 times, sl 1 pwise wyb, drop yarn, *pass 2nd st on right needle over first (center) st, sl center st back to left needle, pass 2nd st on left needle over center st,* sl center st back to right needle, rep from * to * once, p1 or k1, as directed—4 sts dec’d.

A

If there are no established stitches, begin with a slipknot, knit one stitch in slipknot and slip this new stitch knitwise to left needle. *For a purl stitch, insert right needle from back to front between first two stitches on left needle. Wrap yarn as if to purl. Draw yarn through to complete stitch and slip this new stitch knitwise to the left needle. For a knit stitch, insert right needle from front to back between first two stitches on left needle. Wrap yarn as if to knit. Draw yarn through to complete stitch and slip this new stitch knitwise to the left needle. Repeat from *.

 

When attaching to an edge without live stitches: With double-pointed needle, cast on number of stitches directed in pattern. With right side of garment facing, *pick up and knit one stitch from edge, slide stitches to opposite end of double-pointed needle, knit to last two stitches, knit two together through the back loop; repeat from * for I-cord.

 

B


Insert threaded needle under two rows, right next to the selvedge, and up through both layers of fabric. Count back one row and insert the needle under the next two rows. Continue this circular motion-ahead two rows from where the working yarn emerged from the previous row, and then back one row.

Backstitch

 

Working from right to left, one stitch in from selvage, bring threaded needle up through both pieces of knitted fabric (Figure 1), then back down through both layers a short distance (about a row) to the right of the starting point (Figure 2). *Bring needle up through both layers a row-length to the left of backstitch just made (Figure 3), then back down to the right, in same hole used before (Figure 4). Repeat from *, working backward one row for every two rows worked forward.

Learn how to do the backstitch seam in knitting with these 4 steps!

 

*Loop working yarn as shown and place it on needle backward (with right leg of loop in back of needle). Repeat from *.

 

Knit into a stitch and leave it on the needle (Figure 1). Knit through the back loop of the same stitch (Figure 2). Slip both stitches off the needle (Figure 3).

 

Embroidery

    1. Draw a pair of parallel lines where the stitching will go. Pull the needle through from the back of the fabric to the front at the edge of the lower line.

    1. Insert the needle into the fabric at the upper line. Bring it back out the lower line directly below where it was inserted and with the point over the thread as it is coming out of the fabric.

    1. Pull up the stitch to form a loop. Repeat Steps 2 and 3.

Blanket Stitch

 

Buttonhole Stitch

Working into edge half-stitch of the knitted piece, *bring tip of threaded needle in and out of a knitted stitch, place working yarn under needle tip, then bring threaded needle through the stitch and tighten. Repeat from *, always bringing threaded needle on top of working yarn.

 

C

If there are no established stitches, begin with a slipknot, knit one stitch in slipknot and slip this new stitch to left needle. *Insert right needle ­be­tween first two stitches on left needle (Figure 1). Wrap yarn as if to knit. Draw yarn through to complete stitch (Figure 2) and slip this new stitch to left ­needle as shown (Figure 3). Repeat from *.

Casting on lays the foundation for your knitting project. It is the method by which stitches are formed that you then knit or purl to form your knitted item. Download our free eBook to learn more about how to Cast-On.

See also:

  • Backward Loop Cast-On
  • Cable Cast-On
  • Chain Edge Cast-On
  • Channel Island Cast-On
  • Continental Cast-On
  • Crochet Provisional Cast-On
  • Invisible Provisional Cast-On
  • Knitted Cast-On
  • Middle East Wrap Cast-On
  • Provisional Cast-On
  • Tubular Cast-On

Knit into the back and front of the next stitch on the left needle, then insert the tip of the left needle behind the vertical strand that runs between the two stitches just made (Figure 1) and knit the strand through its back loop—two stitches increased (Figure 2).

Learn how to do the centered double increase in knitting with the first step of these expert instructions!

Figure 1.

The second and final step of the centered double increase knitting method.

Figure 2.

 

Bring threaded needle out from back to front at center of a knitted stitch. Form a short loop and insert needle back where it came out. Keeping the loop under the needle, bring needle back out in center of next stitch to the right.

This cast-on method is worked with a crochet hook and can be used in one of two ways: as a decorative cast-on that forms a tidy chain and perfectly matches the bind-off row, or as a provisional cast-on. If the decorative cast-on is desired, use the working yarn for the crochet chain. For a provisional cast-on, use waste yarn for the chain and then knit a plain row with the working yarn (the provisional cast-on is not complete until there is a row of working yarn stitches on the needle).

Place a slipknot on crochet hook. Hold knitting needle and yarn in your left hand and hook in your right hand, with yarn under needle. Place hook over needle, wrap yarn around hook and pull loop through loop on hook (Figure 1). *Bring yarn to back under needle, wrap yarn around hook, and pull it through loop on hook (Figure 2). For the decorative cast-on, repeat from * until there is one fewer than the desired number of stitches on needle. Slip loop from hook to needle for last stitch. For the provisional cast-on, repeat from * until the desired number of stitches are on the needle and then chain a few more stitches without placing them on the needle to secure the chain before fastening off.

 

Watch the video for further instructions:

The Channel Island cast-on makes a decorative picot edging that’s also elastic but firm. This cast-on was originally used on the hems of fisherman sweaters, thus the name Channel Island. It pairs beautifully with k1, p1 ribbing or garter stitch.

    1. Holding three strands of yarn together, make a slipknot about six inches from the ends and place it on the right needle (this does not count as a stitch). Divide the three strands, using a single strand as the working yarn and the two remaining strands as the tail.

    1. Place the single strand around the index finger. Wrap the two strand tail counterclockwise around the thumb so that two wraps are visible below your thumbnail. Make a yarn over on the needle with the single strand (Figure 1).

    1. Beginning at the base of the thumb, slide the needle up through both loops on the thumb, then bring it over the single strand, going to the index finger to grab it, then go back down through the two loops on the thumb (Figure 2). Drop the thumb loops and tighten all three yarns. Repeat Steps 2 and 3 for the desired number of stitches; each repeat creates two stitches.

The Channel Island cast-on pairs beautifully with k1, p1 ribbing or garter stitch.

The Channel Island cast-on

Step 1: Channel Island cast-on

Step 2: Channel Island cast-on

Illustrations by Gayle Ford

Distribute the stitches over your chosen needles and remove the slipknot from the needles (but don’t undo it) before joining for working in the round, knitting the “beaded” stitches and purling the yarn overs. Undo the slipknot just before weaving in the tails.

For more cast-ons and bind-offs, check out our free eBook, How to Cast-On and Bind-Off Knitting!

Lay thread(s) to be covered on top of knitted background. Bring threaded needle out from back to front at side of thread(s). *Bring needle over thread(s) and insert it close to other side. Bring needle back out a short distance away. Repeat from *.

 

Insert crochet hook into first stitch on needle, as if to knit. Wrap yarn around hook (Figure 1), pull this loop through stitch on needle, and let stitch drop off needle. *Insert hook into next stitch as if to knit, wrap yarn around hook, pull loop through both stitch on needle and first loop on hook (Figure 2), letting stitch drop off needle. Repeat from *.

Make a slipknot on hook. Yarn over hook and draw it through loop of slipknot. Repeat, drawing yarn through the last loop formed.

With smooth, contrasting waste yarn and crochet hook, make a loose chain of about four stitches more than you need to cast on. Cut yarn and pull tail through last chain to secure. With needle, working yarn, and beginning two stitches from last chain worked, pick up and knit one stitch through the back loop of each chain (Figure 1) for desired number of stitches. Work the piece as desired, and when you’re ready to use the cast-on stitches, pull out the crochet chain to expose the live stitches (Figure 2).

*Bring threaded needle out from back to front at lower left edge of knitted stitch to be covered. Working left to right, insert needle at upper right edge of same stitch and bring it back out at lower left edge of adjacent stitch, directly below and in line with insertion point. Repeat from * to form one half of the cross. Then work from right to left in same manner to work other half of cross.

 

D

Bring threaded needle out from back to front at center of a knitted stitch. *Form a short loop and insert needle back where it came out. Keeping loop under needle, bring needle back out in center of next stitch over. Beginning each stitch at the same point on the knitted background, repeat from * for desired number of petals (six shown).

Figure 1.

 

Watch this video that shows this stitch in action:

Check out our expert article, Double Crochet Step By Step.

 

Work cross-stitch as described at left, then bring needle out at base of crossed yarn, over cross, and back in at top of cross, then out again at left side of cross and back in on right side. The double cross-stitch in the sample is worked over four knitted stitches.

 

Horizontal: Bring threaded needle out from back to front at the base of the V of the knitted stitch you want to cover. *Working right to left, pass needle in and out under the stitch in the row above it and back into the base of the same stitch. Bring needle back out at the base of the V of the next stitch to the left. Repeat from *.

Vertical: Beginning at lowest point, work as for horizontal duplicate stitch, ending by bringing the needle back out at the base of the stitch directly above the stitch just worked.

E

See also:

  • Backstitch
  • Blanket Stitch
  • Buttonhole Stitch
  • Chain Stitch
  • Couching Stitch
  • Cross-Stitch
  • Daisy Stitch
  • Double Cross-Stitch
  • Duplicate Stitch
  • Fern Stitch
  • Fly Stitch
  • French Knot
  • Jacobean Couching
  • Running Stitch
  • Satin Stitch
  • Split Chain Stitch
  • Stem Stitch
  • Straight Stitch
  • Woven Web

The circular cast on technique comes from Elizabeth Zimmermann’s Knitter’s Almanac (Dover, 1981).

Make a simple loop of yarn with the short end hanging down (Figure 1). With a crochet hook, *draw a loop through main loop, then draw another loop through this loop (Figure 2). Repeat from * for each stitch to be cast on (Figure 3). After several inches have been worked, pull on the short end (shown by arrow) to tighten the loop and close the circle.

G - H

With yarn in front, sl 1 pwise from left needle to right needle. Pull yarn to back of work over needle until both legs of st in row below are on top of needle (as shown), creating a “double st” on both sides of needle (figure 1).

When working the double-st on subsequent rows, work it as a single st (figure 2).

German short-rows

To graft garter stitch, place live stitches on needles held parallel. Thread tapestry needle with yarn and go through first stitch on front needle as if to purl, then first stitch on back needle as if to purl, leaving both stitches on the needles. *Then go through first stitch on front needle as if to knit and slip it off the needle, go through second stitch as if to purl and leave it on. Go through first stitch on back needle as if to knit and slip it off the needle, go through second stitch as if to purl and leave it on. Rep from * until no stitches remain.

*Yarn over, insert hook in stitch, yarn over and pull a loop through stitch (three loops on hook), yarn over (Figure 1) and draw through all the loops on the hook (Figure 2). Repeat from *.

I

With double-pointed needle, cast on desired number of stitches. *Without turning the needle, slide the stitches to other end of the needle, pull the yarn around the back, and knit the stitches as usual; repeat from * for desired length.

When there are live stitches or picked-up stitches on left needle: With right side facing, cast on number of stitches needed for I-cord (as directed in pattern) onto left needle. *Knit to last I-cord stitch (e.g., if working a two-stitch I-cord as shown, knit one), knit two together through the back loops (Figures 1 and 2), and transfer all stitches from right needle to left needle (Figure 3). Repeat from * until required number of stitches have been bound off.
Every serious knitter knows how to do the I-cord bind-off, and you can too with these free, quick instructions.

 

These instructions are for a 5-stitch I-Cord. Cast on 5 stitches, leaving a 6″ tail. Next row K5, do not turn. *Next row Slip 5 sts back to left needle without twisting them, k1f&b, k4, do not turn. Rep from * until there are 5 more stitches on the right needle than the total number of cast-on stitches desired (and no stitches on the left needle). Place the first 5 stitches on the right needle onto a holder or bind them off, as the pattern indicates.

K1, *slip stitch from right needle to left needle purlwise (Figure 1). Insert right needle purlwise into first stitch on left needle, then knitwise into second stitch to catch front loop of second stitch (Figure 2). Draw front loop of second stitch through first stitch and knit it (Figure 3). Drop both stitches from left needle (Figure 4). Repeat from *.

Learn how to do the Icelandic bind-off knitting method in 4 steps!

When working intarsia, twist the yarns together at the color change to prevent holes. Drop the color you’ve been using to the left of the new color, pick up the new color from under the old color, bring it over the old color, and resume knitting (or purling).

Intarsia Knit Side
Knit Side
Intarsia Purl Side
Purl Side

 

 

Working from the right side of the garment, place the pieces to be seamed on a flat surface, right sides up. Begin at the lower edge and work upward, row by row. Insert a threaded tapestry needle under the horizontal bar in the middle of the edge stitch on one side of the seam, and then under the corresponding bar on the opposite side. Continue alternating from side to side, pulling the yarn in the direction of the seam, not outward toward your body, to prevent the bars from stretching to the front. When the seam is complete, weave the tail end down through the seam allowance for 2″ (5 cm).

Invisible Seam

 

Leaving a tail as for long-tail cast-on, make a slipknot on right needle (counts as the first purl stitch). Insert your left thumb and index finger between two strands, with tail end on thumb side. To create the next knit stitch (Figure 1), bring needle toward you, under front strand, up between strands, over back strand to grab it and pull it under front strand to make loop on needle. To create the next purl stitch (Figures 2 and 3), take needle away from you, over both strands, under both strands, up to grab front strand and pull it under back strand to make loop on needle. Continue alternating knit and purl stitches, ending with a knit stitch. Turn work. Keeping strands crossed to preserve the last cast-on stitch, work 1 row as foll: *p1, k1; rep from * to end.

Tubular Cast on 1

Figure 1

Tubular Cast on 2

Figure 2

Tubular Cast on 3

Figure 3

J

Make long straight stitches on a knitted background parallel to each other and about 1z2″ (1.3 cm) apart. Work another series of straight stitches on top of and at right angles to the previous ones. Then couch the resulting crosses with tiny straight stitches (shown) or small cross-stitches.

 

  1. If the stitch to be bound off is a knit stitch, work a backward yo (bring yarn to the front over the needle; Figure 1.) Knit the next stitch, then insert left needle into yo and lift it over the knit stitch (Figure 2). If the stitch to be bound off is a purl stitch, work a standard yo (Figure 3). Purl the next stitch, then insert left needle into yo and lift it over the purl stitch (Figure 4).
  2. Repeat step 1 for the second stitch to be bound off. Insert left needle from second stitch from tip of right needle and lift it over the next stitch. Repeat step 2 until all stitches have been bound off. As you get into the rhythm of this method, you may prefer to lift the yo and the previous stitch over the next stitch together in a single motion (Figure 5).

Jeny's Surprisingly Stretchy Bind-Off

 

Knitting color stripes in the round can result in jogs at the “seam” line where each new round begins. In Meg Swansen’s Knitting (Interweave, 1999), Meg offers an ingenious technique for eliminating these jogs when working solid-color stripes of two or more rounds.

Work the first stripe (let’s call that color A) for the desired number of rounds, change colors (color B) and knit one round.

Work the first stitch of the second round with color B as follows: Pick up the right side of the stitch in the row below the stitch on the needle (it will be color A), put it on the left needle and knit it together with the first stitch on the needle. You will have worked the first stitch of the round twice, but because you work into the stitch below the one on the needle the second time, you have only worked it for one round and it appears as if it were worked just once.

The jog between the two colors disappears and the beginning of the round for color changes only is shifted one stitch to the left. Note: Do not change the position of markers required for the placement of any shaping decreases or increases (such as ones used for waist shaping).

Continue working as many rounds as you want with color B.

To change to another color, simply repeat the process, working the first stitch of the round a second time by picking up the stitch in the row below the stitch on the needle and knitting it together with the first stitch on the needle, thereby shifting the beginning of the round one more stitch to the left for color changes.

Hold two needles parallel in your right hand, one on top of the other and needle points facing to the left. Leaving a tail long enough to cast on the required number of stitches, drape the yarn over the top needle so the tail is in front and the ball yarn in back (Figure 1).

Cross the yarns so the tail is in the back and the ball yarn in the front, then place the thumb and index finger of your left hand between the two strands so that the tail is over your index finger and the ball yarn is over your thumb (Figure 2). This forms the first stitch on the top needle.

*Pivoting both needles together, bring the bottom needle over the top of the finger yarn, then bring the finger yarn up from below the bottom needle, over the top of this bottom needle, then to the back between the two needles (Figure 3). This forms the first stitch on the bottom needle.

Point the needles downward, bring the bottom needle past the thumb yarn, then bring the thumb yarn between the two needles to the front then over the top needle (Figure 4). There are now two stitches on the top needle.

Repeat from * until you have the desired number of stitches on each needle. Both needles should have the same number of stitches (Figure 5).

Remove both yarn ends from your left hand, rotate the needles like the hands of a clock so that the bottom needle is now on top and both strands of yarn are at the needle tip (Figure 6).

K

Knit into a stitch and leave it on the needle (Figure 1). Knit through the back loop of the same stitch (Figure 2). Slip both stitches off the needle (Figure 3).

K2tog (Figure 1), then transfer the stitch to the left needle without twisting it. Insert the right needle into the second stitch on the left needle (Figure 2) and pass this stitch over the first stitch (Figure 3). Transfer the stitch back to the right needle—2 stitches decreased.
K2P_fig 1 2 3

 

Work as for k2p, but work k3tog instead of k2tog—3 stitches decreased.

—From The Knitter’s Companion Deluxe Edition, by Vicki Square.

 

To begin the Kitchener Stitch:

  1. Bring threaded needle through front stitch as if to purl and leave stitch on needle (Figure 1).
  2. Bring threaded needle through back stitch as if to knit and leave stitch on needle (Figure 2).
  3. Bring threaded needle through first front stitch as if to knit and slip this stitch off needle. Bring threaded needle through next front stitch as if to purl and leave stitch on needle (Figure 3).
  4. Bring threaded needle through first back stitch as if to purl and slip this stitch off needle. Bring needle through next back stitch as if to knit and leave stitch on needle (Figure 4).
  5. Repeat Steps 3 and 4 until no stitches remain on needles.

 

Watch the Kitchener Stitch in action:

  1. Place slipknot on left needle if there are no established stitches. *With right needle, knit into first stitch (or slipknot) on left needle (Figure 1).
  2. …and place new stitch onto left needle (Figure 2). Repeat from *, always knitting into last stitch made.

Knitted Cast On Fig 1

Knitted Cast On Fig 2

Knit one stitch, then slip this knit stitch from the right needle back to the left needle without twisting it (Figure 1). Use the point of the right needle to pass the second stitch on the left needle over the first stitch and off the left needle (Figure 2). This decrease produces a fairly pronounced right-slanting decrease (Figure 3). Use this decrease to mirror a SKP Decrease (a left-slanting decrease).

KSP_glossary-01

L

See Lifted Increase.

 

Pull lp through indicated sp, draw ends through lp. Pull tight.

Learn how to make a lark's head knot.lark's-head-knotB

A lifeline is a strand of yarn that is inserted into the work so that, if an error is encountered, it is easy to rip back to that point. Lifelines are often used in lace knitting. Leave lifelines in your work until the piece is complete.

To insert a lifeline, thread a tapestry needle with smooth, tightly twisted yarn (such as crochet or perle cotton) and insert the tapestry needle purlwise through each stitch on the needle, catching each stitch but going around any markers. Do not remove the stitches from the needle. When working on a circular needle, it is easier to insert the lifeline if the stitches are pushed onto the cable portion of the needle. If you must rip back, use a smaller needle to pick up the stitches from the lifeline thread, and then resume working with your regular needle.

 

Right (RLI)
Insert the tip of the right needle from back to front into the stitch in the row below the next stitch on the left needle and lift this stitch onto the left needle, then knit into it.

Learn how to do the right lifted increase (RLI) in knitting with this step-by-step tutorial!

Right Lifted Increase.

 

Right Purl (RLPI)

Work as for RLI, except purl the stitch in the row directly below the stitch on the left needle.

Left (LLI)

Insert the tip of the left needle from back to front into the stitch two rows below the stitch on the right needle.

Example of the first step in the left lifted increase.

Left Lifted Increase Figure 1.

 

Knit this stitch through the back loop.

Left Lifted Increase figure 2 example.

Left Lifted Increase Figure 2.

 

Left Purl (LLPI)

Work as for LLI, except purl through the back loop of the stitch two rows below the stitch on the right needle.

 

Leaving a long tail (about 1-2″ for each stitch to be cast on), make a slipknot and place on right needle. Place thumb and index finger of left hand between yarn ends so that working yarn is around index finger and tail end is around thumb. Secure ends with your other fingers and hold palm upwards, making a V of yarn (Figure 1). Bring needle up through loop on thumb (Figure 2), grab first strand around index finger with needle, and go back down through loop on thumb (Figure 3). Drop loop off thumb and, placing thumb back in V configuration, tighten resulting stitch on needle (Figure 4).

 

Leaving a long tail (about 1–2″ for each stitch to be cast on), make a slipknot and place it on right needle. Place thumb and index finger of left hand between yarns so that working yarn is around index finger and tail end is around thumb. Secure ends with your other fingers. Spread your thumb and index finger to make a V of yarn (Figure 1). *Beginning at back of index finger, slide needle up through loop on index finger, then bring needle under strand going to thumb (Figure 2), and go back down through index finger loop. Drop loop off index finger and, placing finger back in V configuration, tighten resulting stitch on needle. Repeat from * as needed for desired number of stitches.

 

Right-slanting loop CO (also: Backward-loop CO): *Loop working yarn as shown and place it on needle backward (with right leg of loop in back of needle). Repeat from *.

Left-slanting loop CO: *Loop working yarn as shown and place it on needle so right leg of loop is in front of needle. Repeat from *.

 

M

Left Slant (M1L): With left needle tip, lift strand between needles from front to back (Figure 1). Knit lifted loop through the back (Figure 2).

Right Slant (M1R): With left needle tip, lift strand between needles from back to front ­(Figure 1). Knit lifted loop through the front (Figure 2).

Purl (M1P), (M1LP), (M1RP): For purl versions, work as above, purling lifted loop.

 

  1. With RS of knitting facing, use threaded needle to pick up one bar between first two stitches on one piece (Figure 1).
  2. …then corresponding bar plus the bar above it on other piece (Figure 2).
  3. *Pick up next two bars on first piece, then next two bars on other (Figure 3). Repeat from * to end of seam, finishing by picking up last bar (or pair of bars) at the top of first piece.

Mattress Stitch Fig 1

Mattress Stitch Fig 2

 

O – P

Leaving a long tail (about ½” [1.3 cm] for each stitch to be cast on), make a slipknot (this counts as the first stitch.) Place your thumb and index finger between the yarn ends so that the working yarn is around your index finger and the tail end is around your thumb. Secure the ends with your other fingers and hold your palm upward, making a V of yarn (Figure 1).

*Bring the needle in front of the thumb, under both strands around the thumb, down into the center of the thumb loop, then forward toward you. Now bring the needle over the strand going to the index finger to grab it (Figure 2).

Bring the needle back through the loop on the thumb, turning the thumb slightly to make room for the needle to pass through. (Figure 3)

Drop the loop off the thumb (Figure 4) and, placing the thumb back in the V configuration, tighten up the resulting stitch on the needle.

Repeat from * for the desired number of stitches. Distribute the stitches over your chosen needles and join for working in the round.

Old Norwegian Cast-On

 

Hold pieces to be seamed with right sides together. Working close to the edge, from right to left, *bring threaded needle from back to front through both layers. Repeat from *.

With WS facing and working from right to left, insert right needle under selvedge stitch from farside to nearside, wrap yarn as to purl (Figure 1), and pull loop through (Figure 2).


 

Cut two circles of cardboard, each 1⁄2″ (1.3 cm) larger than desired finished pom-pom width. Cut a small circle out of the center and a small edge out of the side of each circle (Figure 1). Tie a strand of yarn between the circles, hold circles together and wrap with yarn—the more wraps, the thicker the pompom. Knot the tie strand tightly and cut between the circles (Figure 2). Place pom-pom between two smaller cardboard circles held together with a needle, and trim the edges (Figure 3). This technique comes from Nicky Epstein’s Knitted Embellishments, Interweave Press, 1999.

 

Place a loose slipknot on needle held in your right hand. Hold waste yarn next to slipknot and around left thumb; hold working yarn over left index finger. *Bring needle forward under waste yarn, over working yarn, grab a loop of working yarn (Figure 1), then bring needle to the front, over both yarns, and grab a second loop (Figure 2). Repeat from *. When you’re ready to use the cast-on stitches, pick out waste yarn to expose live stitches.


Watch this cast-on in action:

With left needle tip, lift strand between needles, from back to front (Figure 1). Purl lifted loop (Figure 2)
How to work the m1p increase

R – S

See Lifted Increase.

 

Work as regular I-cord, but pull the yarn around the front of the work.

 

Working from left to right, insert the crochet hook into a knit edge stitch, draw up a loop, bring the yarn over the hook, and draw this loop through the first one. *Insert the hook into the next stitch to the right (figure 1), draw up a loop, bring the yarn over the hook again (figure 2), and draw this loop through both loops on the hook; repeat from * until the entire edge has been covered (figure 3). Cut the yarn and secure the last loop by pulling the tail through it.

 

Work closely spaced straight stitches in graduated lengths as desired, entering and exiting in center of or at side of knitted stitches
Satin Stitch Knitting

 

Bind Off Cut the yarn three times the width of the knitting to be bound off, and thread onto a tapestry needle. Working from right to left, *insert tapestry needle purlwise (from right to left) through first two stitches (Figure 1)…and pull the yarn through, then bring needle knitwise (from left to right) through the first stitch (Figure 2), pull the yarn through, and slip this stitch off the knitting needle. Repeat from *.

 

Learn how to do the sewn bind-off stitch the right way with this simple and free knitting stitches guide from Interweave.Learn how to do the sewn bind-off stitch the right way with this simple and free knitting stitches guide from Interweave.

Work to turning point, slip next stitch purlwise (Figure 1), bring the yarn to the front, then slip the same stitch back to the left needle (Figure 2), turn the work around and bring the yarn in position for the next stitch—one stitch has been wrapped and the yarn is correctly positioned to work the next stitch. When you come to a wrapped stitch on a subsequent knit row, hide the wrap by working it together with the wrapped stitch as follows: Insert right needle tip under the wrap from the front; Figure 3), then into the stitch on the needle, and work the stitch and its wrap together as a single stitch.

 

Work to the turning point, slip the next stitch purlwise to the right needle, bring the yarn to the back of the work (Figure 1), return the slipped stitch to the left needle, bring the yarn to the front between the needles (Figure 2), and turn the work so that the knit side is facing—one stitch has been wrapped and the yarn is correctly positioned to knit the next stitch. To hide the wrap on a subsequent purl row, work to the wrapped stitch, use the tip of the right needle to pick up the wrap from the back, place it on the left needle (Figure 3), then purl it together with the wrapped stitch.

Variation on hiding a wrap: When you come to a wrapped purl stitch on a subsequent knit row, hide the wrap by slipping the stitch and wrap together kwise to the right needle (Figure 4). Insert the left needle into stitch and knit them together through back loops.

 

Insert hook in stitch, yarn over and pull a loop through stitch (Figure 1), yarn over and draw through both loops on hook (Figure 2).

Watch this technique in action:

Slip one stitch knitwise (Figure 1), knit the next stitch, and then use the point of the left needle to pass the slipped stitch over the knit stitch and off the right needle (Figure 2). This decrease produces a fairly pronounced left-slanting decrease (Figure 3). Use this decrease to mirror a KSP Decrease (a right-slanting decrease).

 

SKP_glossary-01

Slip 1 stitch knitwise (Figure 1), then ssk (Figure 2). Insert the left needle into the second stitch on the right needle and pass this stitch over the first stitch (Figure 3)—2 stitches decreased.

 

SI1-SSK-PSSO-figure 1 2 3

 

 

Work as for sl 1-ssk-psso, but work sssk instead of ssk—3 stitches decreased.

 

*Insert hook in stitch, yarn over and draw loop through stitch and loop on hook. Repeat from *.

Worked on edge:
Learn how to do the slip stitch crochet (sl st) the right way with these exclusive, how-to knitting instructions for your future projects!

Worked in chain:
Learn how to do the slip stitch crochet (sl st) the right way with these exclusive, how-to knitting instructions for your future projects!

 

 

With right sides together and working one stitch at a time, insert a crochet hook through both thicknesses into the stitch just below the bound off edge, or one stitch in front of the selvedge edge.

Catch the yarn and draw a loop through both thicknesses, then catch the yarn again and draw this loop through the first. This secures the end stitches together.

*Insert the hook into the next stitch, through both thicknesses, then catch and draw a loop back through both thicknesses and through the loop on the crochet hook; repeat from *, keeping the crochet stitches even.

To end, cut the yarn leaving a tail 6–8″ (15–20 cm) long. Pull the tail end through the last stitch on the hook. Thread the tail on a tapestry needle and weave it back through the seam allowance for 2″ (5 cm).

TIP: Slip-stitch crocheted seams are easy to remove if you’ve made a mistake—just pull on the working yarn to ravel. Because it’s so easily removed, it’s ideal for adjusting the placement of matching seams or easing in fullness.

—Vicki Square, from The Knitter’s Companion

 

A slipknot is a knot that tightens up easily once you place it on the needle.

  1. With the tail end of the yarn in your palm, wrap the working yarn around your index and middle fingers, and lay the working yarn across the tail end, forming an X.
  2. Spread your fingers slightly and push the working yarn through your fingers from the back of your hand.
  3. Pull this loop up slightly while holding the tail end of the yarn to form a knot.
  4. Place the loop onto the knitting needle and pull working yarn to adjust the tension.

 

Work as for stem stitch, bringing needle out from back to front at center of a knitted stitch, piercing the working thread with each stitch.

 

Slip two stitches knitwise one at a time (Figure 1). Insert point of left needle into front of two slipped stitches and knit them together through back loops with right needle (Figure 2).

Figure 1.

Figure 2.

For Sssk (Double Decrease): Slip three stitches knitwise one at a time. Insert point of left needle into front of three slipped stitches and knit them together with right needle—three stitches reduced to one.

 

Holding yarn in front, slip two stitches knitwise one at a time onto right needle (Figure 1). Slip them back onto left needle and purl the two stitches together through back loops (Figure 2).

For Sssp (Double Decrease): Holding yarn in front, slip three stitches knitwise one at a time to right needle. Slip them back onto left needle and purl the three stitches together through the back loops—three stitches reduced to one.

 

Slip two stitches knitwise, one at a time, to the right needle (Figure 1). Slip the two stitches back to the left needle with the new orientations, then insert the tip of the right needle from left to right into the backs of these stitches (Figure 2) and slip them to the right needle. Purl the next stitch on the left needle (Figure 3). Insert the tip of the left needle into the two slipped stitches on the right needle and pass them over the purl stitch (Figure 4). Figure 5 shows the completed decrease from the wrong side and Figure 6 shows the decrease from the right side of the work.

SSPP2 Figure 1

Figure 1

SSPP2 Figure 2

Figure 2

SSPP2 Figure 3

Figure 3

SSPP2 Figure 4

Figure 4

SSPP2 Figure 5

Figure 5

Figure 6

From the late nineteenth through the middle twentieth century, masterpieces of stranded color work—Fair Isle sweaters, stockings, and caps—were handknitted with fantastic speed by knitters of the Shetland archipelago in northern Scotland. In addition to their considerable skill and experience, Fair Isle knitters often employed a shortcut that today’s color-work knitters can find just as useful: steeking.

Here’s a tutorial to show you how to work a steek.

 

Bring needle out from back to front at center of a knitted stitch. Insert needle into upper right edge of next stitch to right, then out again at center of stitch below.

 

*Bring threaded needle out from back to front at base of knitted stitch(es) you want to cover. Insert needle at top of stitch(es) you want to cover. Repeat from *.
Straight Stitch

 

This method is similar to the standard bind-off but produces a more elastic edge. Use it when you want to make sure your bind-off isn’t too tight.

K2, *insert the left needle tip into the first stitch (Figure 1) and lift the first stitch over the second, leaving the first stitch on the left needle (Figure 2). Knit the next stitch on the left needle (Figure 3), then slip both stitches off the left needle—2 stitches remain on the right needle. Repeat from the * until no stitches remain on the left needle, then pass the first stitch on the right needle over the second stitch. Fasten off the last stitch.

Each bound-off stitch is slightly more elongated than with a standard bind-off (Figure 4).

Step 1 on how to do the suspended bind-off method in knitting.
/wp-content/uploads/suspended-BO-fig-1.jpg
The third step in completing the suspended bind-off method in knitting!
The fourth and final step in completing the suspended bind-off method in knitting.

T

Cut a piece of cardboard 4″ wide by the desired length of the tassel plus 1″. Wrap yarn to desired thickness around cardboard. Cut a short length of yarn and tie tightly around one end of the wrapped yarn (Figure 1). Cut yarn loops at other end. Cut another piece of yarn and wrap tightly around loops a short distance below top knot to form tassel neck. Knot securely, thread ends onto tapestry needle, and pull to center of tassel (Figure 2). Trim ends.

 

Place stitches to be joined onto two ­separate needles. Hold them with right sides of knitting facing ­together. Insert a third needle into first stitch on each of the other two ­needles and knit them together as one stitch. *Knit next stitch on each needle the same way. Pass first stitch over ­second stitch. Repeat from * until one stitch remains on third needle. Cut yarn and pull tail through last stitch.
Learn everything you need to know about the three needle bind-off method in knitting with these expert, how-to instructions for this bind-off!

 

Wrap yarn around hook two times, insert hook into a stitch, yarn over hook and draw a loop through (four loops on hook; Figure 1), yarn over hook and draw it through two loops (Figure 2), yarn over hook and draw it through the next two loops, yarn over hook and draw it through the remaining two loops (Figure 3). Repeat above for next stitch.


Treble CrochetTreble Crochet

 

  1. Insert tapestry needle purlwise into first knit loop on the knitting needle (Figure 1). Draw through, then wrap around side of fabric (not over needle) to the back.
  2. From the back, insert tapestry needle knitwise into the first purl loop (second loop on knitting needle) and draw it through.
  3. Insert tapestry needle into first knit loop knitwise, slip loop off knitting needle and onto tapestry needle. Insert tapestry needle purlwise into second knit stitch (the second loop now remaining on the knitting needle; Figure 3). Draw yarn through.
  4. Insert tapestry needle into first purl loop purlwise, slip loop off knitting needle onto tapestry needle. Wrap tapestry needle to the back of the work, then insert knitwise into the second purl loop (the second loop now remaining on knitting needle; Figure 4). Draw the yarn through. Repeat Steps 3 and 4.

 

Figure 3.

Figure 4.

Even Number of Stitches
(see below for Odd Number of Stitches)

Even Version 1:
With contrasting waste yarn, cast on half the number of stitches required using the backward-loop method. Cut the waste yarn. With the main color yarn, knit 1 row, purl 1 row, knit 1 row. Next row (WS) P1, bring yarn to back, insert tip of right needle into main-color loop at edge of first main color row (Figure 1). Place this loop on left needle and knit it. *P1, bring yarn to back, insert right needle into main-color loop 3 rows below (Figure 2), place loop on left needle and knit it; rep from * to end. Work in k1, p1 ribbing for several rows before removing waste yarn.

 

Tubular-cast-on-1x1
Figure 1

Tubular-cast-on-1x1
Figure 2

 

Even Version 2 – aka Alternate CO, Italian CO:

Leaving a tail as for long-tail cast-on, make a slipknot on right needle (counts as the first purl stitch). Insert your left thumb and index finger between two strands, with tail end on thumb side. To create the next knit stitch (Figure 1), bring needle toward you, under front strand, up between strands, over back strand to grab it and pull it under front strand to make loop on needle. To create the next purl stitch (Figures 2 and 3), take needle away from you, over both strands, under both strands, up to grab front strand and pull it under back strand to make loop on needle. Continue alternating knit and purl stitches, ending with a knit stitch. Turn work. Keeping strands crossed to preserve the last cast-on stitch, work 1 row as foll: *p1, k1; rep from * to end.

Tubular Cast on 1
Figure 1

Tubular Cast on 2
Figure 2

Tubular Cast on 3
 Figure 3

 

Odd Number of Stitches

Odd Version 1 (beginning and ending with k1)
With contrasting waste yarn and using the backward-loop method, cast on half the number of stitches required plus one (total sts + 1, divided by 2). Cut the waste yarn. With main color yarn work as foll:

  • Row 1 K1, *yo, k1; rep from * to end (Figure 1).
  • Row 2 K1, *sl 1 pwise wyf, k1; rep from * to end (Figure 2).
  • Row 3 *Sl 1 pwise wyf, k1; rep from * to last st, sl 1 pwise wyf.
  • Rep Rows 2 and 3 once more.
  • Next row K1, *p1, k1; rep from * to end. Cont in k1, p1 rib as established, removing waste yarn after a few rows.
tubular-cast-on-1-odd-number
Figure 1

tubular-cast-on-2-odd-number
Figure 2

 

 

Hold two needles parallel. Leaving a 6″ (15 cm) tail in front, bring yarn from front to back between needles. *Wrap working yarn over top of both needles, around front, and under needles to back. Rep from * until number of wraps over top of needle equals half the number of stitches needed. Make sure that you have the same number of wraps on the bottom needle (Figure 1). Work stitches on top needle; stitches should be seated so that right leg is in front (Figure 2). Note that last stitch is anchored only by the tail; be careful not to pull free (Figure 3).

Rotate needles and work stitches on bottom needle (Figures 4 + 5).

 

Cut several lengths of yarn about 2 1/2 times the desired finished cord length. Fold the strands in half to form two equal groups. Anchor the strands at the fold by looping them over a doorknob. Holding one group in each hand, twist each group tightly in a clockwise direction until they begin to kink. Put both groups in one hand, then release them, allowing them to twist around each other counterclockwise. Smooth out the twists so that they are uniform along the length of the cord. Knot the ends.

Twisted Cord Fig 1 and 2

 

V – Y

Work a ribbed band to 2 rows before the bottom of the buttonhole position, ending on a right side row. *With wrong side facing, work number of sts to the buttonhole opening. Join new yarn (shown shaded here in cream), work to end of row, turn. Work to the buttonhole opening, cross the 2 yarn ends (as you would in Fair Isle or intarsia to prevent a hole), work to end of row with original working yarn. Work to the buttonhole opening, cross the 2 yarn ends, work to end of row with new yarn, turn. Work to the buttonhole opening, drop new yarn, pick up other yarn (without crossing yarn ends), work to end of row. Cont in rib working the appropriate number of rows for the buttons you’ve chosen. Work 2 more rows in rib, crossing yarns at buttonhole opening and ending with a right side row. Cut new yarn. With wrong side facing, work to end of row with main yarn and continue to 2 rows before the bottom of next buttonhole, ending on a right side row. Repeat from * for each buttonhole.

Download Working With Two Yarns.

See Short Row.

 

This is a nifty way to work in ends as you knit striped projects, or when you join a new ball of yarn.

Insert the needle tip into the next stitch on the left-hand needle, place the old color over the right needle (Figure 1; old color is dark), knit the stitch with the new color as usual, then lower the old color (Figure 2) and knit the following stitch as usual. Continue in this manner, repeating steps 1 and 2 and then knitting one stitch normally, for about and inch and a half to two inches. Cut the old color, leaving an inch or so of tail. After blocking, you can trim the tails to a half-inch.

Note: This method works best on small-gauge yarns. It tends to elongate the stitches a bit in stockinette, so it’s best used with fingering- through DK-weight yarn.

 

 

With right side of work facing and working one stitch in from the edge, bring threaded needle out from back to front along edge of knitted piece.

Whipstitch fig 1

Make a foundation by working five straight stitches of equal length radiating out from the same point on the knitted background. Weave the needle over and under the straight stitches until they are half covered.

Woven WebWoven Web

Wrap the yarn around the needle from front to back.
Yarn Over Increase

 

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