Knitscene Fall 2008 Ahlstrom Bodice

Gallery: Ahlstrom Bodice by Lou Schiela

Knitscene Fall 2008As you can see, the same sweater looks very different on different women! We give general suggestions for customization for your inspiration. Only you can choose how you want your sweaters to fit and which customizations will work best for you and your beautiful self!

Ahlstrom Bodice

Sample sweater shown measures 34".

 
Knitting Gallery - Ahlstrom Bodice Toni   Knitting Gallery - Ahlstrom Bodice Toni

Toni

Her bust: 33.5"
0.5" positive ease

Size: Here's a case where personal preference comes into play: This is cute as-is on Toni, but to my eyes, it looks a wee bit loose on her. If Toni were up for a smaller size, I'd recommend she try the 30", which would give her 3.5" negative ease and thus skim her curves in a very bodice-like way. Waist: The waist would definitely need to be lower–see how it hits her so high that the nice "flare-at-the-hips" is actually flaring out into space? Yep. That flare needs to be lower so it sits on her actual hips. However, for this particular garment, she should add most of the extra length ABOVE the waist shaping, and not necessarily add too much length below the waist. Why? Well, she wouldn't want the front "point" pointing too low. So: She could add perhaps a half-inch to the lower section below the waist, but add perhaps an inch-and-a-half or more to the section above the waist. This would move the waist indentation to where she needs it to be, keep the flare sitting on her hips, and not lengthen the point too much. Sleeves: Toni mentioned that the sleeves were tight on her athletic upper arms, so she could knit a larger size for the sleeves and adjust the sleeve cap accordingly so it fit the armhole. Toni could also use some added length at the cuff. Neck opening: This seems a bit wide to me on broad-shouldered Toni. She could narrow the front panel on both sides just a bit to bring in the sides of the neck opening.

 
Knitting Gallery - Ahlstrom Bodice Amy   Knitting Gallery - Ahlstrom Bodice Amy

Amy

Her bust: 39"
5" negative ease

Size: Whoo. This fits Amy like a medieval GLOVE. Now the question is: Does Amy like medieval gloves? Maybe, maybe not. I will say that I watched Amy pull this on, and it was a bit of a struggle. So perhaps a bit less negative ease and a larger size would help her feel more comfy (although we all admitted that the top looks GREAT on her, so there you are). Waist: The waist needs to be several inches lower; but as with Toni, you wouldn't want that point getting TOO low. Amy could add maybe an inch below the waist and maybe two inches above the waist to get that shaping into place. Sleeves: The sleeves are a smooth fit and hit right at her wrist bone. Nice. Neck opening: I think it's fine, although if she makes the larger size, I'd want her to do some measuring and comparing with the schematic to check that it would still be fine.

 
Knitting Gallery - Ahlstrom Bodice Kat   Knitting Gallery - Ahlstrom Bodice Kat

Kat

Her bust: 40"
6" negative ease

Size: Even though Kat's measurements are slightly bigger than Amy's, I think this top fits her better than Amy. Why? Well, Kat's ribcage is bigger than Amy's; Amy has larger assets up front. In other words: For Kat, the circumference is more evenly distributed around the entire front and back of the sweater; for Amy, the sweater has to be more generous in one (er, two) particular location(s). This affects things such as armhole fit, where the waist falls, and so on. Waist: Kat needs the waist dropped a bit; in her case, she can also add some length to the front point without worrying too much. Look at the back photo: The little flare is not sitting properly on her hips, so the whole waist/hip shaping needs to be moved down. She could add perhaps an inch and a half to the bottom section, and an inch above, to help put the waist where it belongs. Sleeves: Does she want them short or long? Right now they seem at an odd in between length. Shorten to three-quarters, or lengthen to her wrist, one or the other. Neck opening: Looks good!

 
Knitting Gallery - Ahlstrom Bodice Debbie   Knitting Gallery - Ahlstrom Bodice Debbie

Debbie

Her bust: 34.5"
0.5" negative ease

Size: Can we have a reality check, please? Is there anything that looks bad on Debbie? (The crowd shouts a resounding "NO!") OK, thanks. I was starting to think I was getting a bit loopy looking at all these photos. So: This looks great on Debbie. If she wanted a tighter, more medieval fit, then she could make the smaller size, but she doesn't need it. Waist: I think it hits her exactly where it should hit her. Look at the back photo: It sits on her hips perfectly. You could lower the point just a tad, like a half-inch, but again, maybe not. Sleeves: She has plenty of room in the armholes, and the cuffs fall at a nice location. Neck opening: No problems there.

 
Knitting Gallery - Ahlstrom Bodice Stefanie   Knitting Gallery - Ahlstrom Bodice Stefanie

Stefanie

Her bust: 34"
No ease

Size: I think this is a perfect size for Stefanie. Waist: The waist needs to be lower on Stefanie, but she does not necessarily need extra length below the waist. She could add two inches above the waist, making sure to space out the increases according, and it would be perfect. Sleeves and Neck Opening: Both fine, although maybe the sleeves are a bit short.

 
Knitting Gallery - Ahlstrom Bodice Erin   Knitting Gallery - Ahlstrom Bodice Erin

Erin

Her bust: 38"
4" negative ease

Size: Sometimes we Gallery Gals wonder if we even should show some of these on Erin, because her height makes them look like she is wearing munchkin clothing. Ah well. It's a learning exercise, right? Right. This is obviously a bit tight on Erin, as well as massively too short. The next size up, 38", would be zero ease, and might be a more attractive fit for her. Waist: Erin would have to do some careful measuring and comparing to the schematic to map out where the waist would fall on the larger size. Here, it is almost at her underbust and obviously needs to be much lower. Erin tells me that she always has to add several inches in length to her sweaters, so here, she would want to look at the schematic, figure out where that bottom point falls on the 38", and then measure herself to figure out how much length to add before and after the waist. Sleeves: The larger size would also give her more room in the armholes, and give her bigger sleeves, which would be more comfortable. The sleeves need to be lengthened by several inches. Neck opening: I think on the larger size it would be much better than it is here. Yarn note: Tall people need to buy extra yarn. (Think of it as increased opportunities to browse yarn shops.)

 
Knitting Gallery - Ahlstrom Bodice Sandi   Knitting Gallery - Ahlstrom Bodice Sandi

Sandi

Her bust: 40"
6" negative ease

Size: I know this looks kind of awesome on me (cough, cough), but I wouldn't wear it this tight unless I were going to the Renaissance Faire. In ordinary life, I'd make the 38" size, which would be easier to get on and be much more helpful in the breathing department. Waist: My waist is about an inch lower than the sweater's, which might be fixed by going up a size. Again, I'd check the schematic and see if I needed to adjust here. I would want to add some length below the waist, just because I like it that way. Sleeves: I need longer and larger sleeves, so again, the bigger size would help here also. Neck Opening: I think it's fine, and would measure the next size up to make sure it wasn't too big.

 
Knitting Gallery - Ahlstrom Bodice Bertha    

Bertha

Her bust: 34"
No ease

Size: Bertha, my dear, this is too big on you. You need the next size down. Why does zero ease look too big on Bertha and yet not too big on the other girls? I think it has something to do with Bertha's assets. They are small. Also, Bertha has no arms, and arms help to pull up the top section of a sweater a bit by filling things out at the shoulders. Waist: I think it needs to be higher on Bertha, but the hip flares are in the right place. This means that Bertha's knitter-for-hire would have to work about a half-inch or an inch more between the hip decreases and the upper increases to lengthen that middle section. Sleeves: Let us not rub salt in a tender wound, shall we? Neck opening: Seems a bit too small, even though the sweater overall is too big. Bertha's knitter could widen the color panels, thus setting the sides of the neck opening further apart.

   

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