Jolly Rancher

Author

by Even Howard

Introduction

Jolly Rancher Skirt

I’m so happy to be in Montana where little sheep are running free and being chased by wolves.  No, really! Except instead of wolves it is more like coyotes or mountain lions. The yarn I’ve used for this skirt is certified ‘predator friendly’ meaning that the farm is run with respect for all living things, not just the cute ones. You can read more about it at www.lambandwool.com. It’s certified organic too! I hope you’ll try ordering from them or poke around for a local homespun in your neck of the woods.

I’ve had a bit of culture (and temperature) shock since leaving Japan and I was bemoaning the nippy winds that prevent me from wearing my summer skirt collection during winter.  Cozy yarn to the rescue!  This overskirt is like putting on a sweater, just lower down.  Of a rather chunky weight, it is quick to work up on big hooks and just a little bit delicate with a Kid Silk Haze trim and a nice bell shape.  You can wear it over skirts or pants, depending on how weird you want to look.  Either way, you’ll be warm.  Plus the rhythm of crochet might help you realize where you are and that it is okay (at least it does for me).

Materials List

  • Jolly Rancher SkirtThirteen Mile Yarn (A) 2 skeins at ~110yds/skein. The color is a natural chocolate brown that comes straight off the sheep. This is a ‘chunky’ weight yarn usually used with size 11 knitting needles.
  • 1 ball of Rowan’s Kid Silk Haze (B) in Villian (25g per 229yds). You could substitute another lightweight yarn easily, in either a tonal or contrast color. The gauge isn’t crucial for the trim.  
  • Hook sizes F/5 (4mm), and L/11 (8mm), M (9mm), N (10mm), and P (11.5mm)
  • ¾”- to 2”-wide ribbon or other belting material, long enough to go around your low waist and tie in a friendly bow. The picture shows a 3/4″-wide knit belt that is 56″ long.

Finished Size

Pattern as written has a 36-inch dropped waist that stretches to 42 inches and can be tightened to 32 inches without looking odd.  You can add or remove a pattern repeat to change size 3 inches at a time (details included in pattern).

Gauge

10 stitches = 4in, 10cm; 10 rows = 4in, 10cm in single crochet with yarn A and 8mm hook.

Notes

  • The turning chain does not count as a stitch unless indicated.
  • Be sure to read the pattern all the way through before beginning.

The Pattern

Waistband

With 8mm hook and thick yarn (A), chain 7.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd chain and in each chain across.  Ch 1and turn.

Row 2:   Work  sc in each stitch across. Ch 1 and turn.

Repeat row 2 as follows: Work a total of 72 rows for 33-inch, 80 rows for size 36-inch, and 88 rows for 39-inch. If you would like to make it larger or smaller make sure the total number of rows can be divided evenly by 8. At the same time, on every 6th and 8th row work a button hole row as follows: Sc in each of first 2 sts, ch 2, skip 2 sts, sc in each of last 2 sts.  Ch1 and turn. Work sc across the next row, working 2 sc in the ch-2 space.

After final row, sl st edges together to form a loop and turn right side out (sl st edge goes inside). Turn work to long edge, ch 1 and work one sc stitch per row along one side. The total number of sc must equal your number of rows for the lace pattern to work, so be sure and check!

Skirt body

Round 1: Continuing with 8mm hook, ch1 and sc1 in same space. *Ch3, sk 3 sc, (1dc, ch3, 1dc) in next sc, ch 3, sk 3 sc**, 1sc in next sc*.  Repeat * to *around, ending the last repeat at **.  Ch3, sl st in first sc to join.

Round 2: Ch 4 (counts as a tr). * Skip the first ch-3 space.  Work (1tr, ch3) four times in the next ch-3 space.  Work 1 tr in the same ch-3 space.  Skip next ch-3 space** and tr into sc st*.  Repeat * to * around, ending the last repeat at **. Sl st into top of ch 4 to join.

Round 3: Ch 1 and sc in same space. * Ch 4. Skip next ch-3 space. Sc in next ch-3 space, ch3, sc in next ch-3 space, ch 4, skip next ch-3 space**, sc in  tr st *. Repeat * to * across, ending last repeat at **. Sl st into first sc to join.

Round 4: Ch 3 (counts as dc). * Ch 3, skip ch-4 space. Work (1dc, ch 3, 1dc) in next ch-3 space. Ch 3. Skip ch-4 space.** Dc in next sc *.  Repeat * to * around, ending the last repeat at **. Sl st into top of ch 3 to join.

Repeat rounds 2-4 to continue skirt body. At the same time, on every 5th round, change hook size to 1mm larger, beginning with Round 5. (Round 5 = 9mm hook, Round 10 = 10mm hook, Round 15 = 11mm hook). Skirt as shown is 15 rounds long and ended on a round-3 pattern. Feel free to add more if you like.

Edge detailEdging

Round 1: With size 11mm hook and thick yarn (A), ch 1.  Working only in the chain spaces, work sc around placing 5 sc sts in each ch-4 space and 4 sc sts in each ch-3 space. Skip all sc stitches from the previous row.  Sl st into first sc to join.

Round 2: Ch 1. Working in front loops only, sc in each of first 2 sts, (sc, ch 3, sc) in  next sc (picot made),* sc in each of next 8 sts, make picot in next st **, sc in each of next 4 sts, make picot in next st*.  Repeat around, ending the last repeat at ** and two sts remaining. Sc in each of the last 2 sts and sl st into first sc to close.  Tie off yarn and weave in end.

Round 3:  Change to F hook and join Kid Silk Haze (B).Work 1 sc into the back loop of the  sc below. Continuing in the back loops only, work * Ch 5, sc in next sc * around.  Pass behind picots, skipping the chain stitches and working in the backs of each sc.  Ch 5 and sl st into first sc to join.

Kid Silk Haze detailRound 4:  Sl st up first 3 chains to begin at the middle of the ch-5 space.  Sc in ch-5 space.  *In next ch-5 space, work (1tr, ch 2) 4 times.  Tr once more in same space **.  Sc in next ch-5 space *.  Repeat around, ending last repeat at **.  Sl st into first sc to join.  Tie off and weave in ends.

Round 5:  With size 11.5mm hook, join yarn (A) to remaining back loops of round 2.  Ch 4 (counts as a dc plus 1 ch). * Skip one sc and dc into next sc. Ch 1. *  Repeat * to * around.  Skip last stitch and sl st into 3rd ch of beginning ch 4 to join.

Repeat Round 5 twice more.  Tie off and weave in ends. 

skirt up closeFinishing

Weave ribbon or other belt through the button holes (I used a thin knit belt from an old sweater). Finish ribbon ends by clipping them in a ‘V’ shape so they won’t fray. I didn’t block this skirt, but if you want to, go right ahead! You can wear a slip or an a-line, flared, bias cut, or pencil skirt underneath easily, but please experiment with other shapes and let me know how it goes!

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